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mdbuilder last won the day on July 29

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  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture building

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  1. Done dovetailing the base, on to making the template to mark out the curved cuts.
  2. I sawed the tails and removed most of the waste on the long front board this morning. Tonight I'll chisel to the base line and do the pins on the front of the side boards. Might get to the template I need to mark out the arches on all 4 base pieces for band sawing out the waste. The big knot on the back board is in the waste for instance
  3. Found a piece from my thicknessed stack large enough and with an OK color match to the front to cut a new left side from. For the right side I needed to go to a fresh board and do the complete milling evolution. Anyway, both now cut to the correct length and ready to start over
  4. Grrrr! I made an error, cut the side pieces for the base 3/4" short . The front and back are perfect, Unless someone has a method to make the sides longer they will be going on the firewood pile...
  5. Tool recommendation of the day. At the beginning of this project I picked up 2 new sawblades from Ridge Carbide. One was a flat top blade ground for a dovetail angle, nice but what can you say? The other is their 10" 48 tooth TS2000 Ultra Combo blade. WOW, this thing really cuts cleanly. The 21" crosscuts on the top panel was flawless. It'll also cut plywood with zero chip out on the bottom and the cut is polished. Anyway, just thought I'd pass that along. Expensive but they really perform.
  6. The top is done, I had a bit of a drum sander incident. When you hear a tic-tic sound evidently it is a sign your paper is about wore out . When it did wear out I wound up with a pretty significant burnt gouge on one side of the top. Anyway, changed to 120 grit and sanded a bit further than I was planning to to remove the damage. The top is now .71 inches instead of .75. Gentle rounding off still to come... Also glued the stock for the cove to a carrier board to make the routing a little safer and sanded to 5/8 thick. This molding will make the transition from the base to the case.
  7. Glue up for the top, 21"*40" is the target size. I've got about 5/8 of extra length, we'll see how this works out. Would not normally cut is so close but the plank the 3 pieces came from was 122'ish inches long.
  8. This thing is getting heavy! After wrestling it to the floor I cleaned up the sides with a #5 set very fine. I wiped them down with some paint thinner to get an idea what it will look like. Not too shabby I think.
  9. That may be a while, guessing at least a month to finish construction. 80 or so dovetails in the drawers... Slowly working my way across the back, drill the countersink for the screws, drill the bigger clearance for the shank, cleanup the faces with the #4, pop in a couple of shims to set the spacing and drill the 2 holes top and bottom. Then of course you need to run in a steel screw with the impact driver, back it out and replace with the brass screw