Miles11we

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About Miles11we

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 04/23/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Romeo, Mi
  • Woodworking Interests
    Woodturning, furniture making, bowmaking, harvesting my own turning material and pretending to be a manly man lumberjack type.

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  1. Although $3 is significantly cheaper, at $25 or so, the shinwa bevel gauge is a really good deal, the tightening mechanism is rock solid (you can drop it on the floor from 6' and it wont move, and thats without really cranking down on it.) and its top quality.
  2. I personally think that not just for safety sake but for results too, every machine that doesnt absolutely need to be mobile should be bolted down with good solid anchors. If i had to have something mobile, there are mobile bases that will completely set the machine all the way down instead of having it still sitting on two wheels. https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/110/4697/Lift-Lock-and-Roll-Lathe-Mobility-System?term=lathe -Something like that but for a saw..
  3. have you measured the domino (machine) itself? with a pretty true square and some creativity you should be able to check everything pretty quickly to see if the sweep of the cutter is parallel to the fence dominos need extraction, they are awful at clearing chips if you arent using dust extraction (which will give you wonky holes in my experience). .... I went to grab mine to be able to better see and look at how that could happen but I just got back from dropping it off at my new job..
  4. I agree that pre fin=face frames. Most of the banding that iv prefinished was put on with a big edge bander That being said you can iron on store bought prefibished edge banding thats meant for heat. It seems to be a bit more heat resistant than normal laquer but can still get messed up if you dilly dally too long.
  5. If you still want to Color match- it is way easier (and cheaper) if you start with a base that is close (or just white) and use concentrates to get their. And once you get sort of close- Fine tuning with only primary colors. Accurate 100gram max scales are pretty cheap and hey, if you start slinging reefer, they are great for that too. Also means you can mix up your concentrates for a sub 100ml samples and not waste quarts at a time. Why not get the color made in precat lacquer or conversion varnish? It will spray much nicer/be able to be thinned better for spraying, more durable, etc.
  6. From when we used to buy our doors and drawer boxes- I couldnt even tell you how many maple drawers and doors with really amazing curl, and as aways.... painted. When buying and processing maple 100,000 bf at a time, they dont stop to go through everything and pick out the good stuff. Now that we are making everything again, i can stash it away for later But at the end of the day, its just maple.
  7. Big clive did a good video on the safety of doing this. Big clive lichtenberg pyrography saftey
  8. Iv actually been looking to get a system like that too but keep telling myself i should just get better at hand sharpening considering i do everything else free hand. Just cant seem to get knives down... or at least consistently. Whatever you choose to pull the trigger on, if you remember, let us know how it goes.
  9. from when I was doing floors and stairs with Yarema, I can tell you that even $20 million homes dont have square and straight anything. Scribe everything and never trust a "straight" line. one way of making treads an old timer showed me is to make two halves out of pine so you can scribe it in and use it as a pattern.
  10. I spray most everything that isnt getting oil nowadays and having a cheap gun specifically for concentrates and dyes is really handy. For my personal work I dont need nearly as much consistency as the work for my job. So at work this is what I do when needing to shade in stuff- -After sealing a piece you can get a good idea for what it needs and where - whether its black, brown, red, yellow, orange, etc. - After figuring out what it needs (color wise) for everything to look the same, I will usually reach for a solvent concentrate and (on lighter colors where you can easily mess something up with too much dye) thin it down- usually 90% acetone 10% dye. -set up for what im doing - shading an entire panel evenly- i will wind the fan all the way out and very little fluid, decent amount of air and just take my time, spotting- smaller fan, very little pressure but enough to get good atomization highlighting- usually slightly higher pressures, no fan, medium fluid and relatively far away from the piece. most dies look very different when under some clear so whenever you put down some dye you will need to top coat it again. you sort of can spray on non-sealed pieces but it is so difficult to get a good idea of what it will look like and get consistent results, i dont bother with it.
  11. Who did the flooring? Man this is bringing me back to when I worked with John Yarema. I miss working in the crazy high end stuff. Maybe ill jump back in.
  12. Have you considered cutting that section out and filling jt with an uinteresting shape and a maybe a contrasting wood? Like a butterfly key
  13. It looks a bit like cherry to me. Maybe just a wird picture
  14. I think ash is a great "all purpose wood". You can get a ton of different looks if you get creative with your finishing. Relatively easy to work but is still very strong and an all around good choice to get started with. Depending on your area ash is still kinda cheap from the the huge surplus we had from all the dying ash trees. A good lumber yard/saw mill is worth traveling a bit out of the way for amd way cheaper than trying to find anything at places like woodcraft. Prettymuch never get wood from places like home depot, even if it looks straight and all good, that stuff has usually been dried so poorly that it is just full of internal stresses that it will twist and move all over the place.
  15. If you plan on it only being their for most of its life just, i would just keep the wood pretty close to its desired location and sort od heated for a month or so. If you keep your place both cooled in the summer and regularly have rhe heat on on the winter its just going to be dry without too much fluctuation (its always nice to have a hydrometer), so just build it while it has a low mc and with it being heated the mc will stay low. If you still feel uneasy about it, change how you were going to build it, use quarter sawn, add mass where it will help, reduce it where it may help etc. If i was making something for a customer in that situation, I wouldnt be worried about it at all though.