Don Z.

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Everything posted by Don Z.

  1. I used an acid stain that you had to neutralize after laying down. I don't see that on their site anymore, but this seems to be an equivalent: https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html They have three compatible sealers listed, the second one looks ideal, as well as the "soft skid" they say to use on the last coat. They have really great customer service, so you can give them a call and tell them what you are doing. There's also a forum at the garagejournal.com site that has a flooring sub-forum, and they post there.
  2. I have done it. I used the stain and clear coat from this vendor: https://www.legacyindustrial.net. I was going to epoxy, but this was a bit less expensive. The floor was in a brand new house, which limited the prep required. It was amazing. I really liked it, and it held up to driving on it, parking hot tires, melting snow, a 16 inch Grizzly planer being wheeled around on it, you name it. It could be slippery with sawdust on it. There is an additive recommended for that. Basically, you sprinkle a "sand like" finish on top as it is drying. If you like, you can decide wh
  3. Actually, the "easiest" thing to do... and probably the least expensive is to find an old Inca 710.
  4. WEST System 105 resin and 207 hardener. 207 is designed as a "clear finish" epoxy. According to their tech notes, pot life is 20 to 26 minutes, and you can apply three coats a day. Remember, thin coats, and there will be a bit of "absorption" in the first coat, so if that's thin enough, it should not sag. Their web site states: "Builders also appreciate the excellent fiberglass wet-out characteristics achieved with 105 Resin/207 Special Clear Hardener, yet it won’t drain from vertical surfaces like the very slow curing, low-viscosity epoxies." Four ounce cloth may also help sea
  5. I read it as making that final tail a "stubby" to give room for the bottom moldings. In other words, cut the tails as normal, then take that last tail and make it a half inch shorter than it used to be...
  6. You don't need the entire width to be one piece. The plies underneath will add to the strength.
  7. I would try https://woodfinder.com. It's a start.
  8. Not only will this work for many projects, but you can make something similar very easily. Find a quarter inch or so piece of steel. Angle iron will do in a pinch. Drill a 3/16 in hole. You don't even need to start with a dowel, just 8 side a piece of cherry. Use a wooden mallet. 3/16 dowel stock will come out the other side.
  9. If you really need new wheels (how far out of true are they?) contact Jesse at Eagle Tools: http://eagle-tools.com. If he doesn't have it, he'll know who does. Also, he might know the answer to your speed control question. Well set up, the saw runs very smooth. I don't know that increasing mass will help.
  10. Shannon's latest Lumber Industry Update podcast talks all about this. Check it out.
  11. I understand completely your desire to put the collection and electric in the floor. As stated, without a good understanding of your work flow, it's difficult to "predict" what you need. What I would do in your case, considering the size of the shop, is I would run a "U" pattern near the walls, with "up links" to where you think the tools will go. Add a couple of extra, but "cap" them. Add two runs to the center for the planer and table saw. Perhaps a third for a "floor sweep". Then, if you find you want to change layout to improve flow, there will probably be a nea
  12. I would consider a Butler Tray Hinge: https://www.hardwaresource.com/specialty/butler-tray-table-hinges
  13. I know a lot of people don't like the foam. But please understand that the Jen foam brushes are a bit better than the ones you normally find at the big box store. I tried them after reading about them in Rebecca Whitman's The Art of Finishing Wood. I've had great success with using them on Marine Varnish. The savings in cleaning, disposing of cleaning fluid, etc. make them worth a try. Also of note: Varnish brushes really are for varnish. If you use them for paint, they become paint brushes, not varnish brushes, so then you need a second set. If you don't varnish (or paint) often,
  14. By the box: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1189
  15. I've been thinking about this. Yes, absolutely, you'll want to learn to sharpen, and keep the blades sharp as you work. I also understand your desire for economics, especially with a young one, and the fact that you are just starting out and are not sure exactly how this is going to go. Something you might want to consider is that this sounds like a good opportunity to try the "scary sharp" system. A glass plate and some sandpaper is inexpensive, and if you make it through this project and decide to stick with it, you will not have a huge sunk cost when considering an upgrade.
  16. CPES is not meant to be an adhesive, I would not use it for that. System 3, IIRC is thinner than WEST, as is MAS epoxy. I believe also that Interlux makes a very thin epoxy meant to wet out fiberglass to wood.
  17. It sounds like the same method as used for cold molded boatbuilding. Usually, those guys use ⅛ in veneers, or maybe on rare occasions 1/16. You could try Edensaw, but I think Certainly Wood should be able to help.
  18. I'm not sure I understand. How can it be both single ply and cross grain. Isn't the cross grain the second ply? Other than that, I bet you can make your own from veneer.
  19. I took it to mean there was nothing wrong. It's to their credit that they recommended a glue instead of a sales pitch to replace...
  20. I think you're psyching yourself out. Construction of the octagon using the method illustrated will get you a very precise shape. Mark it on the ply with a knife, and use a block plane to sneak up on the lines. For the "edges", your shooting board is your friend. Once you have the frame made, rabbet one edge. Drop the ply into the rabbet. You can always fill any gaps with epoxy, but if you were careful with the block plane, I don't think you will need to. Then, get to work on the veneer. That's something you can really sneak up on. I know that's easier to write a
  21. Honestly, for that price and size, I would consider looking for a used Inca 10 inch saw.
  22. Make friends here: http://owwm.org
  23. I think Nick has already done the how to build a canoe video, so no sense doing it twice: https://offermanwoodshop.com/shop/canoe-craft-dvd-and-book/ How about a Bombe Chest?
  24. I would use pegs. Drill a hole in the bottom piece, and then in the underside of the top piece, aligned with the bottom hole. Wooden peg/dowel in the bottom, align the top, and Bob’s your uncle. Gravity holds it “down”, peg prevents lateral movement. Think of it as a floating tenon, without glue. Two pegs half inch diameter each have held my workbench top to the legs for over 10 years now...
  25. I'm a big fan of Epifanes... But Epifanes is expensive. Less expensive would be TotalBoat Gleam: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97698&familyName=TotalBoat+Gleam+2.0+Spar+Varnish But when searching for that, I also came across this TotalBoat product that may work for you: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64352&familyName=TotalBoat+Marine+Wood+Finish Marc's finish of varnish over epoxy does work well, but it is not necessary. Also, because you won't be seeing a lot of UV,