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Everything posted by Byrdie

  1. Looks a lot like what I plan to build. I've got the lift, now I need to get of my ... couch.
  2. +1 I check in during down time. Guess I'll have to find some real work to do.
  3. Typically wood should be surfaced before it is dimensioned so that the dimensions are true from flattened surfaces. If the pieces are to large or unwieldy to handle then I would *rough* dimension them before surfacing them. Basically you want flat and true surfaces to work from.
  4. +1 - I agree with Tom wholeheartedly.
  5. I'm hoping you don't give up totally on this one but take the lessons learned and apply them. I, for one, would still like to see how something like this could be done. Perhaps you need a different bonding agent, maybe one that's not so reactive to the surface but rather works on top of it. Maybe you need to shellac your surfaces first to prevent absorption. Might try a different approach for creating your base as well. Or you could try gluing up smaller sub assemblies of 5 or so stars and then gluing the sub assemblies together.
  6. For *my eye, I think I'd want to see the far side of the arms flow more into the rim of the bowl rather than turn and meet the bowl in the almost perpendicular manner that the appear to now. I also think I like the original where the arc of the arms appeared not to rise above the rim of the bowl. Do these comments come across clearly? I'm not sure I'm saying them the best way I could.
  7. One can never have too many clamps ... I'm going to have to look for some of these!
  8. Oh great. Now my YouTube search is going to be full of that ...
  9. Interested in organs and organ making, unfortunately not interested in moving ... again. If I were a bit younger this would be real tempting! Wish the best of luck and hope you find who you're looking for.
  10. I wish that was my level of "mess."
  11. The other advantage of wider legs on the bench is that you don't end up with a long unsupported section of bench outside the legs. Too long a piece ends up acting like a teeter totter when someone sits on it. Don't ask me how I know.
  12. I always cut my miters at the table saw with the aid of a Wixley and have had good results. The blade in the table saw is more stable as is the bed to reference from. Most of my miters have been for boxes of one sort or another and if there's gaps they're too fine for my eye.
  13. So don't try to replicate Maloof, just try to represent him. I've got confidence in your skill. I'm sure the more you try the closer you'll get and you're probably already closer to the look and feel than you think. That's exactly what Maloof is, a feeling. It's not a rigid style or set of steps in woodworking. I watched a video of him working at the bandsaw during an interview he did. He wasn't trying to match exactly what he'd done before. He was working and shaping the wood until it had the right feel, until his eye found what it was looking for. And maybe you're not meant to do Maloof. You may love the way it looks, who couldn't. But maybe you're meant to do Cooper. That might just be what the next generation will be talking about!
  14. Road trip. Build the cost of gas and hotels into the cost of the build. Yeah, I know. There are more than a few logistics companies out there that will do the majority of the leg work for you but you'll have to have a pretty good estimate of the volume and weight before anyone can give you valid answers.
  15. Welcome Steve. Look forward to seeing some pics and notes as you progress on the sideboard.
  16. I only did a quick search but it looks like your best bet would be to find another saw on the net for parts and cannibalize it. I believe the saw was made in France and I'm not confident the manufacturer is still in business.
  17. I'm not particularly a big fan of slabs but I do like the design of that base. Considering the color and swirling grain in your slab, I'd think you would want to go with something nicer than D Fir for your base. I like something dark with a little more action in the grain if it were me. First thing that came to mind for me was Jatoba but I don't know that you need something that hard or at that price point. The color would work well, however.
  18. It's one of two things - either a contaminate or a chemical reaction. I'd go with the later. Something in the wood or some other particulate got into the glue and caused a reaction that turned black. Haven't a clue what it might be although the suggestion that it was steel of some sort is the one that makes the most sense as that typically goes black.
  19. Woodpecker builds *very nice stuff but I think they find it just a little to precious for my budget and tastes. I just bought a Jessem router lift very similar to the one that's included with that table. Priced very decently at Woodcraft and the two gift cards my brother had given me for Christmases didn't hurt either. I've unpacked it and taken a very close look at it. I think the construction is very well done and well thought out. It includes the ability to adjust for future drift and the machining on mine is very tight and clean. On the other hand, the price of the lift and table combo you linked to is not something I'm willing to budget for. I like building stuff and I'm sure I can put together a very nice table for about half the cost of that package. I've had rough plans drawn up for about 4 years and having bought the lift is my inspiration to finally build it. I'll save the extra money to buy bits. No more using the inexpensive (I dislike the word "cheap") plastic portable one I've used for years with an old B&D router. It's served me well but I want something better.
  20. lewisc beat me to it. I was going to suggest a light charring followed by sanding or scraping and a clear coat.
  21. I actually have done both these methods with success. Personally, I prefer the mortise and tenon as the tongue and groove with the open ends of the groove lend its self to several failures, one of which is demonstrated in the picture above. Part of the key is good and careful fit. The other is that the holes through the tenons for the pegs should be elongated in the direction of expansion - cross grain on the tenons, parallel to the grain in the breadboard end. It doesn't take much, make the hole oversize by about an eighth, a sixteenth to either side of the peg.
  22. Still think you should've cut the basic shape out of a board (considering grain) and then sliced the wafers on a bandsaw, maybe sanding them a bit after slicing. I don't think that would've avoided the problems you're having in glue up now but the edge grain would've looked interesting. Not sure that using the CNC added much. On the other hand, whatever the method I'm still anxiously awaiting the outcome. Don't give up - might be some tweaking involved in the final form but it'll be worth the trip and make the next time more interesting.
  23. I was already to type an answer and see you got it handled due to the correct and timely answers of the others. Simply, moving the top of the wheel toward you (screwing "out" the adjustment knob) will move the blade away from you toward the center of the wheel - what you need in the first picture above. The opposite will have the opposite effect. The bottom of the gullet, not the center of the band, is what should be centered on the wheel. That, in short, is the Snodgrass set up and a very efficient one. It's not the tool I use the most but my bandsaw is top three of my favorite tools in the shop and a proper set up, when you figure it out, makes it even more fun to use. Don't go by the markings built into the saw. Get a feel for proper tension and tracking by listening to the sounds your saw makes, both on good and bad cuts, and the sound it makes when you strum it like a fiddle string. It should make a nice, tight "ping." You'll recognize the sound when you hear it. Happy resawing!
  24. Beautiful table. Really like the bookmatch on the top and the color. Not exactly sure what but something bugs me about the bottom shelf that makes me think I would've done something different. I think maybe it's too low and I might've gone a couple inches higher. Just the same, I really like it.