lildesertwoodshop Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 I have a client that would like a bookshelf (10' x 4' 12" Deep multiple shelves simple contemporary style) He is looking for a Walnut vibe. As price point has not been established , I would like to offer him some scenarios A) build the whole thing from solid Walnut, Walnut Veneer over MDF, C Use oak with a Walnut Stain. OK so heres The rub, Its positioned over his fireplace ( dimension from the fireplace TBD at this time) My questions are is there a scenario A,B,C that would be a better choice given the heat issue, and as well the best finish to use on the best choice? Thanx for any input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 I would consider walnut plywood over the MDF. Fireplace areas have a roof penetration that might leak someday. I have used the cement tile backer board and a spacer as protection behind wood casework and a fireplace. Look for code or other guidelines as to distances from prefab metal fire boxes and flue pipes then exceed those spec's . If it is a masonry fireplace I would think a 3/4 airspace behind your bookcase should be plenty. Also think about heat and sparks coming up the front from the firebox. A friends wife caught a dried flower arrangement on the mantle on fire with the heat and sparks from a roaring fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 " Look for code or other guidelines as to distances from prefab metal fire boxes and flue pipes then exceed those spec's ." First thing to do! I wanted to build a wooden fire surround at home but the distances from the appliance and flue was not enough to comply with building regulations or guidelines provided with the appliance. So no wooden fire surround for me! If the above checks out solid will be a gamble. Reduce the risk by looking for quarter sawn timber. This will be less likely to bow. Also if you use solid put it in the room with the fire place to really dry out before preparing the timber. MDF or Ply Would be a safer bet. If it was me I would roll the dice on solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 I was thinking a mixture of solid wood and walnut ply would be the best choice. Ply shelves with a solid wood edge, ply case with a solid wood face frame and trim. 1/4 ply back. Far less wood movement to worry about with a ply case. If cost becomes an issue alder with a walnut stain looks pretty good. We use red birch ply with solid alder all the time as a cost saving alternative. Alder ply is hard to find and costs as much as cherry or walnut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildesertwoodshop Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Thanx all for the advise, I will begin exploring the code issues. As per more information on the fireplace, Its a cinder block construction built into the wall, framed out with 2x4 , covered with Drywall and an Knockdown texture. The location is in AZ. so general climate is dry and in the summer is really F*@%#^ ing DRY. Have an onsite meeting later in the week to hone in on actual design, price structure, and such and will probably have a few more questions then. Thanx all for you time and expertise !! Lil DWS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Sounds like the only worry will be heat from the front. The masonry, framing and drywall should be plenty behind the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotheads Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 For clearance to the fireplace, you'll want to consult NFPA 211, the code which governs solid fuel burning appliances like fireplaces. Any part of the bookshelf which projects 3/4" or less from the fireplace face is considered a "facing," and any part projecting more than 3/4" is considered a "mantel." Having worked in the hearth industry for better than 15 years, I have seen the unfortunate results of ignoring the proper clearances. As far as what material to use, if you maintain the proper clearances, in theory, heat should have little or no effect on even solid wood. I think that you would probably be better off to use either plywood or veneered MDF, though, since there will still be a good amount of heat when the fireplace is used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildesertwoodshop Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Dan Thanx for the info, I found this and am getting that If I stay 12" away from the top of the fireplace opening Im ok, am I correct in thinking this ? Thanx lil DWS FirePlace Mantels Building Codes - National Standard 2114.3.10 All combustible mantels and similar trim shall be kept at least 6 inches from fireplace opening. Parts of the mantel assembly located along the sides of the fireplace opening, which project more than 1-1/2 inches (38mm) from the face of the fireplace, shall have additional clearance equal to the projection. Parts of the mantel assembly located above and projecting more than 1-1/2 inches (38mm) from the fireplace opening shall not be placed less than 12 inches (305mm) from the top of the fireplace opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopnhack Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Bookcases or built ins on either side of a fireplace I have seen everyday, but over a fireplace I have not. Do you have a sketch of what the client wants? I'm just curious as to what that looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildesertwoodshop Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Chopnhack, At this time, Im waiting to have an onsite with him to finalize a design, The basic premiss that has been discussed so far is a Simple contemporary look , Full unit to be 10' wide x 4' Tall, filled with all shelves 8-10" Deep , some vertical dividers, no doors , with the addition of a rolling ladder in the future, Walnut Tones overall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcustoms Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 This diagram shows clearances per the NFPA. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildesertwoodshop Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 dcustoms Yup great I get it now thanx so much!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopnhack Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Chopnhack, At this time, Im waiting to have an onsite with him to finalize a design, The basic premiss that has been discussed so far is a Simple contemporary look , Full unit to be 10' wide x 4' Tall, filled with all shelves 8-10" Deep , some vertical dividers, no doors , with the addition of a rolling ladder in the future, Walnut Tones overall. Best of luck, I hope you get the job. Keep us all posted, I would love to see this in progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotheads Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 If you go by the graphic dcustoms posted, you should be fine. Obviously, the farther the shelving projects from the fireplace, the more clearance you need. Ultimately, you should have the local code enforcement office sign off on the final design. This will protect both you and your client. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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