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  1. TimWood - I do have a dust collector. I am wondering whether you are wondering whether I could use this to capture sanding dust. I have thought about this, but have not tried it for a few reasons: the shop setup would make it a little difficult; the dust collector is absolutely maxed out in current setup, often with two users; and finally, I thought I read somewhere that the airflow from a dust collector is different from the type used for a downdraft table (I could be completely wrong about this...). I guess a better way to have posted originally would have been to ask how people manage the fine dust from sanding...I guess the dream answer would be to convert to Festool sanders with integrated dust systems. Alas, the budget, and more importantly, the second shop user, would not allow this. thanks for the reply.
  2. I am considering purchasing a downdraft table, probably either the Grizzly H2935 or H2936. I cannot find many reviews on these units online, and wondered what the collective wisdom of woodtalk might be able to come up with. My motivation to purchase a downdraft table is to deal with sanding dust. For about half the year, weather allows sanding outside, which is my preferred option. When sanding inside, I cannot always contain the dust at the source (e.g., belt sanding, some of my ROS, even hand sanding). I would be curious to hear the pros and cons of downdraft tables, and whether I should be looking at other units. As a final point, I have considered building one, but realistically, it is not going to happen (too many other projects to do). thanks.
  3. I am hoping that some of you might be willing to share opinions regarding any disadvantages to adding end caps on both ends of a top slab, rather than only capping the wagon vise end. -thanks
  4. For me, it was an easy choice: table saw (Ridgid TS3650). If I had to do it again, I would go with a Grizzly 3hp cabinet saw. That's just me though. Perhaps the opinions being shared here would be more helpful if you described the kind of projects you do. I do not have an MFT, but the versatility, accuracy, reliability and ease of use of a table saw seem hard to beat.
  5. dramhadhmad

    HVLP Questions

    As another option, the Earlex (5000 or 5500) HVLP has worked very well for me, for several years and countless gallons of finish (Shellac and General Finishes waterbourne). Total cost, including turbine is ~$300.
  6. FineWoodWorking and PopularWoodWorking (both indispensable!), together with Wood magazine (perilously close to useless, and definitely not getting renewed).
  7. One additional concern, perhaps especially relevant to spraying in a garage: make sure your environment has as little dust as possible. The HVLP will gradually cause any dust in the room to become airborne, which will then settle onto your projects. My early forays with spraying were in a garage, and as the day went on, the amount of dust kicked up continued to increase. Now, I try to spray outside (which works for ~8 months/year), usually using shellac + GF HP with an earlex unit. When I cannot spray outside, I often make a temporary (very simple) spray booth (thin poly sheets stapled to the ceiling, creating a ~4-sided tent).
  8. My experiences have been very positive with Purebond, with a couple of caveats. I have built ~20 cabinet carcasses (kitchen and bathroom) using Purebond plywood, and would certainly use it again. I had no problems with delamination nor veneer quality (the face veneer is rather thin). Importantly, I used the 3/4 Maple (~$60/sheet; ~B2-grade), which is now no longer stocked at most/all HDs (it can be special ordered). I choose to use it based on price and estimated quality (I was not disappointed). Personally, I would not use the 3/4 ~$40 Birch (~C3 grade, widely available at HDs) for cabinet construction, nor have I ever used Purebond products for door panels (I ordered higher-grade stuff from a specialty plywood store, and was happy to pay the increased costs).