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No Vinny they stayed open throughout the entire movement. Only when getting close to being closed (about 1" away) would they very slowly creep closed. I did have to make some shims as I'd gone a little shy of 3/4" on the rear hinge stretcher thickness. I put cork to act as buffers at the two front corners again to minimise any finger traps.

I have the Veritas plug cutters and used them to make the plugs.

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Looks awesome - that European oak is beautiful!  Is that the same stuff you used on the garden gate?

No I used American white oak on the gate. It was actually cheaper than European despite coming thousands of miles further.
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No I used American white oak on the gate. It was actually cheaper than European despite coming thousands of miles further.

 

Yeah it's definitely counter-intuitive...walnut grows profusely all over the midwestern US...and I can get Honduran mahogany cheaper than walnut. :blink:

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looks great terry, nice job. I've got a toy box project coming up so it's nice to hear a good report on those hinges, been looking at them and wondering if they worked as advertised

They work great Dave. One thing this isn't mentioned in the instructions is you have to locally remove some wood under the hinge pin side of the hinge. Essentially you are applying a radius to the top outside corner of the hinge rail to allow the hinge to sit snug against the wood. When you buy them you will see what I mean as the metal has an inside radius at that point. The rest of that top rail can be chamfered or the edge broken with sand paper.
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