WindKnot Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Out of the ordinary job for me, I am building a pergola out of some massive 6 x 8 timbers and I am having a hard time figuring out a way of cutting some decorative end cuts for the rafters. I have been told that if I mount my bandsaw on wheels and roll my saw through it, I should have no problem. Has anyone done this before? What size casters did you use? Thanks, Cole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Nothing of that sort, but I did use my circular saw to cut decorative coves once. Just like a table saw: Set a fence, start with a bare 1/16" and push the saw sideways across the timber. What sort of decorative profile are you looking to do? Is there any way other than a band saw? How many of these are there? Would the time needed to set up a power tool to be safe and accurate equal or surpass the time needed to do it by hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Maybe rough it out with a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) and then clean it up with a rasp? A reciprocating saw will do 6", but I don't know about 8" If you are gluing up beams to make the 6x8, can you cut the profiles with a jig-saw before the glue up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Good idea, Beech. You can get some fairly long blades for a reciprocating saw. Failing that, people do all sorts of excellent sculptures using a chain saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgfore Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 I was thinking the same thing that Rob was................Chain Saw. I have used a chain saw to cut a lot of railroad ties, and it worked great. The one think to remember is that you have to cut the main angle first. Then cut very small cuts to follow. Just like a band saw, the wide the blade the fast the cut, but you have to make a much larger radius with it. Also, be very careful that the tip of the saw is level across the peice of timber or you will have a nice decorative peice on one side and a mess on the other. Just me 2 Cents. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmcmillan3698 Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 WindKnot: I'm trying to figure out the same exact thing you are. I'm constructing a pergola with 20' long, 6"x12" cedar timbers, and I need to shape the ends of each beam. See this picture: Can't exactly move 250 lb beams around a pattern with a scroll saw It seems like a lot of work like this is done with bearing-guided straight bits and routers following a jig, but I haven't found a router bit that is 6" long, for good reason. I need the strength of the 6" beam to span the 16' between posts, so I can't go thinner, although I'm thinking about going with 4"x12" for the stringers, since they won't have any load on them. Anyone have any suggestions? Can't imagine using a chainsaw or recip, for exactly the reason you indicate - would be tough to keep it 100% perpendicular as you make the cuts. Anyone ever used a handheld band saw for something like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 A couple ways I've seen this done. Is to use a set of ladders and a BS on a mobile base. Set the beam on the ladder the height of the table and move the BS to make the cuts. Here's what I did on my pergola, I cut a template for the thunderbird pattern and first used an top bearing router bit to start the cut, then flipped the beams and used bottom bearing pattern bit to finish the profile. My pergola is 6x6 uprights mortised into 4x6 beam and 3x6 beams on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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