bfiedler Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 For the majority of the projects I have built I have used either cedar, or exclusively birch plywood. I am looking at trying to use something more "exotic" for the toy chest. My local Menards stocks the following lumber in the appropriate sizes: Mahogany $15 for 1x4x8 Hickory $16 for 1x4x8 Maple for $17 for 1x4x8 Poplar for $12 for 1x4x8 As you can see the price jump to mahogany or hickory isn't that steep, so I was thinking about using on of those two. Here are my questions: Which would be the easiest for somebody that hasn't used "exotics" before? I am not going to paint this, so which would look best with the plywood sides? (I can get oak, or birch plywood). Obviously the second question is a very big personal choice. I haven't used good wood before, so I would like suggestions as far as "leave the solid wood natural, but stain the plywood light" or something like that. Let me know what you think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 I sure like working w/ Hickory (or pecan down here). Beautiful grain and fun to work with. I've seen Poplar from other parts of the country that wasn't green in color and was neat looking. And Maple is fine looking as well if you want a light color. Oh, you wanted "a" choice of the "exotics" (non pine). I'd go with birch ply with a Hickory frame with several coats of Arm-R-Seal. This is the first day of early voting so let us know who wins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfiedler Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 I sure like working w/ Hickory (or pecan down here). Beautiful grain and fun to work with. I've seen Poplar from other parts of the country that wasn't green in color and was neat looking. And Maple is fine looking as well if you want a light color. Oh, you wanted "a" choice of the "exotics" (non pine). I'd go with birch ply with a Hickory frame with several coats of Arm-R-Seal. This is the first day of early voting so let us know who wins. What do you suggest as far as staining? I like the look of hickory too, so I would be hesitant to stain it, but I think birch is pretty boring unstained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 The price for the mahagony is decent, though I am not certain what the quality of it is. Do yourself a favor, find a local hardwood dealer. The prices you are looking at for the shrink wrapped wood that Menards sells is extremely expensive. Even if you have to pay extra for them to mill it for you, you will still be spending a LOT less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 If the toy chest is going to be used as it's name suggests, then get yourself the toughest stuff available -- Bell Forrest'll probably ship you Ironwood for $15/bf And because friends will be involved, don't use exotics -- some folks are alergic... Good old Hard Maple get's my vote... Based on your question, sounds like you may need a little help... Chris Schwarz has a 6-board chest video that's good. Marc has a guild build for a blanket chest, but it's got more than you might wnat/need... I'd get some straight grain sticks and wrap the grain around the box... Get a stick of Tiger for the lid... You should be able to do this for an average of $8bf. I'd spring for hand-forged hardware -- the black hammered-iron hardware on Maple looks great... I forget who (maybe Horton?) sells a hinge set specifically for toy boxes so the lid can't slam down... Since kids are involved, I'd also avoid film finishes -- some sort of drying oil. Unless you happen to have access to spray gear, then cat conv varnish would be the way to go... Or maybe two-part marine poly -- yea, expensive, but then the chest would probably repel cannonballs... Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfiedler Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 If the toy chest is going to be used as it's name suggests, then get yourself the toughest stuff available -- Bell Forrest'll probably ship you Ironwood for $15/bf And because friends will be involved, don't use exotics -- some folks are alergic... Good old Hard Maple get's my vote... Based on your question, sounds like you may need a little help... Chris Schwarz has a 6-board chest video that's good. Marc has a guild build for a blanket chest, but it's got more than you might wnat/need... I'd get some straight grain sticks and wrap the grain around the box... Get a stick of Tiger for the lid... You should be able to do this for an average of $8bf. I'd spring for hand-forged hardware -- the black hammered-iron hardware on Maple looks great... I forget who (maybe Horton?) sells a hinge set specifically for toy boxes so the lid can't slam down... Since kids are involved, I'd also avoid film finishes -- some sort of drying oil. Unless you happen to have access to spray gear, then cat conv varnish would be the way to go... Or maybe two-part marine poly -- yea, expensive, but then the chest would probably repel cannonballs... Good luck. I am following Marc's plan for the WFC toy chest build. I ended up buying the mahogany. It was actually quite nice, straight, no cupping. It ended up costing me about $8 bd/ft for mahogany, pre milled. Seemed like a good deal for me. Double check my math 1x4x8 (3/4 in x 3.5 in x 96in)= 1.75 bd feet. $15 a stick. $15/1.75= $8.57bd/ft. Plus it comes in the exact dimensions Marc provided. (His plan is using off the shelf lumber) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefmagnus@grics.net Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Ask a local cabinet shop where they get their wood from... Chef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Woodfinder.com is a nifty website for finding hardwood sellers. A bit late for this build but you might be surprised how much you can save for your next build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfiedler Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Thanks for the input on WHERE to buy the wood.... I was looking for info on which of the listed to buy though........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefmagnus@grics.net Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Of the ones listed I would go with the mahogany or the maple based on their hardness. The toughness of the wood will translate into durability. Chef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcarswell Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Thanks for the input on WHERE to buy the wood.... I was looking for info on which of the listed to buy though........My son's toy chest is made out of genuine mahogany it's a wonderful material for that purpose armor seal is your best friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisb Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 I am following Marc's plan for the WFC toy chest build. I ended up buying the mahogany. It was actually quite nice, straight, no cupping. It ended up costing me about $8 bd/ft for mahogany, pre milled. Seemed like a good deal for me. Double check my math 1x4x8 (3/4 in x 3.5 in x 96in)= 1.75 bd feet. $15 a stick. $15/1.75= $8.57bd/ft. Plus it comes in the exact dimensions Marc provided. (His plan is using off the shelf lumber) How did you decide you were going to finish it? I am thinking about a similar build (hardwood + baltic birch), but I haven't decided on a hardwood yet. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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