Beginner struggles - changing a table saw blade without the arbor wrench


pmc802

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Hey friends,

 

I purchased a table saw from craigslist that did not come with the arbor wrench (lesson learned the hard way).  Unfortunately, I have not been able to find any 1 1/4 inch arbor wrenches in any stores nearby.  I have tried taking the blade off using the wrenchless option with a piece of wood holding the blade in place - but the arbor is turning with the nut even when the blade is locked in place.  Am I missing something?  Are there wrenches out there I can buy that people are aware of?  Do I need to call Delta and get a specific arbor wrench?  Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Pete

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What are you using to turn the nut - just turning by hand? If so, I think you probably need a wrench of some sort to get more leverage. If you do have a wrench of some sort, consider tapping the wrench with a hammer (assuming your arbor nut is just stuck, and not rusty).

 

 

I've noticed that if you don't change the blade regularly on some saws, the arbor nut can get very tight, and your hand will generate enough torque to turn the arbor, but not enough to actually break the nut loose. The hammer-on-wrench impact is the same idea - the sharp sudden torque can help pop the nut loose.

 

What's the overall condition of the saw? If it's rusty, you may also want to get some penetrating lubricant, though I don't know what would be appropriate for this case.

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The Fat Baron - I do have an adjustable wrench on the nut and I'll see if taking the hammer to it might bring me a little luck.  She does have a little rust. I have watched a couple videos where you have the wrench on the nut and use a piece of wood to tap the blade forward and release the nut.  This approach is not working as the arbor and nut both do not turn when I push the blade forward with the piece of wood - the blade just spins itself.

 

C Shaffer - The tablesaw is a Delta Shopmaster.  The link below shows a picture of the model I purchased.  I was hoping the wrench for my router might work (1"), but the arbor on the table saw is a little larger.  Either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

 

http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/Delta-Shopmaster-10-inch-table-saw_21027540

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Pete

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If you are holding the nut, and the blade spins, Danger! Someone may have used the saw with the blade improperly secured and the wobbling blade may have damaged threading. I am really struggling to find spec info on exactly what the original equipment measured but have this to offer. Amazon is great about returns. I would try a wrench set from Rigid (about the only wrenches showing) and see if they fit or can be filed to fit. The other option is to file a standard wrench. The only wrench that needs to be slim is the wrench that grabs the shaft. You are still talking about holding the blade and this is not what is recommended here or demonstrated at the link above. Especially since your blade spins freely you have a couple of reasons to change your approach. You need to hold the shaft. The shaft will have flats machined on the backside of the blade mount for a spanner to grab. This may not be super clear at the link, maybe I can find better. Another thing though, if the nut is tight, and the blade loose, you are likely missing the clamping washer that is secured by the nut. Go to your local big box and have a sales associate show you what a complete assembly looks like. One last, pay attention to TIODs concern. As you stand at your saw switch, if the nut is to the left of the blade, it is left hand threaded.

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Just get a regular open end wrench the right size.  I have dedicated ones hanging on, or near, all the saws.  My Delta Unisaw uses a 7/8".  I don't like those stamped wrenches for anything. I have a whole stack of 1-1/8s that have never been used from new router purchases.   Lowes, Home Depot, or any hardware store should have them for 7 or 8 bucks or so.  Put a block of wood on the saw top where you need to slam the wrench down on, and one, not even so great, tap should loosen it right up. If it's too tight, it might take several taps.  The inertia of the blade keeps the arbor spinning when the wrench comes to an abrupt halt.

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I just put in an e-mail to a company that has the part specifically for my delta model.  Sounds like a special order kind of deal.  I may just amazon prime the ryobi two pack to see if I can move the process along faster. 

 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Delta-Parts/Saw-Parts/Model-TS220LS/1667/0744600/P0308156/00002?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=ts220ls

 

If you look at this diagram for parts 165, 166, and 167 -  I believe the clamping washer you are referring to is part 166.  If that is the case I do have one of these.

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pmc802,  go back and read my post a few posts back.  I do this for a living.  I didn't mean for that to sound short, but I've never seen anyone use one of those stamped wrenches on a saw. 

 

I wouldn't use pliers, or even an adjustable wrench, but only a proper fitting wrench.  That's kind of a carry over from my first job working at an airport, where the airplane mechanics weren't allowed to have adjustable wrenches, or spring loaded center punches in their toolboxes.  It has served me well over the years, with no buggered up nuts or bolts.

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Hey Tom,

 

I think this is the approach I was trying to use in the beginning (clearly my technique is off).  See the video below if we are thinking about the same thing.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxzgQOFIpKI

 

When I was doing this the blade would rotate forward but the nut and arbor would stay fixed with my wrench.

 

I am realizing as I watch this maybe my saw is threaded differently than his in the video because his nut is on the left mine on the right (his is reverse threaded and mine is normal threaded).  Are all table saws threaded normally if they have the nut on the right?  Maybe I just need to use the technique in the video from the other side of the tablesaw.

 

Let me know what your thoughts are,

 

Best,

 

Pete

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Wow, that is embarrassing.  The whole time I figured my saw was backwards threaded.  I gave a couple cranks the normal threaded way (to the left to loosen) and gave up thinking I was just tightening the blade on.  Turns out with a little more gusto she was in fact standard threaded.  

 

I appreciate all of you guys working with me on that wonderful lesson - not all table saws are backwards threaded - who knew.

 

On to a few new projects.

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I do use the stamped wrench that came with my saw but fully intend to replace it with a correctly sized open end wrench soon.  My saw has an arbor lock on it and I've worked hard to overcome my instinct to over-tighten nuts.  Because the design of the saw is to turn in the direction that causes the nut to tighten with use it isn't necessary to bear down on the wrench and nut when tightening.

 

On some cheaper saws I've had it's necessary to use the stamped wrench, or at least one of them, because two wrenches were necessary, one on either side of the blade, and the backside was too narrow to get a full size wrench into the slot.

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I've had some recent runs of bad luck with adjustable wrenches.  I haven't spent the money on "high quality, name brand" wrenches, but I haven't always purchased cheap stuff either.

 

The last two crescent wrenches won't hold a size.  I need to use it with my thumb on the spiral, which doesn't always (ever) work.  The adjustable (Channel Lock) ones all suffer from the loose screw syndrome, where they won't stay in the size you choose.  

 

summary: the tools you use can also determine the success of the repair.  (And you get what you pay for.)  a dedicated open-end wrench or box wrench is not a bad idea... keep it on a short leash for the tool, one per.  Or, get one good set and mark down somewhere (on the tool, or the tool box lid inside) which tool uses which wrenches.

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I've used a large crescent wrench in a pinch.  Regardless of the tilt direction of the saw, the wrench should always be pulled toward the front of the saw to loosen the nut, and away from the saw to tighten.  Makes it easy to remember....

 

Don't over tighten when you put the nut back on.

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  • 5 years later...

Changed my table saw blade, plugged it in, and it was on already. Went to turn it off and it was off. Now I have to unplug the cord to turn it off. Why? 

Dont understand how changing the saw blade caused this to happen and also have no clue how to fix it. 

Any ideas??

black n Decker firestorm table saw

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