Vic

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About Vic

  • Rank
    Master Poster

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.tumblewood.blogspot.com/
  • Yahoo
    tumblewoodworks@yahoo.com
  • Twitter
    @Tumblewood

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pasco, WA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Design (mostly contemporary), Hybrid woodworking. I've mostly been building the shop!

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  1. Hey guys. Mel told me about this thread. My Roubo is 10' long. The base is 6' and the top is 3" thick old growth Fir. I do tend to use every bit of it. My length was dictated by my space a bit, but mostly by my material. I could easily use another 2 - 4'. Also, no sag. It's rock solid. Good luck with your build!! Enjoy the new bench.
  2. Hey guys, A buddy of mine that lives in the San Diego area is looking for someone to build a "modern" sliding door between his master bedroom and bath. He is not looking for a solid wood door, so mdf would probably suffice for the design and build. Please shoot me an email, if you're interested and I'll get you connected. Regards, Vic sylvicetal@msn.com
  3. Thanks, Tim! When the chatroom changed, it became difficult for me to easily backread the chat. Bummer, huh? Tell all the guys I say hello. I'm friends with several on Facebook.
  4. Tim, I've just I've just been busy. I'm active the most on Facebook. You can always find me there.
  5. Sorry for the typos. using this little DiNovia and not checking as I go.
  6. I looked up the spec sheet on that. It is a normal ballast factor ballast ballast. I drive the lumens at .87 of the rated lumens. I think a high ballast factor would be better, but that should do. Where are you buying your fixtures? Are they a package deal or? make sure the lamp is am 800 series. like F32/850...as opposed to F32/735. the 8 and 7 signify the color rendering index of 80s and 70s, respectively. The 50 and 35 or the Kelvin temps 5000 and 3500, respectively.
  7. wtnhighlander, my day job would be the guy you deal with for incentives at the local utility. I develop energy projects in the industrial commercial and agriculture sectors. That's how I've learned about this stuff. Yes, in an industrial setting the O&M savings are huge. The saving in cold storage is also huge, due to much less heat for the same light output. My payback numbers are average for specifically tube replacement in a small commercial project, which would equate well to a shop and at our local energy rate of $0.0731/kWh. Pug, ballasts for high performance T8s come in low,
  8. Hey Pug! Paul-Marcel said you wanted a little advice. For simple cost effectiveness, T-8s are still the best buy. My recommendation for 5000 Kelvin temperature has to do with scotopics. Basically, you see better in a whiter light at lower light levels. It is mostly a personal preference, but one I see employed regularly in shop/production type facilities. I still have 4100 Kelvin lamps, but will change when I finally can afford to go to LED tubes. At the rate they are coming down in price, that will probably be within two years. It's wild that two years ago the simple payback going from
  9. Tom, that was up in the Tollgate area. From the Tri-Cities, up into the Blues. Do you remember where Spout Springs is located? It was near there.
  10. But a very rewarding one! I'm looking forward to snow still and snow shoeing. Here's some shots from our last trip out. Shelby got attacked by an Akita shortly after this while walking in the back forty of our house. It cut the season short. She's all healed up now and ready to go! http://www.flickr.com/photos/tumblewoodcreations/sets/72157632372070194/
  11. I hope you enjoyed Turkey Day at the cabin, Bobby!!
  12. I used the PVA glue trick last year on this piece. The wood was walnut on a plywood substrate. Worked like a champ and has held in place with no problems. Be willing to experiment. There are a lot of differing opinions out there. Google can usually lend you different sides to just about anything. Here's a video I found for you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxUKc4JWBaI
  13. Bobby, and all. Aside from slight efficiency gains with design, a watt is a watt is a watt. Regular electric heating is simple resistance. There is no great gain of one unit that has a 1500 watt rating over any other unit with the same wattage. The only time you get more energy out for that watt is with the use of a refrigerant system (heatpump). The most important thing is to air seal and insulate the envelope. The larger the cumulative hole in your envelope the more expensive it is to heat or cool.
  14. R410 really loves water. It's imperative that the unions are all done perfectly to torque settings and a deep vacuum is performed.
  15. Freddie, I have Mitsubishi in both my shop and house. I have a multi head unit in the house and a single 2 ton in the shop. Daikin and Fujistu are both also very good units that have a solid track record. I believe Daikin recently introduced a unit that you can control from a smart phone, which is cool. I'm a huge fan of the Nest thermostat, which doesn't currently play with split systems.