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My go to finish to build a sheen is a 4 step process. 1) 2-3 coats thin CA Glue 2) 1 coat EEE to smooth out the CA 3) 4-5 friction polish 4) 1 coat renaissance wax.

I love how this finish ends up but not every project needs it. I have some projects that just need a close to the wood feel and look. Nothing with a sheen. But I also don't want to use straight wax as I would have to apply it regularly to keep the look.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

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Krylon Matte Finish - spray a bunch of light coats.  It can be buffed up a bit.  Also one can use Renaissance wax over it and buff to the desired sheen.

 

Watco's Danish Oil is also a nice neutral finish that brings out the grain without being glossy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i use what MCQ uses just with about a half the amount of DNA depending on how smooth you get the wood and the number of layer you put on and how much you polish the wood you can have a mat finish or a gloss. 

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Depends on the project and wood.  I've even dipped the result into a can of Minwax.  (I also happened to need to finish off the can from a previous project.)

 

I've done CA, with a buffing, CA without, CA with a buffing followed by Renaissance Wax coating, CA followed by poly (don't recommend it), Watco, General Finishes, and "blue can" oils... last was purchased from a local hardware shop that recommended it and wasn't too thrilled by the results.  (Operator error, didn't follow the directions.)

 

my favorite has to be 3 coats of poly, because I've had less issues with it.  I've glued paper and fingers to things that should not be glued, I've stained walls and clothing, and I've flung flaming bits of stuff in odd directions with most other approaches.  I'm sure time and technique will correct a lot of these issues, though.

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I use 3N1 friction polish. Equal parts shellac, linseed oil, and DNA; although I'm questioning if that much DNA is necessary. Next time I'm going to cut back.

Isn't that the mixture that Capt Eddie Castelin calls "Shine Juice"?

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yep but i like it with little less DNA half a equal part because i usualy use it off the lathe as well and without the friction it just acts more like linseed oil without lots and lots of layers.

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I can't remember where I heard it called 3N1 but I like the name. I mix it in an empty contact lens solution bottle, allows me to dribble on a little at a time.

 

Same bottles are awesome for oils. I keep one with 10w30 motor oil to lubricate my Goodell Pratt lathe and whatnot. And another with mineral oil.

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