..Kev Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 You actually don't need the template on the other side as you have already routed one side. So, that becomes the template for the other side and you only need a top bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 I know what you're talking about, Kev, but he's trying to avoid going against the grain, which means he wouldn't route that trouble area at all, which means he would need to re-stick the template on the other side. What you're saying is a good way to route tall pieces where you can do one half with a bottom bearing bit and the template on the bottom, then take the template off, flip the workpiece over and do the other half with a top bearing bit...but that doesn't really apply here. Ya dig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Yea, I'm picking up what you're putting down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 If William Ng made a Big Daddy bit with a bearing on the top and bottom, I'd never use another pattern bit for the rest of my life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Whiteside does ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/whiteside-ultimate-trim-bit.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 That's a nice bit, but it's not a Big Daddy. THIS is a Big Daddy...2" cutting length and 1-1/8" diameter. It's actually cheaper than the Whitesides, too (which is weird because I thought Whiteside made his bits...could be wrong). I wish he made this one with a top and bottom bearing...I'd pay 200 beans for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-astragal Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 You guys need to get a shaper! Reversible and stronger and if you are ok with $200 router bits then tooling won't kill you either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Ah yes, the Digit Remover 2.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 I'd love to have a shaper but I'm completely out of shop space. Completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Uh, ok. You must have moved all your tools out into the driveway to photograph the sharpening station?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 I'm pretty sure it was the sharpening station or the shaper and it's obvious which one won 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 I have a router table so that makes a shaper a bit redundant, and I really don't need a shaper. I did, however, need a sharpening station. There's one area left open and dedicated to the lathe I'll eventually get, and that is it. No mo space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted September 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Always more space. Go vertical. Levels Jerry, levels! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 I refuse to go upstairs to use a shaper when I have a killer router table on the first floor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 My walls are pretty well covered, too. I'm planning to put my compressor up in my "attic," but other than that, I'm used up vertically as well. AND, you remember how well the levels worked out for Kramer, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 If it were me and I wasn't doing too many I think I'd use a spokeshave and keep my fingers safe. Or make do with the OSS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted September 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Yeah, my router has not been my friend lately. I find myself using it less and less unless I need a very specific profile on a large, safe, board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 I bought the Big Daddy bit a few months ago because I was making three of the tilt top tables (guild build). I had three oval table tops that I was making out of special stock (two of them figured walnut and one of them genuine mahogany where I had no spare stock for screw ups). I couldn't bear the thought of ruining one of the tops with end grain tearout on the pattern routing, so I ponied up for the Big Daddy. Some of the best money I've ever spent. Such a clean cut no matter uphill, downhill, end grain, long grain (though I still pay attention to grain direction). I highly recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Here's a thought: Use a flush-trim bit in the router table. Cut the template from stock thick enough to clear the bearing and cap screw. Attach the template to the workpiece. On top of the template, attach a nice, big safe board, with knobs or handles, even. Your fingers never have to get close to the bit at all. This won't reduce tearout, unless you can find a spiral-cut flush trim bit, but it is certainly safer! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Qualley Posted August 2, 2019 Report Share Posted August 2, 2019 With a handheld router the direction is left to right and I always follow this. I tried to route a piece of 2" walnut and it kicked several times. The 2" bit could be dull but would the hardness of the wood be the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 2, 2019 Report Share Posted August 2, 2019 Direction is left to right if the stock is on the side of the bit away from you. If you reach across the work so that the bit cuts on the side closer to you it is 'climbing" the cut, and will try to jump away. The other issue to consider is grain direction. If you route a curve, the different grain angle can catch the bit as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 Usually grain isn't too much of a problem. Its usually how dull and how much you are taking off. Less is better..use to do a lot of 60" round 8/4 ash tables and a lot of 30x144 tables I use to straight edge with a pattern bit. Top bearing 2" from AMANA.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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