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Blum blumotion slide install

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I'm retrofitting some drawer slides into my existing kitchen to replace the crappy nylon roller variety. I went with Blum blumotion glides, so I need to build all new drawer boxes. I have built a test drawer to ensure I have all the drawer measurements correct.

My test drawer build had some hiccups, but I now have a solid grasp on the dimensions and adjustments I need to make to get a good fit. My drawers will be made from 5/8" maple, and have a false front from the existing kitchen.

My problem is installing the runners on the cabinet sides. The instructions indicate a 4mm setback (for the runner) from the cabinet front (euro style). If I go with a 4 mm setback, the false front drawer sticks way out in front of the cabinet sides.

My drawer is 5/8" thick material, so if the 4 mm setback is for 1/2" drawer stock (and I double it to 8 mm), I am still nowhere near a flush fit. I need almost 5/8" setback to achieve a flush false front to cabinet side arrangement. I assume this is what I want, a flush fit - am I incorrect here? If the false front is not flush to the cabinet sides, then my false front will sit proud.

Can anyone help? Do I just go with 5/8 setback (5 times the indicated amount), or am I missing something obvious here?

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I'm surprised you couldn't retrofit your drawers for the new slides.

 

As far as the set back, if it's sticking out, move the slides back that amount. Make a little story stick, and go for it.

 

I may be missing something, but seems fairly straightforward.

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I'm surprised you couldn't retrofit your drawers for the new slides.

As far as the set back, if it's sticking out, move the slides back that amount. Make a little story stick, and go for it.

I may be missing something, but seems fairly straightforward.

Current drawer boxes are nailed melamine - not very good quality and are sized for the nylon rollers. Best to replace the whole kit and caboodle.

I'm kinda hung up on the spec sheet - I do that sometimes. Just wonder how I could be so far off of the stated 4mm.

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You have some adjustment if you use the slotted holes.

 

I just installed 8 inset drawers, and they came in very handy!

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Do you have something like this? It definitely helps with the slide installs. That and the drawer supports for the installing the drawer on the slides is around 35 bucks. If you're doing a lot of drawers, it'd be worth the small investment. 

 

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-NZ03-Magnetic-Drawer-Mounting/dp/B0002QZ4Q2

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I don't seem to have the elongated hole for mounting, must be on a different model. These glides I bought at lee valley, and they are 550 mm (model 560H550).

For the big price tag, these things should install themselves! 7 sets ran me almost 400 bucks.

I guess I don't have much choice but to just go for it.

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Having never installed Blum, I went digging. I found this and wonder if this is the same setup?

http://youtu.be/wwqKU16hNsA

I've watched that a few times, and he sets them back 1/8", as the instructions depict. When I do so, the drawer box sits proud of the cabinet face, where his drawer box does not.

He is using face frames as well, and I am using euro style frameless. Really though, it shouldn't make a difference. I must be overlooking something. I though originally maybe my drawer box was not right, but it fits the slides perfectly, so if I changed it the fit would be off.

Thanks for the post.

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I've watched that a few times, and he sets them back 1/8", as the instructions depict. When I do so, the drawer box sits proud of the cabinet face, where his drawer box does not.

He is using face frames as well, and I am using euro style frameless. Really though, it shouldn't make a difference. I must be overlooking something. I though originally maybe my drawer box was not right, but it fits the slides perfectly, so if I changed it the fit would be off.

Thanks for the post.

Good starting point for frame of reference. Are you getting the distinct click of the flippers engaging that seems evident from this demo? Is there any burr or screw at the back of the track that got installed from the wrong direction or missed a countersink? An extra 5/8" seems to call for an answer along these or ^^ his line of thought.

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Well, this kind of worked itself out. I decided that I would just install the runners wherever they needed to go. I grabbed my vix bit, and headed for the cabinets.

I took out the existing runners, the cheap nylon roller variety. As I did this, I noticed that they were installed with system screws, and the spacing looked about 36 mm.

I mounted they Blum slides in the 36 mm holes, and voila! Perfect fit! The runner is over 3/4" back from the front of the cabinet, so I guess these glides must have been specifically designed for the 36mm system.

The test drawer works great, so off to build 7 more.

Thanks for the help guys.

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I don't understand why the company made it so complicated.  Are they all like that?  

Ridiculous, and I say that knowing I'm going to have to install a similar system one day.   

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Hey everyone....this process if being way over complicated.  The drawer box should be the same length as the slide ( 21" slide 21" drawer box depth).  The width should be the width of the opening minus 3/8" for 5/8" side thickness and minus 5/8" for 1/2" side thickness.  You only need to notch the back and drill a hole or slot the back for the prong.  The slide should be appox 3/16th's back from the front.  For full inset you need to set back even with the inside of the face frame.  

If you follow those specs the drawers will fit every time....

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Just another follow up for future drawer builders:

 

Apparantly, you need to notch BOTH the front and back for some slides.  Check out this thread:

 

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Tandem_Slides_and_Drawer_Dimensions.html

 

 

I read through this really quickly....no one on there has a clue what they are talking about....

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Hey everyone....this process if being way over complicated. The drawer box should be the same length as the slide ( 21" slide 21" drawer box depth). The width should be the width of the opening minus 3/8" for 5/8" side thickness and minus 5/8" for 1/2" side thickness. You only need to notch the back and drill a hole or slot the back for the prong. The slide should be appox 3/16th's back from the front. For full inset you need to set back even with the inside of the face frame.

If you follow those specs the drawers will fit every time....

Thanks for the info. In my reading I also found that Blum makes two versions of the slides - one for face frame and one for euro style - this is why some slides are designated with an "H", and others are not.

Has this been your experience?

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Thanks for the info. In my reading I also found that Blum makes two versions of the slides - one for face frame and one for euro style - this is why some slides are designated with an "H", and others are not.

Has this been your experience?

They should all work the same....I don't recall a difference...however i haven't used blum slides in a couple years....I use a generic version from my supply house...the only real difference is the installation method between frameless and faceframe....

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Also the height of the drawer box should be 13/16 less than the opening....3/4 will work....i, as a result of the dovetails make the drawers to whole number sizes only...(5in opening height 4 inch drawer height)  hopefully this all helps if you have any sizing questions PM me the dimensions and i can size them for you

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Well, I figured with all the time I spent looking online, I should just get out in the shop and make a few more sample drawers to test this all out.

The top drawer is built with an "unnotched" 5/8" drawer box. Take a look at how far I had to set the runner back. Also, the drawer is not a true full extension, as the drawer box front forced it to be push back 5/8".

The second drawer has a notch in the front and back of the drawer box (still 5/8"). It sits slightly proud of the frame, allowing some stoppers to be utilized. This box is a true full extension - the back of the drawer is outside of the cabinet when the drawer is fully extended.

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They should all work the same....I don't recall a difference...however i haven't used blum slides in a couple years....I use a generic version from my supply house...the only real difference is the installation method between frameless and faceframe....

I agree. Just looked again at my BLUM documentation on H vs non H series. Nothing to do with face frame or frameless. H series seems to be made a little heavier duty and can be used with 3/4" thick drawers.

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