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Jerry_in_SD

When to bevel stile on lockset side of door slab

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I'm building a new entry door for the house.  Using construction method used by Norm in a NYW episode.  I'm building a new slab versus pre- hung.  Figure since I have the existing door as a template it would be easiest. Anyway, Norm does not bevel the edge of the lockset (or latch) stile but my existing door has about a 2 degree bevel.  Most entry door builds I've seen include the bevel since the door is 1 3/4 thick.  I was wondering if anyone had door building experience and could comment on the best time to add the bevel.  Seems like it would be easiest to run the stile through the table saw prior to glue up.  I would create shims to aid in clamping to offset the bevel at glue up. I'm wondering how much grief I would give myself when trying to mortise the lockset whenever it's  time.  Instructions for installing slabs on line say to use a portable planer or handplane to trim bevel on finished door.  I would use a handplane in this case.

Anyone with door building experience I would appreciate your advice.  

Final milling, mortising, and glue up next weekend.  

Thanks.

PS. Would kill for a Domino XL for this project.  

Edited by Jerry_in_SD

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I would make the door slightly oversized with square edges. Trimming the width and height while you hang the door. Bevel doesn't need to be very big . 

Draw a 1/4 circle the radius of the door swing. You can set a bevel off the edge.

if you rip 2 strips to the angle and clamp them to both sides of the door it helps guide the hand plane.  I use a power planer and set the angle on the fence.

Drill or mortice for the lock after hanging & beveling the door. The latch plate has to be slightly deeper on the high side of the bevel, flush on the low side.

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I don't know how much humidity differences San Diego has in different times of the year.  Here, an entry door will move too much to gain any advantage by beveling the lock style for fitting it tight.  Years ago, I used to scribe the door to fit the jamb, but for the majority of the time since then, I cut the door 5/16"s narrower than the well set jamb, finish it, and hang it.  I leave 1/8 on the hinge side, and 3/16 on the lock side, and 1/8" clearance at the top.  This is for interior doors. For exterior 1-3/4" doors, I do put a little bevel on it, and measure the 3/16" clearance to the middle of the thickness of the door. 

Sorry, I don't remember the angle.  I've done it for so long the same way when I make the door.  The indentation stop (for squaring up the fence) on the old Delta 8" that I use for this, gets perched halfway out of the slot it engages for square.  I do the same for jamb edges so the casing fits tightly leaving 1/8" reveal.  I've never used a prehung door, although I built new spec houses for 33 years.  The way my doors closed was always a selling point.  I have door hanging from scratch down to a science, and dedicated jigs and routers for the different operations required-but not for mortised entry locksets.  I always did the mortise locks by hand.

I've bought weatherstripping from Resource Conservation Technology for decades, and they still have the same lineup after all that time. For exterior doors I typically use the silicone flapper that engages a slot, or rabbet, in the stop.   They have a bunch of different sizes. 

For the bottom edge, I do usually taper it on an exterior door so it compresses the seal on the threshold as the door closes, but not all the way.  I just measure down from the bottom hinge, and cut accordingly. 

A mortise lock is not bad at all.  Just take your time.  Bore out most of it, and a sharp chisel finishes.  I wedge the door open after hanging it, and sit in a chair to cut the mortise.

Edited by Tom King
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Jerry, the door I finished in January was build a bit thick to the hinge side and trimmed just slightly when it was ready to hang, i hand beveled just a bit on the swing side and the locket was done prior to that. With Los Angeles humidity,  I don't think I've had any movement in the wood since it was hung. 

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Thanks all. I'm going to use a circular saw with edge guide it cut the bevel after glue up. The inexpensive Lockart drilling guides align to the door face not edge so bevel is no factor. I'll make a mortising guide that is aligned to the face as well for the latch and deadbolt trim plates Thanks for the suggestions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Jerry,  just remember that if the hole saw for the lock set doesn't have a starter hole,  it may be jumpy and hard to get it started on a beveled face.

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Jerry, I do 3 degrees on strike and hinge sides. Usually give myself an 1/8" reveal.

good idea with saw and guide. I use the Festool Ts75.

been doing this for a long time and knock on...well, wood... No call backs.

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