Don Z.

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About Don Z.

  • Birthday November 10

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    Now, there's a long story...
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boatbuilding, Furniture

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  1. Why not use a spline joint? In the edges, use a router or a dado blade (or a tongue and groove plane) to cut a rabbet, then match the rabbet width with something you have more faith in. You can use wood, or I've even heard of masts reinforces with carbon fiber rods. Then use epoxy to glue it together. Honestly, the epoxy would hold without the spline, but if you really want belt and braces...
  2. https://incawoodworking.blogspot.com/2013/08/model-numbers-and-manuals-for-inca_21.html https://incamachines.com https://www.inca-maschinen.ch
  3. Do the garage and the laundry room share a wall? What I'm thinking is you already have 240 going from the box to the laundry room. It may not be too difficult for the electrician to change which wall the outlet is actually on. Then the outlet is in the garage. But two things come to mind. The first is that I thought (and will easily admit it if I'm wrong) that the most recent code requires an outlet for an electric dryer, whether you have an electric dryer or not. Of course, the contractor who told me that may not have properly understood the code. The second is that a modern dryer outlet should be a four wire 240 outlet, while most table saws I've seen are two wire 240 volt outlets (I know my old Inca saw is this way, as is my newer (four year old) Grizzly planer is the same. Two hots, no neutral, and a ground, running into a NEMA 6-15 or 6-20 outlet. I'm imagining your dryer is either a 14-30 or L14-30, running two hots, one neutral and a ground. There's the limit of my knowledge, I don't know how to handle that neutral line. An electrician will. IF (and I don't recommend it) you made an extension cord, you'd still need to do something with that extra wire. Again, I don't know how. Worst case, though, it shouldn't be too terrible to run a wire from the box to the garage. You may even have room in your box for an extra breaker, which means you'll still have that live outlet in your laundry room. That may come in handy at some later date. Bottom line is that an electrician looking at what you have will do a far better (and safer) job fixing this than an internet forum will.
  4. While I love wooden shelves, and think they are correct in a closet, there are very good reasons to use the wire shelving in pantries. Correct installation is a must (no plastic clips), but where foodstuffs are concerned, go wire. Heck, don't take my word for it. Ask your county health department.
  5. Why push the board through the planer when you can have the planer walk down the board?
  6. I wanted to add a link. In looking up the link, I realized I've used this stuff so much, I confuse myself. Thixo is the Jamestown Distributors house product (sold as "Totalboat"). https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/64347 The WEST system stuff is called SIXten. Same idea (also on the Jamestown site). SystemThree calls their's "Gel Magic". https://www.systemthree.com/products/silvertip-gelmagic-non-sagging-epoxy-adhesive Any of the above will do what you need it to do. I just glanced at the specs for SystemThree, because I had the page open. Minimum cure temp is 50 degrees, gel time at 77 degrees is 30 minutes, and tack free at 77 degrees is 3 hours. Because it's not sitting in the cup, the exothermic reaction is not working against you. Also, you're only mixing that one thing you're working on... If you really want to take the time, you can put the glue on half the joint, clamp it all together, wait for the cure, then take it apart and glue up the remaining side. Twice as much work, but you'll get comfortable with the epoxy. Once you understand the Chemistry, you can get really creative with the stuff. It really is better life through chemistry.
  7. I've used a lot of epoxy. Here's what I can tell you. WEST is very flexible, because you can use different hardeners, and you can add the appropriate thickeners. It's a little expensive, but you're paying for their R&D, and their customer service. By the way, by "flexible", I don't mean the epoxy itself flexes, I mean you can adapt it to different uses: Colloidal silica for strength, micro balloons for fairing, etc. I like System Three. System Three has their "SilverTip" epoxies, which are pre-loaded with colloidal silica, so you don't have to add it. I was going to add: "Whatever you do, remember that epoxy is exothermic. That is, it makes its own heat as it cures. What this means in practice is that you don't want to mix it in a styrofoam cup, it will cure even faster, perhaps even melting the cup. You can slow down the reaction by mixing it in a flat pan... spreading it out keeps the heat from "consolidating", speeding its own cure." Then I got to thinking about what you're using it for, and how you need to clamp things together once you've applied the epoxy. If I were in your shoes, I'd use Thixo (WEST), or System Three's equivalent, or even score the equivalent from Jamestown Distributors. These are basically a mix that comes in a caulking tube, with mixing tubes on the end so that you simply lay a bead down, and you have plenty of time to clamp up. Let the mix harden in the mixing tube, toss it, and then screw on a new tube the next time you need some. For the amount you're gluing, you'll have some from one tube left over. Also, remember, contact pressure is enough, you don't need to clamp too tightly. I'd consider taping the joints, adding the epoxy, then "rolling" the legs together and clamping. Should work. People glue 40 foot birds mouth masts together with this stuff, yours should be easy in comparison. Oh, and do a search for an eBook by Russell Brown. Everything you ever wanted to know about working with epoxy, but were afraid to ask. But for this job, I'd use Thixo.
  8. Yeah... but it sure beats the alternative, doesn't it?
  9. I know I have already committed the cardinal sin of suggesting building something out of wood on a woodworking forum, and for that I apologize and seek atonement. I would like to mention that the bow on that boat looks a little fine to make a platform all the way through. A pedestal seat up front, maybe, about a quarter of the way aft, and a platform in the stern would be OK, but I'd check on the metacentric height before I built full length. What I mean is, compare the bow of that boat to the punt you have in your first photo. One will have far more form stability than the other. Just something to think about.
  10. A boat as simple as a jon boat? You don't need to find a boat... you need to find some BS1088 plywood, and a decent set of plans... Maybe something by Phil Bolger will work? I'm sure there are many others.
  11. Not only a bilge pump, but a way to pull out the panels, in case you need to bail. You also want to be able to open it up to get good ventilation down there. In the photo you have, you can see the hinges. I'd need to see the actual boat, but my first shot would be to place beams across to the stringers, and then marine ply over that. I'd put vents fore and aft, and as said, use stringers. A live well isn't that hard, and WEST or SystemThree is your new best friend.
  12. I'm going to go out on a limb and say cutting flesh is kind of the point of using a bandsaw in the meat cutting industry...
  13. I used an acid stain that you had to neutralize after laying down. I don't see that on their site anymore, but this seems to be an equivalent: https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html They have three compatible sealers listed, the second one looks ideal, as well as the "soft skid" they say to use on the last coat. They have really great customer service, so you can give them a call and tell them what you are doing. There's also a forum at the garagejournal.com site that has a flooring sub-forum, and they post there.
  14. I have done it. I used the stain and clear coat from this vendor: https://www.legacyindustrial.net. I was going to epoxy, but this was a bit less expensive. The floor was in a brand new house, which limited the prep required. It was amazing. I really liked it, and it held up to driving on it, parking hot tires, melting snow, a 16 inch Grizzly planer being wheeled around on it, you name it. It could be slippery with sawdust on it. There is an additive recommended for that. Basically, you sprinkle a "sand like" finish on top as it is drying. If you like, you can decide where you want the non skid, and where you don't need it. It's more expensive, but is more durable than the Rustoleum you can find at Home Depot and such. I can't tell you how well it hold up, as I sold the house after three years. Given the opportunity, I would do it again.