Don Z.

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About Don Z.

  • Birthday November 10

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    Now, there's a long story...
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boatbuilding, Furniture

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  1. My first thought would be to quote Shannon: "Sharp fixes everything." That may in fact be the problem with your block plane. My go-to in a case like this, however, would be my low-angle #5 and a shooting board. For the tennons, though: It's not a through tennon. The strength is in the cheeks, a little short will not matter.
  2. 1/40th sounds very thin! The boat in my avatar is made up of 1/8th...
  3. These guys might be able to help... but not sure if they are still making them: See also
  4. "Where" is the valid question. But I do have some experience with this: The sail loft where I worked the summer after university had exactly this. 4X8 sheets of ply screwed into the "rafters" below. The ply was not construction grade CDX but rather some very nice version of mahogany, or something similar. ¾ inch. It was finished in a floor poly, but we were always careful to walk over it shoeless, mainly to keep off dirt and grit that would find its way into the sails. If I remember, expansion wasn't really a concern, there was no more than enough space between the full size sheets to slide a credit card, if that. I don't know how to define "durable", but we spent our days either tacking down sails with push pins, or banging in awls to stretch the corners of the sails. I always liked the sewing machine set on the floor with the "well" next to it for the operator so you could drag the sails right through. I had a lot of fun that summer! Somewhere in my files I have notes on a "new" MDO type product that would be paint grade and meant to be used as either a sub floor or actually a final floor for use in a shop. Where are my notes on that?
  5. I had a teak countertop in my kitchen. We used Behlen's Salad Bowl finish, thinking it would be easier to touch up. Never needed to... About 14 years later, we sanded, re-did about two coats, and sold the house...
  6. Why not use a spline joint? In the edges, use a router or a dado blade (or a tongue and groove plane) to cut a rabbet, then match the rabbet width with something you have more faith in. You can use wood, or I've even heard of masts reinforces with carbon fiber rods. Then use epoxy to glue it together. Honestly, the epoxy would hold without the spline, but if you really want belt and braces...
  8. Do the garage and the laundry room share a wall? What I'm thinking is you already have 240 going from the box to the laundry room. It may not be too difficult for the electrician to change which wall the outlet is actually on. Then the outlet is in the garage. But two things come to mind. The first is that I thought (and will easily admit it if I'm wrong) that the most recent code requires an outlet for an electric dryer, whether you have an electric dryer or not. Of course, the contractor who told me that may not have properly understood the code. The second is that a modern dryer outlet should be a four wire 240 outlet, while most table saws I've seen are two wire 240 volt outlets (I know my old Inca saw is this way, as is my newer (four year old) Grizzly planer is the same. Two hots, no neutral, and a ground, running into a NEMA 6-15 or 6-20 outlet. I'm imagining your dryer is either a 14-30 or L14-30, running two hots, one neutral and a ground. There's the limit of my knowledge, I don't know how to handle that neutral line. An electrician will. IF (and I don't recommend it) you made an extension cord, you'd still need to do something with that extra wire. Again, I don't know how. Worst case, though, it shouldn't be too terrible to run a wire from the box to the garage. You may even have room in your box for an extra breaker, which means you'll still have that live outlet in your laundry room. That may come in handy at some later date. Bottom line is that an electrician looking at what you have will do a far better (and safer) job fixing this than an internet forum will.
  9. While I love wooden shelves, and think they are correct in a closet, there are very good reasons to use the wire shelving in pantries. Correct installation is a must (no plastic clips), but where foodstuffs are concerned, go wire. Heck, don't take my word for it. Ask your county health department.
  10. Why push the board through the planer when you can have the planer walk down the board?
  11. I wanted to add a link. In looking up the link, I realized I've used this stuff so much, I confuse myself. Thixo is the Jamestown Distributors house product (sold as "Totalboat"). The WEST system stuff is called SIXten. Same idea (also on the Jamestown site). SystemThree calls their's "Gel Magic". Any of the above will do what you need it to do. I just glanced at the specs for SystemThree, because I had the page open. Minimum cure temp is 50 degrees, gel time at 77 degrees is 30 minutes, and tack free at 77 degrees is 3 hours. Because it's not sitting in the cup, the exothermic reaction is not working against you. Also, you're only mixing that one thing you're working on... If you really want to take the time, you can put the glue on half the joint, clamp it all together, wait for the cure, then take it apart and glue up the remaining side. Twice as much work, but you'll get comfortable with the epoxy. Once you understand the Chemistry, you can get really creative with the stuff. It really is better life through chemistry.
  12. I've used a lot of epoxy. Here's what I can tell you. WEST is very flexible, because you can use different hardeners, and you can add the appropriate thickeners. It's a little expensive, but you're paying for their R&D, and their customer service. By the way, by "flexible", I don't mean the epoxy itself flexes, I mean you can adapt it to different uses: Colloidal silica for strength, micro balloons for fairing, etc. I like System Three. System Three has their "SilverTip" epoxies, which are pre-loaded with colloidal silica, so you don't have to add it. I was going to add: "Whatever you do, remember that epoxy is exothermic. That is, it makes its own heat as it cures. What this means in practice is that you don't want to mix it in a styrofoam cup, it will cure even faster, perhaps even melting the cup. You can slow down the reaction by mixing it in a flat pan... spreading it out keeps the heat from "consolidating", speeding its own cure." Then I got to thinking about what you're using it for, and how you need to clamp things together once you've applied the epoxy. If I were in your shoes, I'd use Thixo (WEST), or System Three's equivalent, or even score the equivalent from Jamestown Distributors. These are basically a mix that comes in a caulking tube, with mixing tubes on the end so that you simply lay a bead down, and you have plenty of time to clamp up. Let the mix harden in the mixing tube, toss it, and then screw on a new tube the next time you need some. For the amount you're gluing, you'll have some from one tube left over. Also, remember, contact pressure is enough, you don't need to clamp too tightly. I'd consider taping the joints, adding the epoxy, then "rolling" the legs together and clamping. Should work. People glue 40 foot birds mouth masts together with this stuff, yours should be easy in comparison. Oh, and do a search for an eBook by Russell Brown. Everything you ever wanted to know about working with epoxy, but were afraid to ask. But for this job, I'd use Thixo.
  13. Yeah... but it sure beats the alternative, doesn't it?
  14. I know I have already committed the cardinal sin of suggesting building something out of wood on a woodworking forum, and for that I apologize and seek atonement. I would like to mention that the bow on that boat looks a little fine to make a platform all the way through. A pedestal seat up front, maybe, about a quarter of the way aft, and a platform in the stern would be OK, but I'd check on the metacentric height before I built full length. What I mean is, compare the bow of that boat to the punt you have in your first photo. One will have far more form stability than the other. Just something to think about.