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Everything posted by abowers

  1. I have been looking at small table saws, mainly the Dewalt dw745, because my old craftsman 10" is wearing out and becoming dangerous to use. This seems to be the one that gets good reviews, however, I see it does not have the capacity to install a dado as my craftsman did. Doing so few projects, and not really using the dado much, I would tend to use the router if I needed one for rabbets, etc. Would you consider this to be something you could live without. Do you have any other recommendation of a table saw in this price range. Price is my biggest concern at this point, next would be spac
  2. Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I have learned something valuable... everyone has an opinion. Regardless, I have a greater knowledge of who likes what and why. Therefore, I may make a better informed decision. When I started this thread, I really was wanting someone to make the decision for me, however, after much discussion, I can make my own decision based on better information. Thanks all. Aaron
  3. "It really depends on what you build" Most of what I have done since starting any woodworking has been refinishing, mostly replicating and reshaping damaged profiles, however, I have built a few small projects. I have a porter cable 690 and love it, but again some of the applications would really be easier with a table. Based on what you are saying, "the table is the most important," would I be better off with a phenolic rather than High Pressure Laminate.
  4. Wow!! Thanks for all the great tips and advice. Very much appreciated. What about material for plate. Phenolic or Aluminum? Does one have an advantage over the other? Looks like Rockler is aluminum, with the lift option. However, Kreg is phenolic without a lift.
  5. What about t tacks or miter slots? Kreg seems to have both where the Rockler has only t tacks on table and one on very top of the fence.
  6. Thank you Cochese, I did not realize that was an option. Not a bad price either. Does anyone think the table saw like fence on the Kreg has an advantage over the Rockler. Does anyone know if it really does stay truly square to the miter slot? Does the additional micro adjuster work well? I had my heart set on the Rockler, until I reconsidered the Kreg. Now I am at a crossroad. Ugh.
  7. I am in the market for a new router table. I have about $500 to spend so I was wondering, what do you find more important, having a lift or a good fence. The reason I ask is... I am looking at either the Rockler 59870 or the Kreg Precision table. The Rockler incorporates a lift system for the router, however, the ability of the Kreg fence to act as a jointer, plus the 4 1/2 star reviews are swaying me toward that option. BTW, this will be my first "good" router table. Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Aaron
  8. Hi folks, I received a bunch of Rockler gift cards this Christmas, mostly because I was looking for a router table. I was just going to get a basic table, however, If I buy the whole package, I can save about one hundred bucks. Buying the table, stand, fence and lift all in one. How important is a lift? would the one I am looking at be satisfactory? If I don't get a lift, will I regret it and want one later. BTW, this is my first router table other than the 1970 aluminum, not flat, craftsman I had borrowed from a neighbor. This is what I was considering. http://www.rockler.com/r
  9. I'll post picture when I get back to the basement this evening. Thanks.
  10. Hi folks, I am refinishing an old drop leaf table. I began last summer with the pedestal and legs and took off the destroyed veneer top on one leaf. Anyway, I was not able to get back to this project until now. The two other leaf panels are nice and flat and the veneer is good, however, the panel I took the veneer off of is cupped. Is there a way to fix this? I don't have much equipment other than hand power tools and don't really wish to make a new panel. Is it possible to sandwich between plywood or 2x4's? I can see on the back side there are some gaps in between the glued up boards
  11. Okay, now after applying the grain filler, I now know that the photo above is where the veneer wore through, probably water damage.. Guess I have more work to, remove and re veneer.
  12. I started over, two thirds the way done with stripping. Is this a natural part of the wood grain in this photo? When I inherited this table, the finish was really bad, especially over these parts where the grain seems to change direction. Is this natural or a flaw in the wood. Also, What type of wood grain filler do you recommend? Should I continue...?
  13. TKF: I sanded to 180, then stained, next I sanded (220) with the oil varnish mixture to create a slurry to fill the grain. This is where I stand now. Woodsap: The table top was stained when I received it, it was very difficult to remove the old stain from the pores, so I am trying to match it.
  14. I took one with my phone, how do upload it?
  15. Thanks folks, Tkf, I am guessing its cherry, the guy who gave me the table said that's what it was, I often have trouble distinguishing species. It has a wild figure to it so it may not be, I kind of like the figure now after krtwood's comment. Mark has a variation that he uses for grain filling using 1/3 varnish mixture, 1/3 BLO and 1/3 mineral spirits. Then sand with the grain at 220 and wipe across the grain forcing it into the pores. This veneer, whatever it may be, had a lot of little pores, not necessarily an open grain and often changes grain direction. This is more of a
  16. Hello folks, I had purchased Mark's video of his go to finish, and it has worked well until I started my tabletop (flat surface with a cherry veneer). I had used Minwax prestain conditioner (water based) and General Finishes water-based stain. It looked great until I tried the variation of grain filling. Once I started sanding (220 grit) with the 1/3 varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits in the direction of the wood grain and wiped across the grain, it has become very blotchy. Therefore my question is; how can I get an even stain after doing all of this. My thought was to le
  17. All good advice guys, thanks. If I drill a hole does it have to be exactly where the tenon meets the back of the mortise and if so, how do I determine that?
  18. Hi Folks, I just inherited an old drop-leaf table that I am going to repair and refinish, however, I have not had luck in the past of disassembling joints, especially this large, I always end up breaking something. It has a pedestal style legs and they are not dovetailed, so I am assuming they are large mortise and tenon. By some left over squeeze out, I am guessing hyde glue was used. I am removing one leg because it is broken and I will either have to make a jig to glue up or make an entirely new leg. Any advice? Aaron
  19. Thanks all for the replies. Rob Horton, I do have a couple of 7 1/4 circular blades, maybe I will try that first. I have been reading a bit about safety. This saw has no riving blade or guard. Is this okay? I looked at sears website, they have no replacement parts or accessories.
  20. Got it working, Thank you
  21. Hello everyone, My neighbor generously gave me his table saw, never had one before. It is nothing great, just an old 10" Craftsman. I took some time to clean it up a little, however, It does need a new blade. The one that was in it is warped and I would not consider using it. Can anyone recommend a blade that is good for general use. I do have a Rockler around, however, was thinking the big box store also. I don't necessarily want to buy a $200 blade for a $100 saw. Any suggestions for a new user, I am a little afraid of it. Thanks, Aaron