Stanley No 4 and 5 for $40 CAD


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So I've been playing with my #4 and I have to say I'm loving it. No more 80 grit sand paper for flat surfaces ever again - YAY! That's a definite win. Less sanding HAS to be good.

 

What I am finding is that my little finger on my right hand is getting pinched in the corner of the tote.Is that normal? I've ended up holding the tote with index and little fingers extended:

 

heavy-metal-devil-horns-hand-sign-150340

 

Is that normal? It's a uncomfortable to wrap my little finger inside to grip the tote, but feels weird to extend it. Almost like I have less control over it. I don't think I do have less control, because my results are fine and that's what I'm judging this whole experience on.

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Kidney bean is the shape of the slot on the lever cap.   Andrew, they will work just fine. It's just surprising how much abrasive is used, how much mess is made. If you can spare the time and you en

Paste wax would be my choice. The oil can cause trouble if any gets into a spot where you miss cleaning later.

Yay! I finally got my No 5 working. I just cut a 7.5 thou shaving off a bit of old 2x4 as a test cut. I managed to get a slight camber on the blade by applying pressure to the corners of the blade as

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If it feels weird, try extending the index and middle fingers instead. The ring and pinky fings actually provide more strength in a grip, while the index and middle are more useful for fine adjustment work. In the case of planing, having a more solid grip on the tote is probably the more critical force. Laying the other two fingers alongside the frog might help you fine-tune your stroke a bit.

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There should be enough room for a three finger grip on a #4, with the index pointing straight. I don't have a #3 because I couldn't get three fingers around the tote. You could always consider modifying the tote a little, otherwise, to be honest, if you're getting the results you want, and your hand is comfortable, it really doesn't matter. Just check that it's not because you're pressing down on the tote. Your right hand should only really be pushing forward - so it ought to be sliding up towards the top, with the web between thumb and index finger being stopped by the horn.

 

John

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Part of my problem right now is that the benches I have are too low by any standard. I've got a few projects I need to get out of the way, but once they are done I'm going to do a bench project. Not a behemoth, and it certainly won't be my last bench (I'm told you never do your last bench). But it'll be something I can work better with. This is one of the reasons why I need to get the No 5 up and running so I can flatten the new bench out.

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Yeah, lots of folks say you should put your bench top about where your knuckles fall with your arm hanging at you side, but that is uncomfortably low for me. I like mine about navel high. Tall enough that I don't have to bend over to plane, but still low enough that I can lean on it a bit. Being an even six feet tall, that conveniently makes 36" a good bench height. How fortunate that my table saw is exectly that high as well. Bench makes a good outfeed table.

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Bench height really depends a lot on what you are doing.   If you are just finish smoothing, the shavings should be so thin that not much more than the weight of the plane is needed, and a somewhat higher bench is useful.  If you are preparing stock by hand, the thicker cuts require more consistent force which can get tiring if you are just using your arms.   I think I am really headed toward having two benches.

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Yay! I finally got my No 5 working. I just cut a 7.5 thou shaving off a bit of old 2x4 as a test cut. I managed to get a slight camber on the blade by applying pressure to the corners of the blade as I sharpened. I didn't mark it out, so I don't know what radius. But it's rough cutting which is a good start. I can probably use this to flatten my work bench. When I finally get round to making it. Eventually. Some time.

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So I seem to be running into some troubles with No 4. After a month or so using it (and loving it! Not giving up the power tools just yet though), I seem to have developed a problem with it. I've had to sharpen it a couple of times, which I don't mind as it gives me a chance to practice sharpening. However I'm now getting shavings coming up under the chip breaker.

 

What am I doing wrong?

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Have you flattened the very edge of the chip breaker? It sounds as though it's not making good contact with the blade if shavings are getting stuck under it.

Just a few passes over your stones should be enough as it is soft steel.

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1) Good job! Unless you are dealing with a very large gap, then you are sharpening well enough to achieve a fine shaving.

2) Ensure you are not putting too much pressure on the cap. It is theoretically and practically possible to warp the iron or chip breaker during use if bound too tightly by the cap.

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