PeteJr

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About PeteJr

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 02/18/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    .Western New York
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, Cabinets, Moldings and Trim, Windows

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  1. I plan to resume working on this project by mid-summer 2017.
  2. Rail & Stile Dimensioning: All six windows will be 66" tall and making the stiles is the same process for all six windows. The Window width (four at 36" wide and two at 28" wide) however requires appropriately sized rails. In this next section I'll show how to determined the finished length for the rails taking into account the tenons and the edge profile. The router bit set I'm using is the Window Sash Jr. #55-802 from Infinity Tools and it's the proper set for making thinner (up to 1 1/4") sash. Here's a look at the tooling. These pics are from the Infinity Tools website. The rails for the 36" wide windows are 33 1/2" wide and those for the 28" wide windows are 25 1/2" wide. Here's how I arrived at these. Width of the window is 36” Subtract 5” for the two side stiles (2 x 2 ½”) - Equals 31” Add ½” back - the width of the two side profiles (2 x ¼”) Equals 31 ½” Add 2” back – the width of the two tenons ( 2 x 1”) Equals 33 ½” Width of the window is 28” Subtract 5” for the two side stiles (2 x 2 ½”) Equals 23” Add ½” back - the width of the two side profiles (2 x ¼”) Equals 23 ½” Add 2” back – the width of the tenons ( 2 x 1”) Equals 25 ½ These dimensions are specific to the router bits I'm using.
  3. Material preparation. The wood I selected was Poplar. My experience with poplar has taught me it's easy to machine and takes paint very well. I'll use an exterior oil based paint to finish these and hopefully they will last a long time. I selected 6/4 rough sawn poplar from Bristol Valley Hardwoods in Bristol, NY. I borrowed my son in laws new F150 King Cab and hauled 100 bd ft about 70 miles back to my workshop. It was a beautiful Autumn day for a drive and at $2.60 a bd ft it was a very good deal. Here's the steps I followed to prep the 8 foot lengths: rough cut the poplar for the stiles and rails on the miter saw 68" for the stiles 35" & 27" for the rails since two of the windows are narrower used an 8" jointer to surface one face side and one edge square to the face ripped the 5" to 6" wide pieces in half and jointed the one sawn edge of each piece let the pieces sit for a few days in the shop and double checked for movement - everything stayed straight planed each piece to 1 1/4" thick ripped each piece to 2 1/2" wide - the Freud LM72R010 rip blade resulted in a very fine surface so I did not joint the sawn edge afterwards trimmed one end of each piece to 90 degrees and marked that end with some chalk Here's a few pictures of the process:
  4. Here's the motivation and this is what I'm building. Six storm windows in all for the front of our home. They will be in pairs and will be placed over cottage style double hung windows. The windows will be approximately 66" tall with four at 36" wide and two at 28" wide. Each window will have 12 individual lites with authentic muntins. For me the divided lite window with muntins offers the challenge of learning new skills, acquiring some new tooling, working with and learning from others and producing something both useful and architecturally pleasing.
  5. Over a year ago I purchased the materials and tooling however the Emerald Ash Borer interrupted everything. So after felling over 30 trees and cleaning up the property I'm ready to start the windows. Marc recommended I document this as a Project Journal. Should be interesting.
  6. I will continue to prefer and use our forum.
  7. To do the glue-up I assembled the column without glue then wrapped 5 bands of wide blue painters tape around the perimeter. Then I opened the column and laid it down on the bench with the tape holding the staves in place. Picture a tambour door laid flat. After applying glue to the edges of the staves with a small brush I rolled the staves into a column and secured it with the clamps. Perhaps there is a better way to apply the glue. By the time I applied glue to all the edges I was approaching the recommended open time. I used one corner clamp in the center of the column (8 jaws total, one applying pressure against each stave) and band clamps near each end. The birds mouth joint is self centering and facilitates aligning the staves. Actually I'm not sure how to make a tapered column with the birds mouth bit. I've seen pictures of tapered columns and they have a graceful/elegant look so I'd like to incorporate it into the next table. Sign and dated it is!
  8. Ventilate as much as possible for the first 24-48 hours and you should be fine.
  9. Here's the column view of the finished table. Next time the column will have a taper from bottom to top.
  10. The geared/equalizing slide from Osborne is very well made and smooth as silk. Moved some of the table top mounting holes because the predrilled holes fell on a glue line (plugged with a 1/2" dowel).
  11. One coat of satin will significantly change the sheen. Make sure you stir the satin finish well and often during use. I speak from experience on this!
  12. Tabletop components in the making. Left two will be 12" leaves. Right two are the main tabletop, right and left side.