Don Z.

Members
  • Content Count

    309
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

80 Good

About Don Z.

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday November 10

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Now, there's a long story...
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boatbuilding, Furniture

Recent Profile Visitors

2796 profile views
  1. https://incawoodworking.blogspot.com/2013/08/model-numbers-and-manuals-for-inca_21.html https://incamachines.com https://www.inca-maschinen.ch
  2. Do the garage and the laundry room share a wall? What I'm thinking is you already have 240 going from the box to the laundry room. It may not be too difficult for the electrician to change which wall the outlet is actually on. Then the outlet is in the garage. But two things come to mind. The first is that I thought (and will easily admit it if I'm wrong) that the most recent code requires an outlet for an electric dryer, whether you have an electric dryer or not. Of course, the contractor who told me that may not have properly understood the code. The second is that a modern dryer o
  3. While I love wooden shelves, and think they are correct in a closet, there are very good reasons to use the wire shelving in pantries. Correct installation is a must (no plastic clips), but where foodstuffs are concerned, go wire. Heck, don't take my word for it. Ask your county health department.
  4. Why push the board through the planer when you can have the planer walk down the board?
  5. I wanted to add a link. In looking up the link, I realized I've used this stuff so much, I confuse myself. Thixo is the Jamestown Distributors house product (sold as "Totalboat"). https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/64347 The WEST system stuff is called SIXten. Same idea (also on the Jamestown site). SystemThree calls their's "Gel Magic". https://www.systemthree.com/products/silvertip-gelmagic-non-sagging-epoxy-adhesive Any of the above will do what you need it to do. I just glanced at the specs for SystemThree, because I had t
  6. I've used a lot of epoxy. Here's what I can tell you. WEST is very flexible, because you can use different hardeners, and you can add the appropriate thickeners. It's a little expensive, but you're paying for their R&D, and their customer service. By the way, by "flexible", I don't mean the epoxy itself flexes, I mean you can adapt it to different uses: Colloidal silica for strength, micro balloons for fairing, etc. I like System Three. System Three has their "SilverTip" epoxies, which are pre-loaded with colloidal silica, so you don't have to add it. I was goin
  7. Yeah... but it sure beats the alternative, doesn't it?
  8. I know I have already committed the cardinal sin of suggesting building something out of wood on a woodworking forum, and for that I apologize and seek atonement. I would like to mention that the bow on that boat looks a little fine to make a platform all the way through. A pedestal seat up front, maybe, about a quarter of the way aft, and a platform in the stern would be OK, but I'd check on the metacentric height before I built full length. What I mean is, compare the bow of that boat to the punt you have in your first photo. One will have far more form stability than the other
  9. A boat as simple as a jon boat? You don't need to find a boat... you need to find some BS1088 plywood, and a decent set of plans... Maybe something by Phil Bolger will work? I'm sure there are many others.
  10. Not only a bilge pump, but a way to pull out the panels, in case you need to bail. You also want to be able to open it up to get good ventilation down there. In the photo you have, you can see the hinges. I'd need to see the actual boat, but my first shot would be to place beams across to the stringers, and then marine ply over that. I'd put vents fore and aft, and as said, use stringers. A live well isn't that hard, and WEST or SystemThree is your new best friend.
  11. I'm going to go out on a limb and say cutting flesh is kind of the point of using a bandsaw in the meat cutting industry...
  12. I used an acid stain that you had to neutralize after laying down. I don't see that on their site anymore, but this seems to be an equivalent: https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html They have three compatible sealers listed, the second one looks ideal, as well as the "soft skid" they say to use on the last coat. They have really great customer service, so you can give them a call and tell them what you are doing. There's also a forum at the garagejournal.com site that has a flooring sub-forum, and they post there.
  13. I have done it. I used the stain and clear coat from this vendor: https://www.legacyindustrial.net. I was going to epoxy, but this was a bit less expensive. The floor was in a brand new house, which limited the prep required. It was amazing. I really liked it, and it held up to driving on it, parking hot tires, melting snow, a 16 inch Grizzly planer being wheeled around on it, you name it. It could be slippery with sawdust on it. There is an additive recommended for that. Basically, you sprinkle a "sand like" finish on top as it is drying. If you like, you can decide wh
  14. Actually, the "easiest" thing to do... and probably the least expensive is to find an old Inca 710.