Shop cabinet build


Tom Cancelleri

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I'm not working from a set of plans. I'm winging it as I go. I had my set design that I wanted it to look like. I sketched my face frame then figured out the rest of my dimensions as I worked. Standard cabinets are 24" deep, 34 1/2" high (1 1/2" thick countertop). Standard toe kick is 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"

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I've made cabinet doors before. These doors I just messed around with and found what I liked and thought looked good. I've read enough cabinet books and things as well as watched enough videos, seen demos, etc. Steve gave me a few tips to make things a bit easier. 

 

I made 2 mistakes. I cut the floor 3/16" too narrow so there are tiny little gaps where the sides meet. It's a shop cabinet, no big deal. I also put the tongue on the wrong side of the edge of the left side panel had the wrong face down and it created a 3/8" gap between the faceframe and where the opening of drawers in the face frame. That's a simple fix. Put a strip of 3/8" wood under where the drawer slides will be mounted. 2 lessons that I will remember when it comes time to make more cabinets.

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Finally took the Mini Mite4 out for a test drive. It's a bit on the louder side, but it's less than a shopvac, more than a Festool CleanTex.

 

I sprayed both of the doors. Results you ask?

 

Door 1 I sprayed way too much finish on it. I needed to turn down the fluid nozzle. The front side came out ok, the back side had a lot of runs (who cares it's the back and it's a shop cabinet)

 

Door 2, I lowered the fluid amount via the fluid control knob by a fair amount, It sprayed much nicer and I didn't get any runs. 

 

I need a finishing booth with proper ventilation. I used my roughed out bathroom in my basement as my spray area since I didn't have to worry about it spraying all over stuff. There is however some offgassing from the waterborne poly drying. (I wore a mask with proper filters for painting) I might need to open a window though, the exhaust fan in the bathroom that's venting outside isn't sufficient.

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Throwing out a question, since you and I seem to be on the exact same cabinet build arc...

Does the piece have to be scuffed and de-dusted between every coat? Seems I spend more time doing that than actually spraying, especially when I'm trying to knock out 4-5 coats in a day, especially when its a piece with lots of detail

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[quote name="T Cancelleri" post="180075" timestamp="142462469

Door 1 I sprayed way too much finish on it. I needed to turn down the fluid nozzle. The front side came out ok, the back side had a lot of runs (who cares it's the back and it's a shop cabinet)

Door 2, I lowered the fluid amount via the fluid control knob by a fair amount, It sprayed much nicer and I didn't get any runs.

Tom, Every time you open that door it will be a palm on the forehead moment! I think you should sand, sand, sand and re-spray

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I just checked the doors. The back has some drip lines, but a lot of it leveled out as it dried. The other door is perfect. There is a slight texture (high spots) that actually feels quite nice. The finish is flat, I mainly want a bit of protection on these doors. I'm gonna sand and do a second coat. The maple looks nice and coat 1 brought out a little life in the maple.

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Get yourself a wet mil gauge and spend some time learning how to use it and your calculator. 

 

If you really want to know if your getting it done right. Practice with your wet mil gauge they are cheap and most companies give them away for free. If you have the desire swing into a big cabinet shop and have them hit the panel with their positector.

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Are you new to spraying or new to a turbine? If your new to spraying, try shooting the doors using a nail board and on a flat surface. Shooting hanging doors can be challenging if your new to spraying.

 

Now don't take no for an answer, fix the runs on the back of those "SHOP" doors and get them nice. You have a great learning opportunity in front of you. :)

 

If your not new to spraying, I will shut up now!  :)

 

-Ace-  

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Are you new to spraying or new to a turbine? If your new to spraying, try shooting the doors using a nail board and on a flat surface. Shooting hanging doors can be challenging if your new to spraying.

 

Now don't take no for an answer, fix the runs on the back of those "SHOP" doors and get them nice. You have a great learning opportunity in front of you. :)

 

If your not new to spraying, I will shut up now!  :)

 

-Ace-  

 

 

I'm new to spraying with any sort of quality machine. I've done small airbrushing in the past on RC cars and such. Good point about fixing the drips and respraying. I didn't seem to have any problems spraying the hanging door. I had 1 hand holding the hanger to keep it from rotating. My gun has a rotating gravity feed on the top so I can shoot up or down without worrying about material delivery. 

 

I learned that if you start doing things at the hardest level, you are really really good at the easier things.

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I'm new to spraying with any sort of quality machine. I've done small airbrushing in the past on RC cars and such. Good point about fixing the drips and respraying. I didn't seem to have any problems spraying the hanging door. I had 1 hand holding the hanger to keep it from rotating. My gun has a rotating gravity feed on the top so I can shoot up or down without worrying about material delivery. 

 

I learned that if you start doing things at the hardest level, you are really really good at the easier things.

 

With WB and HVLP turbine you should flat line your doors and let gravity help out.

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