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About RenaissanceWW

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 03/03/1975

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  • Location
    Bel Air, MD
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools, Woodturning, Period furniture styles

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  1. Do you know what your equilibrium moisture content is in your shop? I would imagine LA is pretty low as compare to my 10-12% EMC out here on the east coast. Ash is quite stable but also much more resistant to warping because of the highly ordered ring porous structure. What size are your boards? Can you do any milling like cutting to length and ripping to approx width? This will only speed up the drying process by exposing fresh wood and decreasing the material around soft, nougaty center of a board. And FWIW, I'm not suggesting you get it kiln dried. That's a tough call because kiln ope
  2. I've re-read your original question and I still don't know where our lumber sits right now as far as MC. You mention 15%, if your softwood material at 15% or are you posing a hypothetical? As has been established here many time, wood move...all the time. Even one "dry" it continues to move as the climate changes around it. However you can lesson that movement by kiln drying lumber. Kiln drying, at least in North America, means dropping the wood down to 6-8% and holding it there as the kiln moisture and temperature levels return to ambient. This process actually bakes the wood to some deg
  3. I'm curious Derek, you mention a second rolling of the edge at closer to 10 degrees is "crucial". I've never done this nor ever seen it mentioned so I'm intrigued. Why do you feel this is crucial? Put another way, how does this step change the performance and usage of the scraper?
  4. Jim, first a little semantics. A panel saw by defition is a backless saw between 18 and 24" long. It is intended to be used on already planed boards about 3/4" and under, AKA panels. For rough work and breaking down stock we use the generically termed "hand saw". These are the saws that are 24-28" (and longer) that are toother for rough sawn material and thicker stuff. Currently there are very few manufacturers of actual hand saws. I know many makers looking into it but it is a difficult proposition frought with peril! So regarding the PAX saws, I have hundreds of members who have b
  5. Just be aware that there is a pretty nasty Emerald Ash Borer blight going on right now. Verify when the logs were felled and hopefully it was in the Winter or fall when the sap wasn't rising. Remove the sap wood before stickering it for dry too since this is bug candy. Finally, store the boards vertically for a few days to quickly shed the free water. This can drop your moisture content 20-30% in a few days. Then sticker it, band it, and let it sit for a few months. Also recognize that right now there is not a lot of drying going on because the air is so cold that its not sucking up
  6. If I'm understanding your question correctly, you are not asking about which tools to get but which "appliances" are helpful. Like as had been said above, a lot of this depends on the work you do. But assuming general furniture work and since you already mentioned a workbench I would start with a saw bench. Actually I would built a sawbench before I even build a workbench. Don't obssess over the workbench too much at first as that can be improvised easily with some saw horses and a few planks. I built a dining table recently up at my in-laws house in Maine and had nothing but a ricket
  7. I used Masterpiece on a Shaker Pedestal table I built in The Hand Tool School. It is a very simple finish to apply but it is labor intensive when compared to an oil/varnish finish or a shellac finish. But it does give you a really warm, close to the wood look. As far as durability I can only say that more than a year later my table still looks like it did when I had just applied the finish. But the table is also not a heavy use thing and it plays host to a large fern right now. I have spoken with Charles Brock about this on many ocassions and he has much longer term experience with the fi
  8. I've lost count of the number of drawbored joints I've put together, but I do remember how many times I've needed a drawbore pin: 0. I've never understood why these exist. I've heard some say it helps start the deformation of the hole through the tenon but I just drill the offset and drive in the peg. Never had a need to "test draw" the joint. Am I missing something here? Anybody used these pins and have a solid reason why they are needed? Oh and I've used both the Veritas and LN plate (and a blacksmith made metal plate) and they all produce nice pegs. The Veritas is innovative and a
  9. I'm sure he means a bed extension. I have one for my Jet mini lathe and have used it many times to turn table legs. In my Queen Anne side table build you will see me use the bed extension to turn "low style" cabriole legs which does involve offset turning. It is a bit daunting but nothing that can't be cured by turning 3 or 4 practice legs first. For higher style cabriole legs, I've seen many people turn just the bottom of the pad foot first then the shape is sawn and shaped by other means. In this instance it is just a matter of chucking up the square blank on center and turning the
  10. The BEST thing you can do to assess a sawing problem is to film yourself making a cut. Take 30 seconds or so of footage from profile and from straight on. You will quickly see any body mechanic issues that would throw a saw off its line. Correct me if I'm wrong but you are talking about making the tenon cuts here right? The flipping the board techniques is something I do for actual rip cuts to dimension a board so that advice is not applicable here. I do cut tenons from both sides of the board just because it is the only way to see your lines but I'm not flipping until I hit the far c
  11. my tip on Zebrawood? Wear a respirator. Not because of the dust (though thats important) but because of the damp and dirty sweat socks smell.
  12. My shop would eat a Roomba alive. BTW, did you know these mats wear out after a while. I had a really nice one I bought at Craft Suppliers in front of my bench. It was a huge 36x60" size. I loved it and in the last year have been feeling that cement weary feeling again. This was odd because I've actually lost quite a bit of weight and gotten in better shape (something I blamed the pain on before). So I broke down and bought a new matt, same one, thinking I could alway use another one somewhere else in the shop. It is a night and day difference and it occured to me, why wouldn't they wea
  13. Maybe this will come as a surprise to some but hopefully not as I haven't exactly been quite about my views on the subject. I was so glad to read this post because all we seem to hear about is people like me going the other ways (powered to hand-powered). I know a lot of people who have jumped into the hand tool world with both feet who end up either regretting it in the worst case, or getting frustrated. Its hard work and definitely isn't for everybody. Its not a skill thing because we all can learn that part, but rather a very personal thing. Call it journey vs destination in the simple
  14. I've found you can build just about anything with the following Jack plane Rip hand saw 26"+ Carcass saw Brace and 1/4 and 3/8 bits 1/4, 3/8, 1 or 1.5" chisel Coping or turning saw Spokeshave and/or a cabinetmakers rasp Square, dividers, compass, bevel gauge, marking knife Sharpening kit If you want to get fancy, throw in a router plane and a skewed rabbet plane and you're golden
  15. The real question is why do they make chisels narrower than 1.5-2"??? Don't answer that only a joke.