Don Z.

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About Don Z.

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday November 10

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  • Location
    New Orleans, LA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boatbuilding, Furniture

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  1. Don Z.

    Oneida Dust Deputy Repair

    I took it to mean there was nothing wrong. It's to their credit that they recommended a glue instead of a sales pitch to replace...
  2. Don Z.

    Octagonal table

    I think you're psyching yourself out. Construction of the octagon using the method illustrated will get you a very precise shape. Mark it on the ply with a knife, and use a block plane to sneak up on the lines. For the "edges", your shooting board is your friend. Once you have the frame made, rabbet one edge. Drop the ply into the rabbet. You can always fill any gaps with epoxy, but if you were careful with the block plane, I don't think you will need to. Then, get to work on the veneer. That's something you can really sneak up on. I know that's easier to write about than to do it. Practice your shooting on a less expensive wood, and you'll get the angles right. The other option would be a picture frame shaver, but that seems like an expense unless you plan on doing a lot of miters this size. A dedicated 22.5 degree shooting board should be a simple thing to make, at least in comparison.
  3. Don Z.

    Jigsaw vs bandsaw

    Honestly, for that price and size, I would consider looking for a used Inca 10 inch saw.
  4. Don Z.

    Old Delta Rockwell Tools

    Make friends here:
  5. Don Z.

    The Dream Guild Project

    I think Nick has already done the how to build a canoe video, so no sense doing it twice: How about a Bombe Chest?
  6. Don Z.

    attaching top and bottom of hutch

    I would use pegs. Drill a hole in the bottom piece, and then in the underside of the top piece, aligned with the bottom hole. Wooden peg/dowel in the bottom, align the top, and Bob’s your uncle. Gravity holds it “down”, peg prevents lateral movement. Think of it as a floating tenon, without glue. Two pegs half inch diameter each have held my workbench top to the legs for over 10 years now...
  7. Don Z.

    outdoor cedar table finish suggestions

    I'm a big fan of Epifanes... But Epifanes is expensive. Less expensive would be TotalBoat Gleam: But when searching for that, I also came across this TotalBoat product that may work for you: Marc's finish of varnish over epoxy does work well, but it is not necessary. Also, because you won't be seeing a lot of UV, the traditional 8 coats may not be necessary. Certainly, I've done many boats with just straight up varnish. The one thing spar varnish will give you (as will the second product I listed above) is flexibility. An outdoor table will move more than an indoor table, and that's an area where spar varnish shines (no pun intended).
  8. Don Z.

    West System alternatives

    The Jamestown TotalBoat system is good, and less expensive. I like System Three, and MAS works well too. Whatever you do, don't forget a UV resistant finish when you are done, because epoxy is sensitive to UV, and you don't want to have to do this all over again in a year or two.
  9. Don Z.

    Epoxy strength

    The Gougeon Brothers have a book (PDF available for free on line at their site) that goes into this in detail. Yes, the fillers add strength, but you don't need a lot. For what you are doing, you can also use wood flour. It's really worth the time to download the book. There's a lot in there on boatbuilding, but a whole chapter just on the epoxy (to include how they used it to create wind tunnel blades).
  10. Don Z.

    Wood crack & epoxy

    I can understand not wanting to buy a whole WEST setup for this. Instead of a syringe kit, have you considered this?
  11. Don Z.

    Oops. Wrong Epifanes

    Going off memory here, but IIRC, the matte finish is meant for boat interiors, and as such has little UV protection. So build up with gloss for UV, finish with matte for visuals. But check with Epifanes. Worst case, maybe a few coats of gloss over what you have, then finish with matte?
  12. Don Z.

    Lowering Furniture Center of Gravity

    Oh, and almost forgot: Lead ingots from a printer (a real printer who does linotype, not just Kinko's).
  13. Don Z.

    Lowering Furniture Center of Gravity

    While melting lead on something as simple as an outdoor grill is easy, I can understand the reticence. Mixing in epoxy is a workable solution, but will not be as dense as a solid piece would be. That said: There are numerous ways to hide it as well. For example, rip a small piece off the bottom shelf. Drill deep longitudal holes in the shelf, and then fill those holes with your lead shot. Glue the piece you ripped off back on. Alternately, you could resaw it as if you were book-matching, hollow out the two pieces, use your lead-epoxy slurry, and then re-glue the pieces. Lots of ways to skin that cat...
  14. Don Z.

    Lowering Furniture Center of Gravity

    Lead is extremely dense, and has a low melting point. It can also be purchased in 25 pound bags. Go to a sporting goods store where they sell equipment to reload shotgun shells. Failing that, there are still car wheels that are balanced with lead weights. A tire store may be willing to give you some. This has changed, as recycling becomes a business, and balancing weights have switched to zinc.
  15. Don Z.

    Plans For a Roubo workbench

    OK, well, let's be really pedantic then: Inline engines, like your four, have all cylinders in one bank. V engines split between two, Ws between three. Degrees define the angle between the banks. The difference between a Flat Opposed (180 degrees between the V) and a Boxer engine comes down to where the rods connect to the crank. On a V engine, there are two rods per crank journal. On a true boxer, each rod has its own journal. In this GIF, V6 on the left, Boxer 6 on the right: Fun fact: The Ferrari Berlinetta Boxer actually had a 180 degree V. Porsches and Subarus are much more like the one on the right. At least I think Subarus are. I know Porsches are. The Corvair was not truly a boxer. I don't have my Corvair shop manual with me, but as I recall, that manual was the first place I saw the term V-6 with cylinders separated by 180 degree banks." Of course, BMWs were using boxers to drive their motorcycles for years. I think it was since the 1920s? I'll have to look that one up. Another fun fact: It all comes down to packaging. Four cylinders (or less) tend to run roughly. Their firing order is difficult to oppose. Balance shafts help. Eights are also a little lumpy. The additional cylinders are much smoother, but something is always out of phase. Sixes and twelves, on the other hand, are much smoother. An inline six, however, is a long engine. This tends to cause a long hood (think Jaguar E Type). By splitting it into two Vs, you end up with a shorter, but wider engine. There's also a production piece that goes along with the engineering. Jaguar essentially joined two of their inline sixes to make a V-12 (and the XJ-S was purposely designed with a narrow engine bay so that British Leyland couldn't force them into using a Rover 8). Aston Martin, on the other hand, when they made their V12 for the DB-7, essentially connected two Ford V-6s. It's always cheaper to use parts off the shelf, when you can. When Porsche went to their flat 8s and flat 12s (and a beautiful engine that is!), the six's "jugs" came off the shelf, they only had to come up with a longer case (fairly simple), crank and cams. But pistons and cylinders? Easy day. Come to think of it, Wright-Curtis did the same thing with their radial engines (Wasp, Super Wasp, etc.). And, of course, there is an important difference between a radial engine, and a rotary engine. And we haven't even started talking about the pros and cons of over square engines compared to under squared, etc. But someone mentioned a bench?