Are new block planes under $100 really unusable?


chrisphr

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I doubt I had to spend more than 10 minutes tuning any of my block planes.  I can't think of even a large plane that I've spent an hour on-includes 2-3s, a 4, 4-1/2,5,two 6s, 7, and 8. .  All have gone through some number of grits of wet-or-dry on the surface plate, to a polished sole, but even on the ones that need a lot of work, it doesn't take that long.  I do have one 6 that I never got all of the front flat on, but it just has one angle from a 1/2" on the right front to nothing at the mouth that doesn't quite touch.  It works fine though for a deep cut 6.  The other 6 takes a lighter cut, and didn't take long at all to lap completely.  A small part of what I do for a living includes using these planes.  I think the new in the box, old stock, Record 7C is the only one I've paid over a hundred bucks for, and I paid 135 for that one. Even though I get to deduct whatever I spend on tools, I still don't spend money I don't need to.

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I've had the same block plane for at least 12 years.  It's not a name brand, not sure I even can remember what brand it is.  I bought it off the shelf at the local big box and while I can't remember what I paid for it I'd be shocked if it was more than $20.  Not knowing any better, I used it right out of the box with out honing the blade or doing any more than adjusting the depth.  I've since sharpened the blade as needed but I know the sole has never been lapped.  I've done some amazing things with that plane, have no intention of replacing it and can't see a need to get any of the more expensive version, at least not in the near future, other than to say that I have one.

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I got to use my Veritas low angle block plane today in real world conditions. I got the regular version, not the streamlined one. I did pop for the high tech steel blade! Out of the box , no sharpening or tweaking at all. Curly maple drawer fronts on inset cabinets, shaved the edges with no tearout. Regular maple door frames on inset cabinets was a breeze. Painted Douglas fir exterior doors that were sticking shaved beautiful curls and in seconds the door would shut without sticking. I adjusted it to take a slightly thicker cut in seconds, it was precise and worked beautifully.

Did I spend a lot on a plane? Yes! Was it worth it to get the job done with a tool that behaves like you always wished it would? Yes!

Was the client impressed when I shaved the front door? Yes!

I will try to post after I sharpen it for the first time. It is supposed to be easier to sharpen and stay sharp longer.

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What do you think of those wooden planes? Japan woodworker seems to have a nice selection at fairly affordable prices. The videos make them look great. They have cheap ones and real expensive versions.

 Not sure PB but wooden planes are difficult to get a really low angle on. I don't think that there are any historical examples of very low angle wooden planes and checking the Japan Woodworker site they are all quite high pitches. To get the benefit of low angle and bevel up I think metal is the only option.

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I bought a brand new Stanley Sweet Heart block at Rockler, after taking it apart to clean it up, the movable mouth was out of register. There was steel swarf under it when it was ground so when I cleaned it up, the mouth was too low in the body. I took it back and bought a Lie Nielsen and have been very happy since.

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