Don Z.

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About Don Z.

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday November 10

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    New Orleans, LA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boatbuilding, Furniture

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  1. CPES is not meant to be an adhesive, I would not use it for that. System 3, IIRC is thinner than WEST, as is MAS epoxy. I believe also that Interlux makes a very thin epoxy meant to wet out fiberglass to wood.
  2. It sounds like the same method as used for cold molded boatbuilding. Usually, those guys use ⅛ in veneers, or maybe on rare occasions 1/16. You could try Edensaw, but I think Certainly Wood should be able to help.
  3. I'm not sure I understand. How can it be both single ply and cross grain. Isn't the cross grain the second ply? Other than that, I bet you can make your own from veneer.
  4. I took it to mean there was nothing wrong. It's to their credit that they recommended a glue instead of a sales pitch to replace...
  5. I think you're psyching yourself out. Construction of the octagon using the method illustrated will get you a very precise shape. Mark it on the ply with a knife, and use a block plane to sneak up on the lines. For the "edges", your shooting board is your friend. Once you have the frame made, rabbet one edge. Drop the ply into the rabbet. You can always fill any gaps with epoxy, but if you were careful with the block plane, I don't think you will need to. Then, get to work on the veneer. That's something you can really sneak up on. I know that's easier to write about than to do it. Practice your shooting on a less expensive wood, and you'll get the angles right. The other option would be a picture frame shaver, but that seems like an expense unless you plan on doing a lot of miters this size. A dedicated 22.5 degree shooting board should be a simple thing to make, at least in comparison.
  6. Honestly, for that price and size, I would consider looking for a used Inca 10 inch saw.
  7. Make friends here:
  8. I think Nick has already done the how to build a canoe video, so no sense doing it twice: How about a Bombe Chest?
  9. I would use pegs. Drill a hole in the bottom piece, and then in the underside of the top piece, aligned with the bottom hole. Wooden peg/dowel in the bottom, align the top, and Bob’s your uncle. Gravity holds it “down”, peg prevents lateral movement. Think of it as a floating tenon, without glue. Two pegs half inch diameter each have held my workbench top to the legs for over 10 years now...
  10. I'm a big fan of Epifanes... But Epifanes is expensive. Less expensive would be TotalBoat Gleam: But when searching for that, I also came across this TotalBoat product that may work for you: Marc's finish of varnish over epoxy does work well, but it is not necessary. Also, because you won't be seeing a lot of UV, the traditional 8 coats may not be necessary. Certainly, I've done many boats with just straight up varnish. The one thing spar varnish will give you (as will the second product I listed above) is flexibility. An outdoor table will move more than an indoor table, and that's an area where spar varnish shines (no pun intended).
  11. The Jamestown TotalBoat system is good, and less expensive. I like System Three, and MAS works well too. Whatever you do, don't forget a UV resistant finish when you are done, because epoxy is sensitive to UV, and you don't want to have to do this all over again in a year or two.
  12. The Gougeon Brothers have a book (PDF available for free on line at their site) that goes into this in detail. Yes, the fillers add strength, but you don't need a lot. For what you are doing, you can also use wood flour. It's really worth the time to download the book. There's a lot in there on boatbuilding, but a whole chapter just on the epoxy (to include how they used it to create wind tunnel blades).
  13. I can understand not wanting to buy a whole WEST setup for this. Instead of a syringe kit, have you considered this?
  14. Going off memory here, but IIRC, the matte finish is meant for boat interiors, and as such has little UV protection. So build up with gloss for UV, finish with matte for visuals. But check with Epifanes. Worst case, maybe a few coats of gloss over what you have, then finish with matte?
  15. Oh, and almost forgot: Lead ingots from a printer (a real printer who does linotype, not just Kinko's).