Copper sheet to wood


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Does anyone here know the best way to adhere a copper sheet of about 5 1/2" wide by 29" long to the same wood size. The copper I have on hand is copper flashing. However, I haven't a clue what I should use to marry these two together without nails, tacks or screws. Any suggestions on a brand name of an adhesive. Please reply only if you have done this before and with success. Thank you. Kris

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Good for Wood and Metal=> PL-3. It's near the paint and glues section in Home Depot.

 

 

LOCTITE® PL PREMIUM® POLYURETHANE CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE  
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Loctite® PL® Premium® Polyurethane Construction Adhesive is a one component, polyurethane based, moisture-curing adhesive. It is VOC compliant and contains no chlorinated solvents or water. Loctite® PL® Premium® provides superior adhesion to most common construction materials. It can be used for interior or exterior projects and is 3X as strong as ordinary construction adhesives. It is also waterproof, paintable and cures even in cold temperatures. Ideal for sub floor installations.

 

 
Recommended For
  • Bonding most common construction materials such as wood, treated wood, hardwood flooring, concrete, stone, marble, slate, masonry, brick, foam insulation of all sorts, carpets, metal, lead, cement-based products, ceramic, fiberglass, drywall and mirrors
Not Recommended For
  • Polystyrene, polyethylene or polypropylene
  • Plastic Tub Surrounds
  • Certain materials such as rubbers and plastics may have bonding difficulties; test before use
  • Water submersion applications
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I've used contact cement, the same kind used to apply laminate to a substrate. In fact, the procedure was almost identical. Cover both pieces and wait until tacky. Put the copper over the wood with dowels in between. Start removing dowels on one end and roll flat with a J roller, slowly moving down the board until the whole thing is on. I don't recall the exact brand of adhesive I used but it was from the home center and came in a red can.

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+1 for contact cement, solvent based . You want the slight rubbery give to absorb the difference in expansion rates. Luke is right use dowels to space the pieces and get them aligned then slide a few dowels out and press the copper down, keep pulling dowels and rub firmly to make the bond.

Read the label on the glue and follow the instructions .

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Not to answer the question, but just to add some personal experience with copper:   Copper flashing, as comes in 50 foot rolls is "dead soft" copper.  It is easily formed into different shapes, which means it's also easy to deform by about anything that presses hard against it, even glued to a hard substrate.   I use "quarter hard" copper for copper roofing, and any copper flashing.  It's still soft enough to bend or form in straight lines easily, but nothing like as soft as regular "copper flashing".  I have little use for the rolled copper flashing.  Quarter hard can be bought in all sorts of sheet sizes.  For roofing, I have bought it in multiple 1,000 pound rolls.

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Not to answer the question, but just to add some personal experience with copper:   Copper flashing, as comes in 50 foot rolls is "dead soft" copper.  It is easily formed into different shapes, which means it's also easy to deform by about anything that presses hard against it, even glued to a hard substrate.   I use "quarter hard" copper for copper roofing, and any copper flashing.  It's still soft enough to bend or form in straight lines easily, but nothing like as soft as regular "copper flashing".  I have little use for the rolled copper flashing.  Quarter hard can be bought in all sorts of sheet sizes.  For roofing, I have bought it in multiple 1,000 pound rolls.

 

This is why I didn't recommend contact cement. Contact cement is just that---both sides must contact for it to work. If your copper is super flat and your wood is too, contact cement will work. If you want the stuff to never come off and don't care about a few minor high/low lumps you'll need a sledge hammer and pick axe to get it separated with PL-3.

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Tom, I love copper work. It is one of my favorite finish jobs. J, sandpaper fixes the "too smooth." Kris, J's point is well taken. Is this a light duty or heavy duty bond that you are seeking. PST like carpet or turners tape is an easy light, contact an easy medium, and the epoxy/PL-3 are good heavies.

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I'm using the copper to cover the base of a bbq tote I plan to make. Mainly for cosmetics. It will get wet a time or two just during cleaning of the tote. But, nothing as extreme as a roof would get in all types of weather. I also plan to use copper rod as a cosmetic look in my joinery. Should come out pretty cool. Thanks for all replies, they are muchly appreciated. :)

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