justsomeguy

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About justsomeguy

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    Male
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    planet earth
  • Woodworking Interests
    mostly turning, but other stuff, too.

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  1. It's from an email sent to dealers by the Pony Tools National Sales Manager(Gene Smith) on Thursday.
  2. It was announced via email yesterday. After 113 years the Adjustable Clamp Company (d/b/a Pony Tools Inc.) has made the difficult decision to cease operations on May 19, 2016."
  3. Other states are well on the way to stricter VOC regulation. None are on the same level as CA. Many states in the mid-west and northeast have VOC limits that are higher than CA, but lower than the Feds. It probably won't be nationwide any time soon, but the trend is definitely leaning towards lower VOCs. Keep in mind you don't need nationwide limits, just enough states so that it no longer makes sense for finishing companies to keep making higher VOC products. In my experience, finishing prices are up on both water based and oil based.
  4. If I remember correctly, TransTint used to have complete directions for mixing with oil based finishes. I think you have to mix it with Naphtha first, then the finish. It kind of stuck in my head because I had always used it in water or alcohol and I thought that was strange. I just looked at the directions I got with my most recent batch and it says specifically not to use it with naphtha or mineral spirits. ??
  5. wdwerker's plan sounds right. You'll have to use a light touch with the sanding blocks to keep it from deflecting to much. I would probably support the back side to help prevent deflection. I usually support the back side with my left hand (in a glove) and sand with my right.
  6. I have the Supernova2 (not quite the same as the G3, but similar) and the Talon. I like them both for different reasons. The Talon chuck seems to have more range of grip within each set of jaws. I think this is because the Oneway jaws will extend past the body of the chuck and the Nova jaws won't. On JerrySats comment, most of the Talon and Nova jaws are compatible with the other chuck. I use Nova jaws on my Talon and Talon Jaws on my Nova. The Talon jaws have a limiting pin to keep from extending them too far and you'll have to take it out or grind it down to use them on the Nova chuck. The thing that really drives me nuts is that they chuck keys on the Nova and Talon work the opposite of each other. The Talon closes the jaws when the key is turned clockwise.(This one seems to make sense to me. Righty tighty, etc.) The Nova opens the jaws when the key is turned clockwise.
  7. Don't know how long it will be there, but try this link. Carved.With.Love.The.Genius.of.British.Woodwork.s01e02.Glorious.Grinling.Gibbons http://vimeo.com/62282713
  8. I know I'm probably too late, but the mobile base doesn't just roll under the saw. The mechanism bolts into the bottom of the cabinet. If you assemble the saw first, you'll probably have to turn the saw on it's side or lift it up and work on it from beneath - like working on a creeper under a car.
  9. Things you need for raising panels. 1. 1/2 collet 2. Variable speed 3. Router table 4. Power Power is kind of a sketchy thing. More is better and more powerful routers are generally built more robustly. Keep in mind that no matter what the horsepower rating on the router says, no router running on regular US power (110v, 15a circuit) will ever generate more than 2.2 horsepower. 110v x 15a = 1650 watts = 2.2hp. I would say go look at the big routers you're considering and pick the one that fits your hands best and mounts in a table the easiest. I have and like the DW625 - both freehand and in the table. I've used the P-C 7539 and found it a bit awkward and big when freehand routing. Most of the time I use one of my smaller routers freehand.
  10. Yes. It did happen. The plant was open in June of 2011. They recently moved their distribution center from it's previous location to SC (where the plant is). Maybe that's why Don thinks they've only been open a few months. As far as assembly vs. manufacturing, welcome to the modern economy.
  11. If you want it a precision square, don't get a rosewood square. It is made out of two different materials that move in different ways as temperature changes. It's almost like they are made to go out of square.
  12. It's more than that. A Starrett is square when you buy it. It stays square no matter where you move the head on the blade and it will stay that way for years. I have a Starrett 12" Combo that I got about 15 years ago and I love it. I also have 2 Starrett Double Squares that I inherited from my grandfather. They are more than 60 years old - still square and true.
  13. It lists and accessory kit that includes a rail connector. I'm guessing that is meant to connect 2 or more of the guide rails together, like you do with Festool and others. The specs and basic design look very much like the Scheppach saw that is available at McFeelys. http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/STC-90700/Scheppach-Plunge-Saw-with-Rails Does "Designed in Germany!" mean that the saw they copied was designed by a company in Germany?
  14. It depends on the circumstances. In most cases, you won't be turning it thin enough to do this. If you tunr it too thin and it still has significant moisture, you will almost guarantee that it will split. By rough turning, you are attempting to speed up the process, not eliminate it entirely. As it dries, the bowl will move even if it doesn't split. The extra thickness gives you the room to re-mount it on the lathe and turn it true. I have turned bowls very thin from green wood, but they don't stay round. In fact, they end up wavy edged. I first saw this in Del Stubb's video on Bowl Turning. It makes for some interesting - if not all that useful - bowls. The only wood that I have successfully and repeatedly turned bowls directly from green wood is Bradford Pear. Something about the structure of the wood allows it to release moisture very easily. It flys out of the wood on the lathe due to centrifgual force. It makes everything in the line of fire wet (me, the lathe, the wall, the floor, etc.), but the bowl is dry enough to retain it's shape when I'm done. The sealer will help even out the the drying of the blanks. It's the a good way to balance speed and blank preservation.
  15. The key to drying wood without splitting is not so much the speed of drying - it's the even-ness of the drying. Lumber processors typically work with long sticks that have a large side grain to end grain ratio. End grain loses moisture more quickly than side grain - setting up the stresses in the wood that cause splitting. Woodturners are typically working with small blanks that have a small side grain to end grain ratio. That is why it is difficult to dry without splitting. Moisture flows out of the end grain easily, levaing the blank with a larger moisture content differential between the center and the edges. This makes for more internal stress and more splitting. If you slow down the overal drying process, it eases this problem. Rough turning the bowl can help with this problem because there is more surface area in the side grain to spead drying there and there is less material to stress. There really is no magic bullet here except for patience. Even kiln dried lumber that hasn't split still can have alot of stress. I suspect many of us have experienced a kiln dried board releasing tension when cut.