Tpt life

Seems a silicone mat would care for that quite well. No?

Just to clarify a few things. This is not a cantilever. Cantilever would run past the surface of the wall and would be anchored back in that depth. This also has nothing to do with the strength of the stud wall, but rather with the connection you can make with it. I personally think you are stuck using angled braces of some sort because of the leverage. I would not want legs.

Find a downed barn. Beware the creosote smell that says it was a horse stall.

I don’t in any way find that to be true. Lots of good “pimply” Birdseye in the Canadian forest.

A lot of this theory came from hooking amp meters up to the cord after swapping out the cutting heads. I cannot find the article right now, so it may be behind a pay wall. Spirals led to a higher amperage draw in some marginal fashion as there was no “rest” between cutter heads. I am fairly certain that was all before people actually gave them a try and adapted to any quirks.

Yep, that looks like the difference between drum sanded field and random orbit edges. The drum sander got much tighter to the walls in line with the grain, but stayed well away from damaging those “end wall” areas requiring the smaller machine to do all that other work. Whether finer paper or burnishing due to dust loading, the ends of those boards aren’t prepped at the same level.

That’s too regular an area. Likely he sanded with one machine in the field and another at the edge. It is also possible there is a chemical reaction with adhesive residue. Sometimes padding is glued down around the edges to stay in place as the carpet is stretched.

The cabinet door hinges he used have a sprung element that locks into position a bit. Heavier hinges often do not have that as a feature, requiring a latch system of some sort to hold them in position.

Reading my comment you quoted, I spoke badly. Continuous duty rating is what I meant. Our shingle compressor runs three guns, but is running the entire time we are all three gunning. My little guy at home needs to rest half the time to stay cool.

Concrete itself may not be enough. Grounding rods go deep to where humidity is relatively constant because dry conditions don’t aid in materials with lower conductivity. Just a thought. Concrete may work well, but if it doesn’t, look for a better path to earth. Some municipalities will not let you ground much to water lines, but shop vac static should be fine.

I have cut several in two mowing the college green space... They are thin skin over a dense core that I cannot imagine will turn well. They are relatively soft plastic covering something like urethane.

I am not an archery expert, but do get out after deer with a bow. There are a ton of guys calling these recurves “recurve flatbows.” Makes it sound as the distinction is between other recurves such as horn bows.

Google “cranked neck chisel.”

For those screws to pull, I would question the screw choice or wood species. Two screws should hold 300 lbs. I am not sure I would have drilled the two so close together on one side of the apron. Having said that, pocket screw butt joints? Anything more will aid a ton.

I have used around 10,000 tubes of OSI Quad and a half million OSI VP series. The only thing with Quad is that it off gasses some nasty stuff while curing and so is only approved for exterior use. I’d take a different sealant in the inside of the dwelling to force any off gassing to the exterior. I cannot believe I forgot how we have done this. I guess it has been a few years. We used butyl flashing tape to provide a barrier between the concrete and sill, then used silicone and fasteners. I question using epoxy on only the bottom of a sill. Unbalanced coverage usually leads to warpage.