Don Z.

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About Don Z.

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday November 10

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Now, there's a long story...
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boatbuilding, Furniture

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  1. I know I have already committed the cardinal sin of suggesting building something out of wood on a woodworking forum, and for that I apologize and seek atonement. I would like to mention that the bow on that boat looks a little fine to make a platform all the way through. A pedestal seat up front, maybe, about a quarter of the way aft, and a platform in the stern would be OK, but I'd check on the metacentric height before I built full length. What I mean is, compare the bow of that boat to the punt you have in your first photo. One will have far more form stability than the other
  2. A boat as simple as a jon boat? You don't need to find a boat... you need to find some BS1088 plywood, and a decent set of plans... Maybe something by Phil Bolger will work? I'm sure there are many others.
  3. Not only a bilge pump, but a way to pull out the panels, in case you need to bail. You also want to be able to open it up to get good ventilation down there. In the photo you have, you can see the hinges. I'd need to see the actual boat, but my first shot would be to place beams across to the stringers, and then marine ply over that. I'd put vents fore and aft, and as said, use stringers. A live well isn't that hard, and WEST or SystemThree is your new best friend.
  4. I'm going to go out on a limb and say cutting flesh is kind of the point of using a bandsaw in the meat cutting industry...
  5. I used an acid stain that you had to neutralize after laying down. I don't see that on their site anymore, but this seems to be an equivalent: https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html They have three compatible sealers listed, the second one looks ideal, as well as the "soft skid" they say to use on the last coat. They have really great customer service, so you can give them a call and tell them what you are doing. There's also a forum at the garagejournal.com site that has a flooring sub-forum, and they post there.
  6. I have done it. I used the stain and clear coat from this vendor: https://www.legacyindustrial.net. I was going to epoxy, but this was a bit less expensive. The floor was in a brand new house, which limited the prep required. It was amazing. I really liked it, and it held up to driving on it, parking hot tires, melting snow, a 16 inch Grizzly planer being wheeled around on it, you name it. It could be slippery with sawdust on it. There is an additive recommended for that. Basically, you sprinkle a "sand like" finish on top as it is drying. If you like, you can decide wh
  7. Actually, the "easiest" thing to do... and probably the least expensive is to find an old Inca 710.
  8. WEST System 105 resin and 207 hardener. 207 is designed as a "clear finish" epoxy. According to their tech notes, pot life is 20 to 26 minutes, and you can apply three coats a day. Remember, thin coats, and there will be a bit of "absorption" in the first coat, so if that's thin enough, it should not sag. Their web site states: "Builders also appreciate the excellent fiberglass wet-out characteristics achieved with 105 Resin/207 Special Clear Hardener, yet it won’t drain from vertical surfaces like the very slow curing, low-viscosity epoxies." Four ounce cloth may also help sea
  9. I read it as making that final tail a "stubby" to give room for the bottom moldings. In other words, cut the tails as normal, then take that last tail and make it a half inch shorter than it used to be...
  10. You don't need the entire width to be one piece. The plies underneath will add to the strength.
  11. I would try https://woodfinder.com. It's a start.
  12. Not only will this work for many projects, but you can make something similar very easily. Find a quarter inch or so piece of steel. Angle iron will do in a pinch. Drill a 3/16 in hole. You don't even need to start with a dowel, just 8 side a piece of cherry. Use a wooden mallet. 3/16 dowel stock will come out the other side.
  13. If you really need new wheels (how far out of true are they?) contact Jesse at Eagle Tools: http://eagle-tools.com. If he doesn't have it, he'll know who does. Also, he might know the answer to your speed control question. Well set up, the saw runs very smooth. I don't know that increasing mass will help.
  14. Shannon's latest Lumber Industry Update podcast talks all about this. Check it out.
  15. I understand completely your desire to put the collection and electric in the floor. As stated, without a good understanding of your work flow, it's difficult to "predict" what you need. What I would do in your case, considering the size of the shop, is I would run a "U" pattern near the walls, with "up links" to where you think the tools will go. Add a couple of extra, but "cap" them. Add two runs to the center for the planer and table saw. Perhaps a third for a "floor sweep". Then, if you find you want to change layout to improve flow, there will probably be a nea