wdwerker Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 I got 2 solid core door slabs today for a project. A client wants to be able to close off a hallway when they have weekend guests. So we are hanging (2) 36"wide x 96" tall doors from a sliding track at the top. I was surprised to find out the core of the doors is MDF and I need to screw the hardware into the top of the door. I know putting screws into the edge of MDF is not a good idea. I can only think of 2 possible solutions , drill a big hole and glue a dowel at each location or drill a 5mm hole and use those euro screws that are supposed to be used on particle board and MDF. The doors weigh 86 lbs each and I have 6 screw locations for the hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 I would cut a big dado in the tops, as deep as your longest router bit, and glue in a piece of hardwood wide enough to more than cover the Johnson roller mounts. The wood in the edges of those doors is pretty soft anyway, and I have never had, and don't want, a callback. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 I thought about that but gluing the hardwood to the MDF isn't the strongest connection either. Thankfully it's a paint grade job so I could put a row of pin nails in from both sides. It's only 15 pounds per fastener so the weight isn't too serious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Don't the doors have Birch skins? I wouldn't be worried about just the weight, but a dynamic load from someone closing the doors together too hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Yea I guess I could cut all the way to the birch skin and fit a strip of hardwood in. Both doors slide to one side. The hardware is pretty neat. The doors open progressively ,you pull one door and they both open with a stop/ catch at full open and closed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumbles1982 Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 2 options spring to mind for me: 1: get some of those drywall picture frame hanging do-dads. Screw the really course thread anchor bits into the MDF (pilot holes drilled first) and the line the hardware up with the anchor bits. This method will depend on the head type of the drywall screws. The hanging hardware may require a chamfered screw but the drywall screws may have a flat head. 2: just use the hardware and screws that you have but drill pilot holes only slightly smaller than your screws and pour in a small amount of epoxy or other strong glue into the pilots before you screw in the actual fastening screws. You'll need to be able to do this before its hanged so that the glue has time to set. Hopes this helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Yea I guess I could cut all the way to the birch skin and fit a strip of hardwood in. Both doors slide to one side. The hardware is pretty neat. The doors open progressively ,you pull one door and they both open with a stop/ catch at full open and closed.Can you post a link to the tack hardware, or is it something new by Johnson? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 McFeely's sells some purpose-made MDF fasteners. Don't know if they address your problem, but worth taking a look... http://www.mcfeelys.com/confirmat-mdf-screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 I have the 5mm by 40 mm screws, I might try that and harden the MDF with some glue . The hardware is made in Chile.It was about $400 . I got it from Richielu . No web info and just a tiny set of instructions with mostly pictures. It uses pulleys ,nylon cord, special hardware and clamps to tie the 2 doors together at the top and bottom. Both doors get a groove in the bottom, one rides on a floor guide and the other one rides a guide that holds them apart. I will take some pictures and maybe a video when I get them hung. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 ==> I might try that and harden the MDF with some glue . I should have mentioned that... It's what I do. I mix some 206, fill a glue syringe and inject into each hole... If it's really critical, I let the glue cure, then drill a pilot for the screw in the epoxy plug... As a side note: For marine deck fittings that don't require through anchoring/bolting, the usual process is to bore a hole a bit bigger then the fastener, inject 205 with 404 bonding filler. The stuff cures like concrete*. You then drill and tap the epoxy for the hardware... The process is termed 'hardware bonding'. West systems has an application note on various hardware reinforcement methods... Worth a look: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-hardware/ *Note, you don't want squeeze-out with this mix. When cured, 404 (and to a lesser extent, 406) really is like stone. Sanding/scraping/etc is really tough going and very hard on edge tools. You really don't want to run glue lines over jointer/planer knives (don't ask me how I know)... If you want sand-ability after cure, look at 405 (my go to filler). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Ding Ding Ding ! We have a winner! Perfect solution and much easier than cutting out the MDF etc. Heading to the shop to get started drilling and gluing ! Many thanks ! It sure is great to be able to bounce problems off of guys who have such a diverse set of skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 ==> West systems has an application note on various hardware reinforcement methods... Want to expand on this... West System has over a hundred application notes on various uses/techniques/etc for epoxy resins. They are really worth a quick glance -- it's amazing just how clever and creative folks can be... The hardware bonding application note is as good a place as any to start... http://www.westsyste...nding-hardware/ And for you DIY types: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/stabilizing-concrete-block-wall-foundation/ BTW: I've used this method myself and it works great... For more creating ideas on home repair: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/garbage-disposal-repair-with-epoxy/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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