Don Z.

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About Don Z.

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday November 10

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Orleans, LA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boatbuilding, Furniture

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  1. I know a lot of people don't like the foam. But please understand that the Jen foam brushes are a bit better than the ones you normally find at the big box store. I tried them after reading about them in Rebecca Whitman's The Art of Finishing Wood. I've had great success with using them on Marine Varnish. The savings in cleaning, disposing of cleaning fluid, etc. make them worth a try. Also of note: Varnish brushes really are for varnish. If you use them for paint, they become paint brushes, not varnish brushes, so then you need a second set. If you don't varnish (or paint) often, the Jen brushes are great to have around. I do have a few of the Epifanes brushes. They are very nice. They are not cheap. The old sable hair brushes are even nicer, but now unobtainium. I would say if you varnish every day, buy the best brush you can find. If you varnish once in a blue moon, you might find the Jen brushes a bit convenient.
  2. By the box: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1189
  3. I've been thinking about this. Yes, absolutely, you'll want to learn to sharpen, and keep the blades sharp as you work. I also understand your desire for economics, especially with a young one, and the fact that you are just starting out and are not sure exactly how this is going to go. Something you might want to consider is that this sounds like a good opportunity to try the "scary sharp" system. A glass plate and some sandpaper is inexpensive, and if you make it through this project and decide to stick with it, you will not have a huge sunk cost when considering an upgrade. An inexpensive Japanese pull saw would be a good compliment. Your chosen chisels will be fine, but I would not assume they are "sharp enough" when they arrive. The bevel may be OK, and they won't be chipped, so you won't have to start from zero, but some light sharpening and then honing will make a world of difference. You may even consider some diamond paste on leather; again, not a huge investment. A few light strokes on that as you go will have obvious benefits.
  4. CPES is not meant to be an adhesive, I would not use it for that. System 3, IIRC is thinner than WEST, as is MAS epoxy. I believe also that Interlux makes a very thin epoxy meant to wet out fiberglass to wood.
  5. It sounds like the same method as used for cold molded boatbuilding. Usually, those guys use ⅛ in veneers, or maybe on rare occasions 1/16. You could try Edensaw, but I think Certainly Wood should be able to help.
  6. I'm not sure I understand. How can it be both single ply and cross grain. Isn't the cross grain the second ply? Other than that, I bet you can make your own from veneer.
  7. I took it to mean there was nothing wrong. It's to their credit that they recommended a glue instead of a sales pitch to replace...
  8. I think you're psyching yourself out. Construction of the octagon using the method illustrated will get you a very precise shape. Mark it on the ply with a knife, and use a block plane to sneak up on the lines. For the "edges", your shooting board is your friend. Once you have the frame made, rabbet one edge. Drop the ply into the rabbet. You can always fill any gaps with epoxy, but if you were careful with the block plane, I don't think you will need to. Then, get to work on the veneer. That's something you can really sneak up on. I know that's easier to write about than to do it. Practice your shooting on a less expensive wood, and you'll get the angles right. The other option would be a picture frame shaver, but that seems like an expense unless you plan on doing a lot of miters this size. A dedicated 22.5 degree shooting board should be a simple thing to make, at least in comparison.
  9. Honestly, for that price and size, I would consider looking for a used Inca 10 inch saw.
  10. Make friends here: http://owwm.org
  11. I think Nick has already done the how to build a canoe video, so no sense doing it twice: https://offermanwoodshop.com/shop/canoe-craft-dvd-and-book/ How about a Bombe Chest?
  12. I would use pegs. Drill a hole in the bottom piece, and then in the underside of the top piece, aligned with the bottom hole. Wooden peg/dowel in the bottom, align the top, and Bob’s your uncle. Gravity holds it “down”, peg prevents lateral movement. Think of it as a floating tenon, without glue. Two pegs half inch diameter each have held my workbench top to the legs for over 10 years now...
  13. I'm a big fan of Epifanes... But Epifanes is expensive. Less expensive would be TotalBoat Gleam: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97698&familyName=TotalBoat+Gleam+2.0+Spar+Varnish But when searching for that, I also came across this TotalBoat product that may work for you: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64352&familyName=TotalBoat+Marine+Wood+Finish Marc's finish of varnish over epoxy does work well, but it is not necessary. Also, because you won't be seeing a lot of UV, the traditional 8 coats may not be necessary. Certainly, I've done many boats with just straight up varnish. The one thing spar varnish will give you (as will the second product I listed above) is flexibility. An outdoor table will move more than an indoor table, and that's an area where spar varnish shines (no pun intended).
  14. The Jamestown TotalBoat system is good, and less expensive. I like System Three, and MAS works well too. Whatever you do, don't forget a UV resistant finish when you are done, because epoxy is sensitive to UV, and you don't want to have to do this all over again in a year or two.
  15. The Gougeon Brothers have a book (PDF available for free on line at their site) that goes into this in detail. Yes, the fillers add strength, but you don't need a lot. For what you are doing, you can also use wood flour. It's really worth the time to download the book. There's a lot in there on boatbuilding, but a whole chapter just on the epoxy (to include how they used it to create wind tunnel blades).