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Everything posted by mdbuilder

  1. This thing is getting heavy! After wrestling it to the floor I cleaned up the sides with a #5 set very fine. I wiped them down with some paint thinner to get an idea what it will look like. Not too shabby I think.
  2. That may be a while, guessing at least a month to finish construction. 80 or so dovetails in the drawers... Slowly working my way across the back, drill the countersink for the screws, drill the bigger clearance for the shank, cleanup the faces with the #4, pop in a couple of shims to set the spacing and drill the 2 holes top and bottom. Then of course you need to run in a steel screw with the impact driver, back it out and replace with the brass screw
  3. Yep, I have one of the Earlex 5000 multistage (3 I think) LVLP units
  4. The inside of the case and everything on the drawers except the front face get 2 coats on 1.5 pound cut shellac. The outside gets 3 coats of natural Danish oil and 2 coats of Waterlox.
  5. I think I will take those 2 darker boards and alternate them with the lighter boards. Opinions?
  6. Starting on the back which are a 6 & 5/8 wide ship lapped arrangement.
  7. LOL, upon further study the designer actually calls for 5/16+ on both the drawer bottoms AND the dust partitions. I think I'll leave the latter as is an try a little re-sawing when I get the the drawer bottoms.
  8. Well, the simple answer is the plan calls for a half inch so I followed what the designer called for . On the other hand, your observation about weight is good. The partitions are purely cosmetic rather than structural so lighter is good. Also, you want the drawers to slide easily and touch only on the drawer sides sliding on the runners. If the partitions were full thickness the back of the drawer and bottom would potentially make contact?
  9. Sorry, one more pic now that all three partitions and rear rails are planed. Just love the way the light glints.
  10. Yes, MD Select is my normal guy. I've occasionally gotten a grade B board when I come across it in the pile, depending on the size of parts you need they can be OK. Generally more knots so you are not going to get a 5 or 6 foot part out of it. Also, not sure how much B stuff he regularly stocks. You might want to call first and ask how much B grade he has for whatever species you are looking for. He is on the net:
  11. I understand :). My normal guy I go to the regular A grades of black cherry, red (soft) maple, hard maple and red ambrosia maple are all $4.95 per board foot for the A grade 4/4 size with poplar being $2.50 for 6-8" wide A grade. The alternate place I found the cheaper poplar has a more limited selection and air dries it. For a $1.20 a BFI couldn't pass it up <g>.
  12. After the initial fit up of the partitions now I am on to cleaning things up as I go. Poplar planes beautifully. I've been final thicknessing everything with my new drum sander which works great but the 80 grit paper leaves some prominent sanding grooves. They come off quickly in 2 or 3 passes leaving a rather nice ready for finish surface.
  13. Agreed, they add a lot at the cost of a little labor. The wood was dirt cheap, I bought 38 4 foot + 4/4 boards from a local sawyer a couple weeks ago for 1.20 a board foot.
  14. Dust dividers are done, thickness sanded to just under a half inch and panels raised on the radial arm saw. I'll hit them with a smoother for final fitting to the case.
  15. Match jointing a couple 1/2"+ poplar boards to glue up for a dust partition. Woodriver #6
  16. LoL The shop is appr. 600 square feet in the basement, 9 foot to the bottom of the joists. Admittedly 3 RAS's is excessive, by 1 I'd say. Can't go wrong with 2 as then you can set one up for dado's leaving the other for the odd cross cut. Anyway, the dark blue one is my main machine. The little mbf was the first one I got, lovely machine but underpowered at only a 1/2 hp. It sits in the corner, doesn't take up much space and only rarely used. The light blue one came after the other two, the motor had failed on the mbf so it was going to be a replacement until someone mailed me a replacement motor for cheap. All the things were dirt cheap, $125 or less per saw...
  17. I've got all the internal slidy parts installed. There are some dust panels the slide in the grooves still to fab, I may start on the milling for those this weekend. Other than that, the main box is done - on to the base before tackling the drawers.
  18. So, when it came time to fill the case with internal parts I needed my tenon cutting jig. I own one of those classic Delta cast iron things that fits in the miter slot on the table saw. Somewhere! Can't find it though -grrr! What's a guy to do? Well, I do own 3 radial arm saws :). So I used one for cross cutting to length, one for tenon cuts and on with a stop block to make the cheek cuts. The blue saws are 196x Era, the green one is a 1957 MBF.
  19. Time for glue up. 15 minutes of sheer terror, racing the glues open time to get it all applied and assembled. The last two corners took some persuasion to seat
  20. Thanks, after the the half blinds came the sliding dovetails for the rails.
  21. I started with the tails on the main box panels. Tails were cut on the table saw with a blade ground to a 7 degree top angle. For the pin / half blind side I sawed to the line then removed some waste with the drill press and picked up the chisels. That went fine for a couple of corners, when I got to corner3 I ran into some wild grain diving towards the outside of the case so I resorted to the router with a straight bit and a guide bushing after chopping out the first 3/16 of depth.