Tpt life

I’d mic everything as it comes out and compare it to the new head. I have no experience with that planer, but you want to be absolutely certain of tolerances regarding bearings etc. if you cannot find a swap already completed, looking for parts lists so that you can evaluate bearings and shaft sizes is always good confirmation.

Always sand after sanding sealer. It’s in the name. It’s a quasi pore filler of sorts.

Did you sand after the sanding sealer? It is designed to fill the open grain so that color applied after absorbs more evenly. All the dark areas look like end grain.

This is backwards in my opinion. Spend on the recommended unit, then if you do not use it enough...you know they resell at a high value.

So the door looks good from the hallway as well. MDF allows for some movement concerns as I would fasten the outer layers together through the MDF.

Not sure where you get that Ross. My glass sliding doors at my house are heavier than that panel would be in most species. I can move them with my pinky. The high end hardware for them is a twenty dollar bearing assembly (two per door) that I likely could have trimmed cost had I known how to source the correct bearing alone. Do you have experience with barn slider kits that are that poor?

I’d make a sandwich. MDF core, with opposite angle boards on the back.

Virginia Creeper.

Always good to verify. They stand behind the QC process and will work with you if anything is off. Irons come sharp enough to use, but not as sharp as possible. Does that answer enough for you?

The vine that color this season here is poison ivy.

Full disclosure, I am a band director by day right now. The wear areas are the top corner of the shelf. I’d recommend metal edge guides. The second most wear is scuff along the bottom as feet fall off of cases. Just additional thoughts as I am around those cabinets in their use every day.

This is going to be a case by case sort of issue that none of us can really comment on without being there. Urethane does not burn in, so if there is any chance curing to gloss happened on the surface, you are just knocking the gloss back as well as providing some mechanical tooth. Four or five passes are fine in my experience, but the whole surface should be treated evenly per the manufacturers specs. If there is a problem, it’s always best to follow those specs.

I have been following Tal for over a decade. She started with Beck about that long ago. She is no fake, if anything is over dubbed and makes you doubt.

Tal Wilkenfeld.

With trusses on block, I’d lift the whole roof and build the block higher. The roof is already braced for shear on top. You need a simple wall on either side that can be jacked and lifts the whole side together. Houses are done like this a lot to fix foundations and sagging porches. You are simply moving higher and lifting much less weight. Tom is absolutely correct that the only limiting factor is how the sill is anchored to the block. If cost is not much of a factor, you can hire the block work out if you like. My two cents.