Vic

Mentors
  • Posts

    2354
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Vic

  1. Hey guys. Mel told me about this thread. My Roubo is 10' long. The base is 6' and the top is 3" thick old growth Fir. I do tend to use every bit of it. My length was dictated by my space a bit, but mostly by my material. I could easily use another 2 - 4'. Also, no sag. It's rock solid. Good luck with your build!! Enjoy the new bench.
  2. Hey guys, A buddy of mine that lives in the San Diego area is looking for someone to build a "modern" sliding door between his master bedroom and bath. He is not looking for a solid wood door, so mdf would probably suffice for the design and build. Please shoot me an email, if you're interested and I'll get you connected. Regards, Vic sylvicetal@msn.com
  3. Thanks, Tim! When the chatroom changed, it became difficult for me to easily backread the chat. Bummer, huh? Tell all the guys I say hello. I'm friends with several on Facebook.
  4. Tim, I've just I've just been busy. I'm active the most on Facebook. You can always find me there.
  5. Sorry for the typos. using this little DiNovia and not checking as I go.
  6. I looked up the spec sheet on that. It is a normal ballast factor ballast ballast. I drive the lumens at .87 of the rated lumens. I think a high ballast factor would be better, but that should do. Where are you buying your fixtures? Are they a package deal or? make sure the lamp is am 800 series. like F32/850...as opposed to F32/735. the 8 and 7 signify the color rendering index of 80s and 70s, respectively. The 50 and 35 or the Kelvin temps 5000 and 3500, respectively.
  7. wtnhighlander, my day job would be the guy you deal with for incentives at the local utility. I develop energy projects in the industrial commercial and agriculture sectors. That's how I've learned about this stuff. Yes, in an industrial setting the O&M savings are huge. The saving in cold storage is also huge, due to much less heat for the same light output. My payback numbers are average for specifically tube replacement in a small commercial project, which would equate well to a shop and at our local energy rate of $0.0731/kWh. Pug, ballasts for high performance T8s come in low, normal and high output. It is commonly denoted as L, N, and H.For Sylvania you?ll see ISL, ISN< ISH, GE use Max-L, Max-N, Max-H. The easiest thing is to check the specification sheet. Looks for Ballast Factor. Low is approx. .77, Normal - .9 and High - 1.15. It determines how may lumens it pushes for the lamps. A typical T8 lamp produces 3100 lumens. combine that with a high ballast factor ballast and you get 3100 x 1.15 = 3565 lumens. it also draws more power, but not a problem if you want the light. If you plan on using occupancy sensors, be sure to use program start ballasts. In a couple years, tubular LED will be at a point you will not need to learn how to read LM-79 and LM-80 test sheets, but for now there is still a lot of inferior product on the market and you should consult an expert to make sure you're getting a quality product that will last the stated life expectancy. Pug, if you're on Facebook, look me up. PM me a photo of what you'd like to buy and I'll let you know if it is a decent product. Otherwise, look it up on the CEE for T8s. If you want to go with LED, then look those up on the Design Lights Consortium website. http://www.designlights.org/qpl I apologize if the hotlinks don't come throuh. I'm typing on my DiNovia keyboard for our entertainment center PC.
  8. Hey Pug! Paul-Marcel said you wanted a little advice. For simple cost effectiveness, T-8s are still the best buy. My recommendation for 5000 Kelvin temperature has to do with scotopics. Basically, you see better in a whiter light at lower light levels. It is mostly a personal preference, but one I see employed regularly in shop/production type facilities. I still have 4100 Kelvin lamps, but will change when I finally can afford to go to LED tubes. At the rate they are coming down in price, that will probably be within two years. It's wild that two years ago the simple payback going from T12 to the LED tubes were 35 years and now they are about 5 years. The only software I'm aware of that is free is also far from user friendly. You have to know a lot about lighting to fill it out. As far as spacing, mostly think in terms of shadows. If you read the article I did for Marc, you know my ceiling height is 10 feet and I have my 4 lamp, 4 foot fixtures set at the ceiling at 10 foot on center. For a narrow and long space such as yours, I would use the reflective properties of the wall (use white or a light color) and space 2 lamp fixtures 1 1/2 to 2 feet in at each end and along the length on each side. You can probably get buy with a total of 6 fixtures. I'd split that into two circuits, if it's convenient, front and back. These are "back of the napkin" layouts, but should give you good enough light. With these type of fixtures, it is easy enough to add to a circuit with a little conduit and wire, also. I would go with a high ballast factor to drive the lumens at their maximum. I believe I referenced a site that lists "approved" fixtures in the article for Marc. I would definitely buy something that is on that very expansive list. Sounds like you should have a very comfortable shop. Enjoy!
  9. Tom, that was up in the Tollgate area. From the Tri-Cities, up into the Blues. Do you remember where Spout Springs is located? It was near there.
  10. But a very rewarding one! I'm looking forward to snow still and snow shoeing. Here's some shots from our last trip out. Shelby got attacked by an Akita shortly after this while walking in the back forty of our house. It cut the season short. She's all healed up now and ready to go! http://www.flickr.com/photos/tumblewoodcreations/sets/72157632372070194/
  11. I hope you enjoyed Turkey Day at the cabin, Bobby!!
  12. I used the PVA glue trick last year on this piece. The wood was walnut on a plywood substrate. Worked like a champ and has held in place with no problems. Be willing to experiment. There are a lot of differing opinions out there. Google can usually lend you different sides to just about anything. Here's a video I found for you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxUKc4JWBaI
  13. Bobby, and all. Aside from slight efficiency gains with design, a watt is a watt is a watt. Regular electric heating is simple resistance. There is no great gain of one unit that has a 1500 watt rating over any other unit with the same wattage. The only time you get more energy out for that watt is with the use of a refrigerant system (heatpump). The most important thing is to air seal and insulate the envelope. The larger the cumulative hole in your envelope the more expensive it is to heat or cool.
  14. R410 really loves water. It's imperative that the unions are all done perfectly to torque settings and a deep vacuum is performed.
  15. Freddie, I have Mitsubishi in both my shop and house. I have a multi head unit in the house and a single 2 ton in the shop. Daikin and Fujistu are both also very good units that have a solid track record. I believe Daikin recently introduced a unit that you can control from a smart phone, which is cool. I'm a huge fan of the Nest thermostat, which doesn't currently play with split systems.
  16. Mark, For everyone's general info, ductless heatpumps come in wide ranges of efficiency. My unit will keep up very well into the single digits. Below that, I start losing efficiency. I've yet to have to employ my 95+% efficient LP gas furnace. I'm hoping it won't be long before the models sold in Scandinavian countries make it to the US market. They will heat down to 17 below 0 F. Pretty impressive!
  17. Vic

    Osage Orange

    I haven't had any problem with 3/4" blades on this. I rarely actually put a smaller blade on. I'd like to get a bigger table, but will probably continue to resaw with this, since the depth of cut is perfect and not necessary to me for a larger table. I want the larger table for more diversity with curves and I'd put a smaller blade on a saw that was mostly for curves. I get really good cut quality and rarely need to do much, if anything, on my drum sander to clean up the cut.
  18. Vic

    Osage Orange

    Are you asking about the Resaw or Timberwolf? The first Resaw King I had was defective. It had a drift that I was incapable of correcting. My replacement has no drift once I got it set up correctly. I use extremely low tension on the Timberwolf type blades, but the Resaw King is cranked down when in use.
  19. Vic

    Osage Orange

    I used Osage Orange on my bench and did a lot of the cuts on my bandsaw, which I believe is the same as yours. 10-325 Deluxe Rikon. 12" resaw cap, right? While I now have a 3/4" Resaw King, I still use my Timberwolf blades most of the time. The one I used had no problem.
  20. My situation may be different, but my grass does OK with occasional vehicle driven on it. I backed a rental truck with a lift gate into position when I brought home my 12" jointer that weighs in at 1000lbs. When I moved stuff from my garage to the shop when I originally opened the shop to equipment, I used two 3/4" plywood sheets and just wheeled everything over. Lifting them was a bugger, but myself and a buddy managed it all.
  21. Vic

    E Cigarettes

    You can get a good quality refillable unit and all the accessories at your local tobacco, or in the case of WA, head shop. Each is a bit different. My EGO-T works well. You have to periodically replace the reservoir because the vaporizors will sooner or later lose their effectiveness. Other models can be broken down even further. They, of course, cost more. I have found I only like Red Bull or Tobacco. Even though I smoked a pack a day, I went straight to the 12mg e-juice and will step down to the next level in a couple more bottles, until I'm at 0mgs. Good luck to everyone! Try not to have this become the habit. It's better than smoking, but still not really good for you.
  22. Vic

    E Cigarettes

    Just think of the money to buy tools and lumber!
  23. Vic

    E Cigarettes

    Eric, go get an e-cig. I heard that even Costco has starter kits. Theirs were kinda spendy (in comparison to my refillable). $80, I think. Either way, it's cheaper than cigarettes, especially if you can get it all behind you. Keep it on you. You can smoke them everywhere. I've been confronted about "smoking" a couple times, but just explain that it's just basically "steam". I show them how it works and they can smell it doesn't stink. Some don't seem to have ANY smell. The Red Bull I use has a slight sweetness to the smell, but dissipates extremely fast.
  24. Vic

    E Cigarettes

    Congrats to Don and Andy. I quit smoking on Labor Day - Sept 2, 2013. I'm 50 and have smoked mostly about a pack a day since I was about 12 or 13. Of course, I stole cigarettes at that age, so didn't smoke nearly as much. Out of all the drugs I've done in my life, the smoking was the big problem to quit. I honestly don't think that tobacco alone is nearly as bad as what the cigarette companies put out. I went through about 3 days of withdrawal that can be likened to having the flu and being heavily dosed with Benadryl. It is my contention most of the withdrawal is from all the other chemicals that are infused in a cigarette to make them more addictive buy the cigarette companies. To keep myself from breaking down and buying a pack of smoke, I was originally buying either Swisher Sweet's version of their disposable e-cig or NJoy disposables. Those were helpful in that they have the look and feel of a real cigarette. The tip lights up, the filter is soft, etc. The problem with them is the QA is horrible. One would last a while, the next hardly at all. I have since switched to EGO-T e-Cig. This is a refillable nicotine delivery device. I get my e-liquid (the drug) from a local head shop. Remember, I'm in Washington state. So, the big thing is use these to quit. Don't switch up one habit for another. E-liquid is a BIG wildcard. The best seem to have very few ingredients. Basically, nicotine, food flavoring, and the liquid chemical to dilute those first two and transport via vapor. The worst have more nasty crap. Either way, the list of chemicals is smaller than what you get when you smoke a regular cigarette. Start using the smallest mg of e-liquid that keeps you from buying a pack of smokes. Then work your way down to the 0mg e-liquid. These guys are not any better than the cigarette companies. In the long run, they may prove to be worse. It is obvious, with all the flavors, they are targeting kids. Just for reference, since you may not be able to find the same product, I'm currently using Fumi Ejuice. I like "Red Bull" the best, as it isn't a strong taste. Keep up the good work. By the way, I was into being smoke free for right about a month before I stopped being a total space case. Luckily, I didn't lose my job in the meantime. That was always one reason I would give up and go back. This time I was prepared to lose my job, if that's what it took.
  25. I have several of them. LOVE them!! Yaksouth, you said a version for narrow stock would be handy. I've used mine to cut 1/8" stock on the tablesaw. Do you need narrower than that? I've also sacrificed the pad on occasion to cut other stuff. I love using it in conjunction with my tablesaw sled for odd angle. I just mark them out and hold the work piece on the sled and push through the blade. Works great, and very safe.