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About RJsumthn

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 06/19/1990

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  • Location
    Kansas City
  • Woodworking Interests
    Just starting a woodworking business making custom furniture.

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  1. With my experience with the blades I just received I think that it is a good practice to take any new blade to your finest stone to start with and see where that takes you. As with my LV blade the 8000 grit stone was all it took but with the Hock blade I realized I need to take it to a courser grit. Polishing the back can only improve a blade regardless of who manufactured it. If I ever get a LN plane I will do the same thing with that blade. Both manufacturers realize the importance of a flat back and they each have their own way of reaching that. Each process can make the back perfectly flat
  2. I took the Veritas no 7 blade to the 8000 grit stone and started on the back. It was dead flat so I put it in my honing guide and put a micro bevel at about 32 degrees and slightly cambered the blade. I installed it back in the plane and made a few passes and it a dream. When I first got the plane I made a few passes on a board and I had some slight tearout so I went back to that board and it cleared it right up. The Hock blade was a different story. I had to take it down to my coarse diamond plate and work my way up. But once it was done I put it in my old stanley no. 4 I got shaving thin
  3. Derek, I think that is the only time I've heard the LN blades being so much better than the LV. I've always heard they are pretty much the same. Do anyone else have an opinion about this? Also, in the video the Schwarz does hit the back of the blade but he starts at a 1000 grit shapton stone then to the 8000 grit. I'm heading out to the shop now so I'll keep you posted how it goes.
  4. I just went through this myself. I bought a lunchbox planer ($600) which will no most of the hard work for me. Then I have a vintage no. 5 ($25) which I basically turned into a scrub plane for heavy stock removal. I have another vintage no 5 ($30) that I have set up for more delicate work. Then I have a vintage no 4 ($25) which I am about to put install a Hock blade and chip breaker ($65) which essentially makes it as good as LN or LV for 1/4 of the price. I also bought the new Veritas Custom Bench plane no 7 ($370). I went with the Veritas rather than getting a vintage one because a vintage n
  5. Just found the perfect video on this topic by Chris Schwarz.
  6. Graham, the Veritas blade comes with a 30 degree primary bevel. Thanks for the advice. I think I will make a couple passes on the back of the blade with the 8000 grit shapton stone first and see what it looks like at that point. I'll keep you informed as to how it goes
  7. Hello again everyone! It has been a while since I've been on here. Life has been getting in the way of my woodworking recently but I'm slowly getting back into it again. Anyway, so I have splurged a little and I bought a new Veritas Custom Bench Plane. It is a number 7 with a medium handle, wide nob, 45* frog, and PM-V11 blade. I also got a Veritas Large shoulder plane. The planes came in the mail and they are awesome. However these are my first high end planes that I have purchased and was wondering what you guys do to the blade to get it to tuned up perfectly. In the box it comes w
  8. If your store had Irwin clamps they are being replaced with the Bessey's but if your local store has the Jorgensons they will not change out to the Bessey's (at least not yet). If the items are yellow tagged but only discounted a few dollars, come back in a week or 2. When an item goes to clearance it is put on a schedule that will reduce the price very couple weeks until they are sold. Items that are not sold at the end of the schedule are reduced to $0.01 and written off at which point the store either throws the items away or they can be donated to a charity.
  9. You can make some wall art of of your scraps. I plan on doing it at some point.
  10. I had a little bit of time to play with the design some more. I made these changes on the same rendering so each side is different. On this side the only thing I did was inset the arch's 3/4" One these next two, I took it a step farther and inset the arch's and then added a curve to the leg to get it a little more visual interest from the front. I think I like this the best. I might over hang the top if I do this design (not shown in the rendering).
  11. I work for HD on their Reset Execution Team and I can tell you that HD had a "falling out" of sorts with Irwin (I think they got greedy in contract renegotiations). We are seeing all their product being clearanced out over the past 4-5 months. Most of the Irwin clamps are being replaced with Bessey and HDX (Home Depot Exclusive) brands. It sounds like Bessey has signed a contract with HD and they no longer will sell in Lowes. HD also has Jorgensen and it wouldn't surprise me to see them get clearanced out soon.
  12. Tomorrow. Tomorrow. The saw will arrive tomorrow. It was originally supposed to be here yesterday but I had to reschedule the delivery
  13. Beechwood, I would definitely soften the inside edges and I would make the drawer a really snug fit. The top drawer will not be an issue since there is continuous contact with the sides but the bottom drawer is the one that has those jumping points where it might catch. I could modify the curves slightly to get a continuous reference on the with the bottom drawer. Byrdie, thats is a good idea but they are some funky angles that I don't think I could do with a miter gauge. I would probably have to make a custom sled, a mix between a miter sled and tapering jig, to make it. As for the finge
  14. Terry, I like the look of the thicker legs from the front view but I do think that the curved pieces could be thinner (I'll play around with the idea when after I get some sleep) but I need them to be flush with the inside since they will act as drawer guides. Franklin, right now I am leaning towards no overhang. I like the minimalism of having the front all on one plane since there is so much depth on the sides. wtnhighlander, that is a great idea with the magnets. I've been trying to think of ideas for the drawer stops and the only other idea I've had is a small rectangular block sc
  15. That's an idea I hadn't thought of. I'm already planning on using a half lap where the curves intersect. Half Lapping and pegging the ends would be pretty darn strong.