Tpt life

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Everything posted by Tpt life

  1. -From Grizzly's site- Where are your machines manufactured? Our machines are manufactured in several countries, but the majority of them come from Taiwan. We have dealt with factories in Taiwan for more than twenty-five years and have two offices with quality control engineers in Taiwan and China. Typically Taiwanese export machining is a higher grade than Chinese export. This may be splitting hairs since many do not differentiate Taiwan and China but as a rule of thumb I would push away from Chinese manufacture in favor of Taiwanese if those were the two options. The part that concerns me and has me following this thread: is this a casting or a machining issue? If the machining does not meet your spec then this is a personal preference issue and finer machining can certainly be found. If though you are dealing with castings that are warping post machining then I would really question any further castings from that run. I do not even know how to research casting batches out of Taiwan. I hope this all works out for you.
  2. +1 for French cleating across the studs for modular mobility.
  3. Frame ups can happen one stick at a time. A treated 2x4 sill on the floor, even just a four foot length, and a top plate with a stud or two can easily be added to in the future. Especially since this is your long range goal I would consider an option like this. If you screw things together you can pull it apart and glue the bottom later if you are nervous about getting too far ahead of things.
  4. My wife wants my time, my kids want my time, my boss wants my time, and I'm usually on a budget. This doesn't help me struggle less it just leaves me frustrated at times. I'm amazed at how right my father was when he used to say "You and I are the only people who will notice that Bud."
  5. In the paint shop I worked for several moons ago, we never "sanding sealed" pre-sanding. We sealed post-sanding and only knocked down rough spots after sealing before staining/finishing. I was not the one making the plans but I have used products this way ever since with good success. Are there some applications where sealing is done pre-sanding?
  6. For ceiling application I would use rubber roofing material between the hat and the joist and would use panhead screws with rubber washers. The sheetrock is then screwed through the hat and not the framing. This provides the best sound insulative value as vibration does not transmit efficiently through the rubber. You could achieve the same with furring strips but the channel minimizes surface to surface contact. A lot of builders do not install systems in a way that allows the system to do its job. One of the most common mistakes is to use hat and then screw the sheet into the framing anyway. I have seen this in a lot of demo work. It is self defeating and would lead to inefficiency.
  7. Cheap ($20 ish?) Stanley block plane. First type I bought years ago. Very thin iron and non-adjustable mouth. Not my first choice now that I have used others but not worthless.
  8. Thanks all for the input. I think my questions are answered.
  9. Seems to be a good site but I only found it today so I would not swear by it.
  10. The pics I saw earlier looked oak to me.
  11. $120.00 HVLP with Rockler on the side. I've been raised to think that if it sounds to good to be true, then it probably is. Thoughts? Experience with this system?
  12. This is a comment that in many homes is out of place but here goes... Bang for buck, a suspended acoustical tile or drop ceiling provides a high level of sound insulation in connection with plain old fiberglass batting.
  13. AndyF If you are looking for sound insulation value and are hanging drywall, you should look into investing in hat track designed for this kind of noise transfer situation. The drywall screwed directly to the framing actually promotes a lot of transfer and is self defeating.
  15. Great video that I can't quickly find. It was a guitar manufacturer talking about using ebony that is not truly black and thus extremely less wasteful. I like this approach in its caution without throwing the baby out with the bath water. I think that for mass production, certain species cannot be sustained. For special regulated use though? I think we are intelligent enough to use sparingly if we stay in community like this with colleagues to hold us to account.
  16. Found this Here's what I was told by a correspondant to my wood ID web site: Correspondant Pete Morrison tells me that working mango is very similar to working with maple and that it is not a very hard or tight-grained wood and can be quite dusty when sanding. No problems with dulling tools and takes finishes quite well but the wood may chip if worked too agressively. At this link
  17. What he said... The trick is not expecting zero movement but rather planning on it to align parts so they move together.
  18. The link is to a picture of a white bearded balding gentleman sitting in a kitchen. If this is what you wanted your test worked well.
  19. Watch the video and be impressed. Short story, he supports the shoulder vise for use in dovetailing long boards or performing other end grain functions.
  20. No time to watch the videos right now but this looks promising.
  21. I learned this morning in another thread that this is a known Scandinavian design. I was unsure whether to challenge the French label as today is the first I have researched Scandinavian vise design.
  22. Enjoying the humor! On the flip side, is the instability due to partial assembly? There are wedged through tenons that usually are used to allow for knock down later using only a mallet. I do not think it worth the price unless it is truly antique but if the tenons and wedges were cut right it is possible a few taps of a mallet would draw the design together. Big IF...