chrisphr Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Decided to tackle the G&G blanket chest as my first guild build. As I was hammering away making plug mortises didn't notice that the board was a little warped lifting it off the bench so it wasn't fully supported, resulting in a hairline crack. Since the crack is real fine, not sure how to get glue in there. Any thoughts on what I should do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Thin CA and a lot of clamping pressure, maybe? If it was through and through, you could pull glue into the crack with a vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 I would add a bow tie / butterfly to the side not exposed. Which part of the chest will this board be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 I would add a bow tie / butterfly to the side not exposed. Which part of the chest will this board be?This is the front panel, top right corner. Bad place for it :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Tip it on end. Tape dam the faces. Pool thin long set epoxy on the end grain. Vibrate the epoxy into the board. Wrap in Saranwrap, (wrap the clamps too), then clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Nah, add the bow tie, and even put it on the outside and let this be the back right corner and it will look fine. Make it from the same wood and no one will notice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 ==>Tip it on end. Tape dam the faces. Pool thin long set epoxy on the end grain. Vibrate the epoxy into the board. Wrap in Saranwrap, (wrap the clamps too), then clamp. Spot-on... Let's expand a bit. Heat gun on low to reduce viscosity and increase penetration. I'd use 105/207 for slot set and clarity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Bow tie would be something new for me, which actually makes it sound like a fun thing to try! Although the speed of Carus and Highlanders idea is attractive. I think the crack might be to tight for the vac trick. C, is this what you were thinking for taping up the end? ==>Tip it on end. Tape dam the faces. Pool thin long set epoxy on the end grain. Vibrate the epoxy into the board. Wrap in Saranwrap, (wrap the clamps too), then clamp. Spot-on... Let's expand a bit. Heat gun on low to reduce viscosity and increase penetration. I'd use 105/207 for slot set and clarity.Thanks for the additional tip, 105/207 ideal, would 105/206 work (what I have on hand)? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 (edited) Yes. You can even tape the "floor" close to the crack to limit cleanup later. I am not sure you want those other voids full of epoxy. There are some Silly Putty type fillers that are sometimes used to block out areas of resin castings which is similar to this idea. You just want it to be a something easy to clean out of those voids once the epoxy excess is removed. Edited August 14, 2015 by C Shaffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Awesome, thanks for the great advice all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Feel stupid looking back. My advice was out of order. It is much easier to address the "floor" before damming the sides. Just an FYI to be thorough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 ==>would 105/206 work206 will work, but it's a bit thick for narrow crack repair --- you'll need to warm it a bit more than 207 to get it to flow. Also, the pot life and clarity of 207 is a lot better for repairs of this type -- 206 is a bit yellow... 209 gives you over an hour working time, but it's also a bit yellow and a little think for this sort of thing... 207 is ideal, 206 will work in a pinch -- 205 and 209 are not really recommended for thin crack repair...If you are patient and monitor/refill the voids as they develop, you'll end-up with a near invisible structural repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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