Tapering with a jointer


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I do same as Trip, except I clean with a #5 because I don't have a #7. Like he said - definitely more efficient and safer, especially on a bandsaw. I honestly can't imagine why you'd do it on a jointer unless you didn't own a bandsaw or table saw. 

Ic. I was interested because I thought it might be faster than setting up a jig for a TS cut then cleaning up on the jointer or with a hand plane...thanks for the input.

I know a lot of times people will exaggerate and say "oh building the jig only takes five minutes" but this is a case where it's true.  Building a simple table saw taper jig takes < 5 minutes. 

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==>thought it might be faster than setting up a jig for a TS

Many moons ago, I built an adjustable TS jig... It takes less than a minute to setup for just about any taper... I can taper four legs in under five minutes... No exaggeration... I'm not sure where I found the design (probably a FWW Method's of Work article)... I'm sure there are many on the internet... If not, I'll shoot a photo of mine...

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I've never done tapers start to finish on the jointer but I've cleaned them up after bandsaw/table saw several times.  Usually only junglewood...I'll take the handplane to domestics.

Just so you know, JT...you don't have to have a jig to cut tapers on the bandsaw.  Just freehand right outside the line then clean up.  I would argue this is faster than doing it at the jointer alone.

In my shop the jointer is a one trick pony...a face and an edge flat and square is its only job.  I've found faster and easier ways to do everything else the jointer can do.

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Norm always used to clean up table sawn cut tapers (usually legs) with a light pass on the jointer. I personally would never do the start to finish method but cut on the TS using a suitable workholding jig and then finish with a jointer plane or jack.

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I've used the jointer, table saw, and band saw.

I prefer the table saw, with a good 20 tooth rip blade, for the fastest, most identical legs.  Combo blades will often burn thick rips, thin blades may deflect, creating a curved definition from taper to flat.

As for time spent making a jig...  Remember, only people on the Internet spend many hours and dollars building pretty and widely adjustable infrequent use jigs.  My taper jig is simply a 3/4" birch ply floor glued to a single  1/4" plywood runner, with the reference line created by a pass through the blade..  The cleats that locate the blanks are simply screwed in place using a mark on the first blank.  Last, I screw two snap clamps to the floor.

I think it took 20 minutes to make, including a coffee refill.   Sometimes, I steal the clamps for other uses.  For different tapers, I simply unscrew the clamps and cleats and move them...  The reference line always stays the same, because the blade is always the same distance from the miter slot.  Who cares if the jig looks like something from "Shop Notes", the output looks terrific!

 

For more than two tapered sides, simply tape an offcut back on, appropriately located to account for the kerf.

If anybody wants a picture, just let me know...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by CessnaPilotBarry
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==>Right after a No. 5

Every try cross-cutting a series of kerfs along the taper? Would make hogging-off the waste with a #5 go a bit faster...

Once, just to be used as depth indicators. But that seemed like more work and thus it took longer.  First time I did it by hand, I was truly amazed at just how fast it goes.  (Really the wrong forum for this.  Didn't mean to pull this away from the OP's request which I've never tried and probably never would.)

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