Tpt life

It’s more about the frequency of removal if they are screw bins that you like to take down and then return after use, driving new screws each time is a time waster.

Good to know.

I am struggling to understand if you are wanting to do more than ease edges. Easing edges for painting is super simple and quick for MDF by hand with a sanding sponge. You barely need to remove anything, just the “sharp.” MDF sucks paint in so coverage is not an issue. The fragile edge might be a concern with rough handling, but not installed. If you truly want a round profile, then the guys are right. If not, the power tool is noisy and sometimes more of a hassle.

Read above post...very clearly delineated.

The OP asked why one or the other. This gets a bit tiring offering ease of use and better first cut results just to have someone offer what they “can” do. In that vein I want to stick with just easier and better first pass. Dado...enough said. Tenon by jig or over dado...enough said. I will never get rid of my miter saw. I love it for trim and stick framing. For a lot of other things I get a better first approach on the TS.

To Rob’s point and in response to Nut...while most have stops for partial cuts, those stops are often finicky leaving rough cuts.

Yeah, your vision is somewhat limited Coop. Small squares are good for framing as tolerances are somewhat more forgiving. People want bigger squares for a couple of other things (right or wrong.) Big squares help with tool setup and alignment sometimes. MFT and table saw both feature heavily in that conversation. Bigger squares also give a longer registration surface when checking large cases for square. I think that is something missed in the discussion quite often. Just like using a long straight edge to span the cutter head and check jointer tables to make them coplaner, sometimes you want a bigger square to span across curves or mortises. I don’t want to step into the value argument. I simply see some desire for bigger at times, and no need for it for vast amounts of other time.

This is default for me. Number one, that is a hangover from my father’s habits. Number two, I see more students in a day than I could ever hope to call by name. Sir a ma’am get better responses from middle school students than most other things besides their given name.

This is completely dependent on design and makes your statement conditionally accurate. The California Air and Rolair both have oil free designs that are supremely quiet and not short lived. I own CA, Mick owns R...trust us or don’t. Just know these are a different style of operation. EDIT: I don’t propose these for continuous use. I am specifically recommending this for the uses mentioned. I don’t roof or frame with my CA except on my own house on my own. I air tires, blow dust out of tools, and run trim all over with it.

I would not get that pancake. They are noisy as a bawling calf. I have been more pleased with the bigger brother of this model. This model is also in that sub $100 range California Air Tools CAT-1P1060S Light & Quiet Portable Air Compressor, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYHYHEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jXehBbKB5MQVD

Here, I just didn’t have lots of time earlier. You want a half moon washer you can run a regular nut against. Depending on the occupants of the bed, nylock or other vibration resistant nuts might be wise. This again is likely not what you want exactly, but finding exactly what you want just takes time and Google-fu. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/33920

Just look at the half moon. You get better purchase that way even if you need to spin a nut. Try a hardware supplier.

Not the best quality, but look at the image. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pack-of-4-Replacement-Bolts-110-mm-Long-1-4-Thread-4-Half-Moon-Crescent-Lunar-Threaded-Nuts-Included-Best-for-Made-in-Brazil-Beds-and-Bunk-Beds/331333871?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228148069565&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=256536263442&wl4=pla-451696576284&wl5=9016241&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=331333871&wl13=&veh=sem

I have seen hickory like that. Also no known gumminess. I wonder if you cut that wound crotch side first and got someone’s home remedy on the blade. Out of curiosity, is it just dust in the circle?

By running the glue edge on the jointer until it is straight. That can be tricky with such long beams.