• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools
  1. I took the advice of the Schwarz and decided to try one premium chisel in 1/2" size. I liked it enough that I added almost all the chisels in the set over time as needed. In my case, I bought a LN 1/2" and a LV 1/4" PMV-11. The LN one because I like the balance of the socket chisel but the LV's are nice and the steel is definitely more resilient and stay sharper longer. My most used chisels correspond to my most used joinery tasks, mortise and tenon. So I use the 1/4", 3/8", and 3/4" the most.
  2. I've wanted to build this chest for a while. I think it was at least a couple years ago that Pekovich did this build.
  3. You can't go wrong with the tenon. Although I got the saw filed hybrid, when I have to resharpen I will file it dedicated rip. I got it hybrid filed because I wanted to use it as a general saw for the time being. If that interests you, keep the hybrid filing option in mind.
  4. I was in a very similar situation when I got my first Bad Axe. I went with a hybrid filed 16 inch tenon. This saw, if I'm not mistaken, is referred to as the Jack plane of saws. It can obviously cut deep tenons, but it can be easily used as a carcass saw with your bench hooks. I eventually bought a dedicated carcass saw. Not because the tenon saw was bad, but because I got a saw problem lol. If the tenon saw seems too large for your current workflow, consider the hybrid tenon/dovetail saw as well. Best of luck.
  5. I don't think you will hear anything bad about bad axe saws other than the price, perhaps. They are something to behold. I have the 16 in tenon saw hybrid filed and it cross cuts well. I also have a carcass saw being built right now. If your looking for a cheaper option, I can recommend the Lie Nielsen dovetail saw. It's about a third of the price, will do small tenons, and is fine enough to do some light cross cutting. It's rip filed but with a light hand you can still cross cut. These saws have great resale value if you ever decide to upgrade. That is going to be my path. I will more than l
  6. I built one of these recently and it sped up my dovetail layout time as well as gave me good practice. You could make a couple for different angles for more practice.
  7. So in this case, I would saw multiple kerfs running parallel to your groove shoulders and then destroy the waste with a chisel. Clean up with a router plane and a shoulder plane. You mentioned it's a stopped groove. Might need to be gentle near the stopped portions. Treat that area like a mortise. I think power tools and stopped grooves were meant for each other. Even on narrow grooves, you have to resort to a chisel because the plows skate will ride up and over the stopped portion.
  8. I'm confused how a kerfing plane would help in this case. A kerfing plane normally cuts along the grain, like a rebate. Anyways, it's true pine does bruise very easily. I have found that it's better if I saw the shoulders of a dado with a carcass saw. The other option, would be tho remove the waste in the middle, while keeping quite clear of the shoulders. Then you can work towards your knife line, very slowly with paring cuts to keep from bruising.