Don Z.

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Everything posted by Don Z.

  1. You don't need the entire width to be one piece. The plies underneath will add to the strength.
  2. I would try It's a start.
  3. Not only will this work for many projects, but you can make something similar very easily. Find a quarter inch or so piece of steel. Angle iron will do in a pinch. Drill a 3/16 in hole. You don't even need to start with a dowel, just 8 side a piece of cherry. Use a wooden mallet. 3/16 dowel stock will come out the other side.
  4. If you really need new wheels (how far out of true are they?) contact Jesse at Eagle Tools: If he doesn't have it, he'll know who does. Also, he might know the answer to your speed control question. Well set up, the saw runs very smooth. I don't know that increasing mass will help.
  5. Shannon's latest Lumber Industry Update podcast talks all about this. Check it out.
  6. I understand completely your desire to put the collection and electric in the floor. As stated, without a good understanding of your work flow, it's difficult to "predict" what you need. What I would do in your case, considering the size of the shop, is I would run a "U" pattern near the walls, with "up links" to where you think the tools will go. Add a couple of extra, but "cap" them. Add two runs to the center for the planer and table saw. Perhaps a third for a "floor sweep". Then, if you find you want to change layout to improve flow, there will probably be a nearby gate to run a hose from the machine to the floor. I may not do that with a larger shop, but at this size, I don't see you as being too far off.
  7. I would consider a Butler Tray Hinge:
  8. I know a lot of people don't like the foam. But please understand that the Jen foam brushes are a bit better than the ones you normally find at the big box store. I tried them after reading about them in Rebecca Whitman's The Art of Finishing Wood. I've had great success with using them on Marine Varnish. The savings in cleaning, disposing of cleaning fluid, etc. make them worth a try. Also of note: Varnish brushes really are for varnish. If you use them for paint, they become paint brushes, not varnish brushes, so then you need a second set. If you don't varnish (or paint) often, the Jen brushes are great to have around. I do have a few of the Epifanes brushes. They are very nice. They are not cheap. The old sable hair brushes are even nicer, but now unobtainium. I would say if you varnish every day, buy the best brush you can find. If you varnish once in a blue moon, you might find the Jen brushes a bit convenient.
  9. By the box:
  10. I've been thinking about this. Yes, absolutely, you'll want to learn to sharpen, and keep the blades sharp as you work. I also understand your desire for economics, especially with a young one, and the fact that you are just starting out and are not sure exactly how this is going to go. Something you might want to consider is that this sounds like a good opportunity to try the "scary sharp" system. A glass plate and some sandpaper is inexpensive, and if you make it through this project and decide to stick with it, you will not have a huge sunk cost when considering an upgrade. An inexpensive Japanese pull saw would be a good compliment. Your chosen chisels will be fine, but I would not assume they are "sharp enough" when they arrive. The bevel may be OK, and they won't be chipped, so you won't have to start from zero, but some light sharpening and then honing will make a world of difference. You may even consider some diamond paste on leather; again, not a huge investment. A few light strokes on that as you go will have obvious benefits.
  11. CPES is not meant to be an adhesive, I would not use it for that. System 3, IIRC is thinner than WEST, as is MAS epoxy. I believe also that Interlux makes a very thin epoxy meant to wet out fiberglass to wood.
  12. It sounds like the same method as used for cold molded boatbuilding. Usually, those guys use ⅛ in veneers, or maybe on rare occasions 1/16. You could try Edensaw, but I think Certainly Wood should be able to help.
  13. I'm not sure I understand. How can it be both single ply and cross grain. Isn't the cross grain the second ply? Other than that, I bet you can make your own from veneer.
  14. I took it to mean there was nothing wrong. It's to their credit that they recommended a glue instead of a sales pitch to replace...
  15. I think you're psyching yourself out. Construction of the octagon using the method illustrated will get you a very precise shape. Mark it on the ply with a knife, and use a block plane to sneak up on the lines. For the "edges", your shooting board is your friend. Once you have the frame made, rabbet one edge. Drop the ply into the rabbet. You can always fill any gaps with epoxy, but if you were careful with the block plane, I don't think you will need to. Then, get to work on the veneer. That's something you can really sneak up on. I know that's easier to write about than to do it. Practice your shooting on a less expensive wood, and you'll get the angles right. The other option would be a picture frame shaver, but that seems like an expense unless you plan on doing a lot of miters this size. A dedicated 22.5 degree shooting board should be a simple thing to make, at least in comparison.
  16. Honestly, for that price and size, I would consider looking for a used Inca 10 inch saw.
  17. Make friends here:
  18. I think Nick has already done the how to build a canoe video, so no sense doing it twice: How about a Bombe Chest?
  19. I would use pegs. Drill a hole in the bottom piece, and then in the underside of the top piece, aligned with the bottom hole. Wooden peg/dowel in the bottom, align the top, and Bob’s your uncle. Gravity holds it “down”, peg prevents lateral movement. Think of it as a floating tenon, without glue. Two pegs half inch diameter each have held my workbench top to the legs for over 10 years now...
  20. I'm a big fan of Epifanes... But Epifanes is expensive. Less expensive would be TotalBoat Gleam: But when searching for that, I also came across this TotalBoat product that may work for you: Marc's finish of varnish over epoxy does work well, but it is not necessary. Also, because you won't be seeing a lot of UV, the traditional 8 coats may not be necessary. Certainly, I've done many boats with just straight up varnish. The one thing spar varnish will give you (as will the second product I listed above) is flexibility. An outdoor table will move more than an indoor table, and that's an area where spar varnish shines (no pun intended).
  21. The Jamestown TotalBoat system is good, and less expensive. I like System Three, and MAS works well too. Whatever you do, don't forget a UV resistant finish when you are done, because epoxy is sensitive to UV, and you don't want to have to do this all over again in a year or two.
  22. The Gougeon Brothers have a book (PDF available for free on line at their site) that goes into this in detail. Yes, the fillers add strength, but you don't need a lot. For what you are doing, you can also use wood flour. It's really worth the time to download the book. There's a lot in there on boatbuilding, but a whole chapter just on the epoxy (to include how they used it to create wind tunnel blades).
  23. I can understand not wanting to buy a whole WEST setup for this. Instead of a syringe kit, have you considered this?
  24. Going off memory here, but IIRC, the matte finish is meant for boat interiors, and as such has little UV protection. So build up with gloss for UV, finish with matte for visuals. But check with Epifanes. Worst case, maybe a few coats of gloss over what you have, then finish with matte?
  25. Oh, and almost forgot: Lead ingots from a printer (a real printer who does linotype, not just Kinko's).