Jason Glover

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Everything posted by Jason Glover

  1. Fastcap solution looks perfect, will report back. Funny, using their vac remote...but never thought to look for this. Thanks everyone!
  2. i pride myself in my google skills...but i am having the worst time finding a solution to a really minor cosmetic issue...who better to ask than our board? i have 2 dust collectors in the attic space above my shop - resting on a platform i have on the rafters. one is auto-start (festool), one is on a remote (fastcap) it works like a charm, and i have personal reasons for getting the vac off the shop floor. i cut a nice hole in the sheetrock ceiling, and run the hose right through it, along with the plug. the outlet is on the ceiling. every time i pull the hose, a minor snowstorm of sheetrock dust sprinkles down...i want some type of grommet or bushing that is functional and more visually appealing than this hole i cut out... the plastic grommets that i found for cable management (typically seen in a cubicle or desk) don't work, since the visible side is upside down, and would slide right out. does anyone know of any piece or part that could make this look intentional and well done? i have explored lee valley, central vacuum parts, and amazon supply...nothing seems to make sense. diameter is ~ 2" thx, jason jeez, i must sound pretty anal about the shop appearance!
  3. I made some of these: http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/404/stackingsawhorses.pdf and mildly adjusted the height to where 2 stacked exactly matched my worktable height (MFT/3) . pretty easy to make, easy to stack, and hold a ton (stacked or unstacked). i like the optionality to work on a lower height (~18") for some projects too. lastly, the shelf on the bottom is handy too. somewhere in the middle of the project though, i found myself saying - why don't you just buy sawhorses like a normal *$@ person!
  4. Follow up - i continue to collect long, narrow, sloping strips from ripping these white oak boards. (building a table, so there are a lot) There are other cutoffs too, and i went through approximately 50% of them practicing with my brand new Domino. Better to learn on scrap than my project. Meanwhile, i did use a couple of pieces of the 'sloping' strips to make the table legs level (ahem, squaring issue somewhere along the way)....it's a trestle type table, so important to have the tops of the trestles level. Thanks again for all the advice. I might even get the stones to post this project to the forum...
  5. There are great suggestions. Stickers, spacers, probably the best ideas...but of course my fave response is "the more expensive the better the fire ". Actually got me out loud. I don't believe the strips would work as edge banding, since they are wavy, rough cut, and differently thick or sloped. I could use the really thin ones to laminate a bow....but then i'd never finish this table... Thanks, maybe i'll keep 2 or 3 of the best and burn the rest.
  6. I recently cut some 4/4 white oak to a uniform width and am left with a number of really long, thin strips (cutoffs), different thicknesses, say 1/4 to 3/4 wide, 6-10ft long. I can't bring myself to throw them out... I could use them in my garden, as tomato stakes, surely...but...any other ideas? For some reason it feels like a crime to just let them go.
  7. good guide i have bookmarked: http://www.ornamentalist.net/2010/12/ebony-limed-oak-step-by-step.html obviously you can ignore the ebony stain part....
  8. Josh - I've noticed osage making appearances in some of the more "haute wood furniture" stores I have been in...(yes there is such a thing, just look at the prices) Here's a couple of interesting pieces in osage orange: http://www.bddw.com/furniture/storage/lake_midcred.html http://www.bddw.com/furniture/table/lake_wallt7.html Should be interesting what you can turn out...good luck.
  9. I searched the site, and maybe nobody has ever discussed this...maybe because it is just too easy of a project...but my wife asked me for a pair of chopsticks. She's never said "make this for me", so I want to oblige. I have some scrap cocobolo, with some great swirls and i think it will look great. it's also a heavy, hard wood, and should have a nice hand-feel. My question is really about safety, since the cocobolo has (i've read) urushiol in it. As i read it, it seems the issue would be with inhaling the fine dust with this skin irritant in it, into the lungs. Does anyone think that turning cocobolo into chopsticks, finishing with salad bowl finish, would present any irritation risks to the end-user?
  10. Thanks for all the advice. I have personal reasons for not getting a table saw: in short, i have a special son who absolutely loves being in the shop for me, but doesn't speak / communicate / understand almost anything. He also has no regard for safety / danger, and therefore, the thought of an open-bladed table saw frightens me greatly. That TS55 is not only extremely well guarded, but also stops almost instantly when you release the trigger. And so, for now, I have generally made due with the track saw. That said, I do believe the double sided tape may be the best method presented here. Is there a brand you guys generally recommend? If anyone else comes up with something additional, feel free!
  11. New to the forum, kinda new to the hobby too. I tell people who ask, I have more money than time, and more time than talent. So, now that you are warned, I find of course that for every project I work on, I learn a ton, but also a ton of questions spring up. And since I have no one to ask... First assume that I only have a Festool TS 55 track saw and MFT/3. I do NOT have a table saw. One specific question about an issue that I keep running into: how do I rip small or narrow stock? Specifically cuts that are longer than would work on my mitre saw, and narrower wood than the Festool guide rail. Take a 24" long piece of exotic wood that is only 3" wide (and say 1/4" thick)...the issues are, the rubber no slip grip on the underside of the guide rail doesn't touch the stock, and there is no way to clamp the stock down without blocking the saw from cutting. Lastly, the guide rail then becomes wobbly. I have solved this by using similar thickness wood, but it still doesn't solve my issue. Btw, have a laugh at my expense, i once tried to solve the issue using the "low profile" side clamps, which pins the stock tightly using HORIZONTAL force on each side. Apparently saws don't like this binding effect. So, with only these tools, how can i safely stabilize this piece and rip it down the middle? Obviously the example stock piece i gave isn't the only time i've had this issue.