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Everything posted by AndyF

  1. A sheet of plastic sealed as well as possible would be best until you can wall it off permanently. Keep it closed for an hour or two after you stop generating dust. Much of it will settle there and stay out of the rest of the house. I actually went ahead and framed in a wall with an exterior type door and covered it in plastic until I can drywall it. My inspector said I was ok to do so without a permit as long as one side of the wall is uncovered. (your local codes/inspector may differ of course) Be very careful if you have any gas or oil furnace or water heater down there. Keep dust and especially vapors completely away from them. If you have a forced air gas furnace, make sure it's the high efficiency type which draws combustion air from outside. Open a window while working. There are many simple DIY air filters on youtube which work just as well as commercially-built ones. I currently use a simple box fan with a 20x20 pleated furnace filter (high MERV rating) taped on the intake side. It works ok. I hope to install a bathroom or oven exhaust fan for extra ventilation. Wear the best dust mask you can. Use a HEPA filter and bag in the shop vac.
  2. I put a few coats of teak oil on my hickory hiking staff. I don't use it much, but it seems to have worked well.
  3. My basement shop is very similar in size and shape. I have a small 2' x 1' window where your top wall is, but I don't care much about natural light. I built a wall which is the size of the bottom 3/4 of your left wall. (The rest of the wall is concrete foundation wall.) The bottom plate is on foam sil gasket to help keep the bottom plate dry, although it is pressure treated lumber of course. That also helps seal in sound. Right now, the wall covering is a sheet of heavy plastic taped and caulked to seal it up, but I plan to use 5/8" firerock on the shop side of the wall for both fire and noise reduction (thicker and more massive = more sound attenuation). I put an exterior door (I think it's 32") in the wall which is half insulated window. It just opens to the rest of the basement, but it's nice to see in and out without opening it. I think it makes both the basement and the shop feel more open because of being able to see that there's something on the other side. I chose an exterior door to help seal in dust and noise.
  4. Thanks, didn't realize that. I'll check it out too.
  5. Thanks for your ideas everyone. I think I'm going to go to Home Depot and see if I can exchange it for one which doesn't run hot. I'll test it in the store before buying. If the first 1-2 others also run hot, I'll just get the Makita which is also at the same store. The Ridgid does have a nice fine depth adjustment which I hate to give up.
  6. I picked up a new Ridgid compact router. I used it with a 1.5" long flush trimming bit to trim 3/4" thick hard maple edging on six long plywood shelves (about 58" long each). There was rarely more than 1/32" to trim off. After doing one shelf, I noticed that the pilot bearing and bit were too hot to touch. (I tried this because the air blowing out from the bit area seemed extremely hot.) No shopvac was used. I also ran the router without a bit for 1-2 minutes, and that also heated the collet to untouchable degrees F. Other than that, it's a great router. I can still return it to the store and get my money back or exchange it for a Makita compact router. I'm concerned that the heat is going to mess with the bit metal and maybe cause problems with some woods (burning in cherry maybe). Is the heat an issue? Maybe the router will run cooler after more use due to wear reducing friction of tight parts? Edit: One more observation: Running all 6 shelves successively through a 1/4" piloted roundover bit (1/2" collet) in a table-mounted DeWalt plunge router with shopvac resulted in a bit which didn't even seem warm.
  7. Nice jig! I need to build one of these.
  8. The best cheap dust collection is a shop vac with a HEPA filter. Next step up from that is a 2 HP or more unit with a fine particle filter cartridge. In my basement shop, I use the shop vac solution, except on the jointer and planer. For those, I use a 1 HP unit with bags to collect the chips. It doesn't collect dust, rather it recirculates it in the air. A shop vac can't keep up with the chips these machines generate, and they clog easily.
  9. Nice shop and layout! I'm in IT also. How do you like your Grizzly lathe?
  10. Congrats on the new shop and the new kid! I have four kids myself. How are you keeping your garage shop comfortable in the winter?
  11. Good move. It's great that you have the option of declining to join rather than being part of an HOA automatically written into the deed.
  12. The length of the garage might make a big difference at that size. Maybe use the Grizzly Shop Planner or paper cutouts and try both spaces with layouts to see which works best. The "heavily sloped" floor sounds like a problem. Would wood and tools actually slide on tool surfaces? If not, out of level might be workable if it's not blatantly unsafe, or if you plan to move the tools often, cause every tool to need shimming to avoid rocking. How's the garage lighting compared with the basement? Would anything non-woodworking be done or stored in the garage? Do you have kids now or might in the future? My garage is used for car repair, lawn/garden stuff, and storing the kids' vast fleet of bikes and riding toys. It just didn't work well together to have to clean and rearrange everything before and after working in there.
  13. Thanks all! I've been convinced to get a grinder.
  14. I've lived in an HOA neighborhood for about 17 years. I moved 2 years ago. The last one didn't allow sheds. This one allows an exterior building around the size of a two car garage, but everyone just has a regular-sized shed instead. A shop building would seem out of place, take up significant yard space, and would allow more noise to reach the neighbors. My shop is in a section of our unfinished basement. The shop is roughly 20 x 25. I have it sectioned off with a stud wall, exterior door, and plastic stapled and caulked. Once the dust settles in the shop after an hour or so, I have to open the door to allow air circulation. The basement keeps the noise contained to the inside of the house at least. I can barely hear my shop vac running when standing right outside. My previous shop was in the two car attached garage at the old house. Look for a phrase in your HOA document called "summary abatement" as one of the "remedies." It means that the named people, often the HOA and everyone in the neighborhood, has permission to enter your property and "fix" whatever "violation" exists. That could mean towing your vehicle or tearing down and removing your dog house, shop, or the kids' playset. I don't have a walkout basement, but that would be a great feature to avoid the need to carry lumber and large tools through the house. Don't tell my wife, but I put at least a small dent in the drywall near the basement door every time I carry in a board. It is nice to have a space which is already a comfortable temperature and without the humidity from a wet, possibly salty vehicle. The garage at my house is also used for vehicle maintenance and for storing all of the kids' bikes and riding toys. With kids, It just seems too accessible and cluttered to have a shop there. I just might decide to build a shed for the other stuff and then move into the garage sometime though. A finished basement sounds like a nice shop area actually. Just remove any carpeting, and you're set! I have concrete walls with insulation hanging half-way down them. I can't hang anything on the wall unless I build a stud wall there first. Although, I suppose I could do without a few sections of insulation in a few places....
  15. I'm hoping to get into turning soon. Everyone seems to use a grinder to sharpen their turning tools. Is that just a convenience thing, or is there something about turning tools I don't know about? I use a water stone for knives and chisels, and it seems to work ok for me. I assume I could use it to sharpen turning tools also? I plan to start out with a set of Harbor Freight's nicer set of 8 tools for $80.
  16. The only other option I see is to make a change of latitude, or just a more moderate climate. I like how my basement shop is always the right temp all year. Good thing it's cool now, 'cause I need that to cool down after carrying things up and down the stairs.
  17. AndyF

    Tool Advice

    I clamp my dial indicator base to the miter gauge. Clamp high enough that it doesn't drag on the table. Some like to make a wood base for it which runs in the miter slot.
  18. AndyF

    Tool Advice

    That sawing/routing center looks useful. I've never used a router lift, but I don't see much of a need for one. There are routers designed to adjust the bit from above the table. I get by with a plunge router and the spring removed for now. The Bosch 1617EVS has a new fixed base which allows above-table adjustments, and that's what I plan to get.
  19. AndyF

    Tool Advice

    It sounds like your table saw could benefit from more tweaking since you're having a minor issue with rip cuts. Check out Marc's videos on table saw tune ups. Don't assume anything on your saw is square, straight, or aligned until you've proven it to yourself. As mentioned, a planer sounds like it would be a useful tool in order to work with rough lumber and different thicknesses. A router table and fence are very useful also. You might enjoy having a larger 14" bandsaw with a 1/2" blade and a 1.5-2 HP motor to do some resawing.
  20. +1 on the truck with a liftgate Also make sure it's a properly working liftgate and a truck suited to carrying the tools. On one move, I got stuck with a refrigerated (and dripping wet) rental truck with a bent and jerky liftgate!
  21. Milo, remember that your dust collector and lighting will be running at the same time as your tools. Some of the larger cyclone DCs need 30 amps. Add that to your 30 amps for the tool circuit and 15 amps for lighting, and you'll then need at least 80 amps for the subpanel breaker. I wonder if it might be best and cheapest to just install a 100 amp panel and breaker, since those are so common and presumably cheaper?
  22. The Fine Woodworking Tools & Shops issue (Winter 2012) reviewed bandsaw fences and found the Grizzly Resaw Fence Complete (H7587) slightly better than the Kreg.
  23. Even a 1 car garage walled off is going to be larger, so I say the garage. Building a wall isn't really a great dust solution. Some wood dust will escape from the shop area. The items will get dusty just from sitting there and dust normally present anywhere, and guess who will get the blame? Maybe the items need to be somewhere else, in sealed plastic containers, covered with plastic sheeting, or in some type of sealed cabinet or Lexan-front display case?
  24. Looks like good stuff, thanks. The bookshelves look great! Due to the kids, I'm starting to think of the table as somewhat of a worktop rather than a piece of furniture. It just might become one of those things which gets naturally distressed. Thanks, I would've missed that.
  25. LOL! Great idea! Do you suggest lacquer for appearance only, or is there another reason? I'd be ok with just the oil look. The wax is a good idea too. Maybe I'll also make a hardboard cover for those moments when the table is being used under less supervision. I've only worked with cherry, oak, and pine, although I did glue up some maple for my bench end vice. Is there anything about maple which might surprise me when gluing up the large top?