estesbubba Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 So building my new shop is getting closer to becoming a reality but still some things to iron out. It will be a 30x40 pole barn and I'm going to insulate it myself. Part of the walls I plan to use slatwall as its much better than pegboard for hanging stuff. I'm looking for ideas on what to do for the rest of the walls? A steel ceiling installed will be around $1500. I don't know if a steel ceiling is a good option for a woodworking shop? I might be a pain for running electrical and lights after installed but I don't know. What about for mounting lights and running dust collection on it? Again, looking for recommendations for ceiling options. If anyone has any good links or resources for building a woodworking shop I would appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I had the trusses in my building designed to carry the load of running 2x6s between them (16"oc) and then hung drywall. This made it easier to insulate as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Unless your planning on keeping it warm all the time in the winter I would rethink metal ceiling. I have seen what happens and there have several posts on here about condensation. Cold ceiling, warm air = rain in the shop. JMO. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Unless your planning on keeping it warm all the time in the winter I would rethink metal ceiling. I have seen what happens and there have several posts on here about condensation. Cold ceiling, warm air = rain in the shop. JMO. Also, I imagine it would make a noisy shop unbearable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Good points about the steel. So what would you recommended in place of it? Particleboard, plywood, ...? I've never worked with drywall and don't know how much of a pain it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I put up drywall with zero experience. Watch some YouTube videos, rent a drywall lift, and get a friend to help. It's pretty easy if you don't want a perfect finish. [Edit: FatBaron reminded me that you also need a screw gun.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Drywall is a mixed bag. If you want a great finish, budget $400-700 to pay a finisher. Unless you finish with some regularity, they will save you days if not Weeks of time. If you do not need a great finish, all you need for fire coding is taped joints. You can do this yourself but I find for most people it is tricky to learn on a ceiling. Even if my estimate is off for your region, drywall should be cheaper. With regard to steel ceilings: A lot depends on ceiling height and insulation. I worked 7 years on a grounds crew in a garage that was all metal skinned pole barn. We had huge heat and humidity fluctuation and the concrete wept. The steel did not. I think weeping steel is mostly a concern when the roof is steel and there is no ceiling. I pulled bats along the steel ceiling after it was hung. Easy peasy. Steel "siding" is not rated to be structural in most locations. This means you will still need to anchor all your fixtures and pipe to framing. The biggest detractor to steel in my opinion is the noise. The steel will absorb almost nothing. The noise will bounce right back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Crawford Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Unless your planning on keeping it warm all the time in the winter I would rethink metal ceiling. I have seen what happens and there have several posts on here about condensation. Cold ceiling, warm air = rain in the shop. JMO. YES - It happens in my shop. Table saw, Jointer and others must be covered with plastic when not in use. Even worse is when the frost that develops on the inside of the roof and then melts when it warms up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 In my dream shop[which I haven't built yet] I plan on using 1/2" plywood on the walls. You can hang just about anything, anywhere. With drywall you have to hit a stud. Plus I believe the R value of plywood is a little higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 So it sounds like a metal ceiling is a bad idea. Installed it would run me $1.25 sq/ft so I probably have a lot of wood options at $40/sheet! So is OSB a good option for the ceiling? If so 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4"? If I put a vapor barrier between it and the trusses I probably wouldn't have to worry about perfect seams. I will spray insulation in the ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Truss spacing? You clip 1/2" roof sheathing because it carries load. The ceiling might not carry load but your trusses could be on 24". I am not sure I would worry about a moisture sheet because you should plan for enough attic insulation to make this a bit redundant for air penetration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 I meet with the builder on Sunday but the truss spacing looks to be 10'. I'm basing this off a preliminary plan and the posts are 10' apart. I don't what will run perpendicular to the trusts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Definitely rent a drywall lift to hang any kind of sheets on ceilings! That is some backbreaking work without one. Depending on the height of your ceiling a section of roll around scaffolding to stand on while screwing is a good idea. If you use OSB think about pre-priming it or just rent a sprayer to do the whole ceiling. My shop used to be a photography studio and having all the walls and ceiling painted white helps a lot with lighting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie K. Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 I used an acoustic fiberglass panel, very light weight, sound absorption. (Found at surplus supplier $4 per sheet). attached it to furring strips 15 in center. sheets were 5 x 10 x 1/2" took the echo out of my empty shop. Don't know who supplies it in your area but worth looking into. Also like the size of your shop. Eddie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 I can't think of any good reason for not using drywall on the ceiling. It is inexpensive, easy to finish and readily available. It is also easy to cut and patch if you need to modify it. I would also recommend hiring a professional to hang it. I've done it myself in the past but I hired a crew to do my 2000 foot basement finishing job. Watching the guys bouncing around on their stilts was worth the price. Also, they finished hanging the drywall (ceiling and walls) in one day. That was over 50 - 4' x 16' sheets. Taping was another day, then a couple of hours a day to finish and sand. In one week the job was ready for paint. I would also recommend using a semi gloss paint. Flat wall paint looks better, but semi is more reflective of light and also releases dust better. You can also wipe it off with a wet cloth if there is any spatters (I turn wet wood on my lathe). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Mike M - what thickness drywall did you go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 1/2 is fine but, you may have a different fire code? Drywall is easy and you can install. Will take longer, it's more work, but it is a bunch cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT Proctor Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 We have the metal roof in our pole barn, never had ANY problems with condensation but the building is very well insulated. Noise level is not a problem either. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 CT - glad to hear the metal roof isn't a noise or moisture problem. My walls will be 2x6's with R-19 insulation and probably better insulated than my house. Do you have any more pics of that shop? What did you do for the walls and your floor? The builder stopped out yesterday and said with the ceiling insulated and vented roof there shouldn't be any moisture problems. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFatBaron Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 If you do decide to put up drywall yourself, be sure to rent a good drywall screw gun. It'll save you a ton of effort (and tendonitis, and stripped screws, and broken screws, and every other sort of horror imaginable). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT Proctor Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Start here Estes. I agree with your builder. We have gable end vents, soffit vents, and two functioning cupolas for ventilation and do not have any moisture problems. Walls are insulated and drywalled, flooring is a t&g wood floor. I also have several farmer friends who have metal ceilings in their farm shops and they don't have moisture problems either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 I used 1/2" drywall in my shop. There wasn't any code requirement for thicker or fireproof ratings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jg2259 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I used drywall on the walls of my 24' x 32' garage, which doubles as my shop. I put up all the drywall myself and also finished it myself. I was anal about sanding the joints and screw holes, but you cannot pick out one joint or screw hole even when looking closely. Now I'm laughing at myself for wasting all that time being a perfectionist just for a garage. For the ceiling I used a product called AgTuff. It is made of some type of PVC and I just love it. It comes in many sizes but I used 3' x 12' sheets. It was kind of a pain to install the 12' because they are flimsy when they get that long. But you have less joints with the longer pieces. I can't remember if they come in colors, but I got white and it really reflects the light in my shop, especially with the walls painted white. They are corrugated just like the metal sheets that you sometimes see. The corrugations are more squared rathar than rounded like you see on metal. Hope this helps. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I'm currently leaning towards OSB over drywall right now. I could probably do OSB myself and would hire out drywall because it would take me forever. I also think OSB would be better for hanging stuff over drywall. A friend used OSB for the ceiling and drywall for the walls in his car shop. He said if he had to do it all again he would do all OSB because it's easier and hides dings must better. So is 7/16" OSB think enough for walls and ceiling or should I go with 1/2"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I'm currently leaning towards OSB over drywall right now. I could probably do OSB myself and would hire out drywall because it would take me forever. I also think OSB would be better for hanging stuff over drywall. A friend used OSB for the ceiling and drywall for the walls in his car shop. He said if he had to do it all again he would do all OSB because it's easier and hides dings must better. So is 7/16" OSB think enough for walls and ceiling or should I go with 1/2"? Call your insurance company. Mine would not insure with osb or plywood walls. For the big shop the only requirement was that they were hung vertical or if horizontal the joints sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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