Design for Replicating Crib. Help! ($)

[mike12ophone]

I'm trying to build a crib, replicating one I found online. It's MDF sides, acrylic front & back, walnut trim, and sitting on short almost hidden feet. This seems a little complicated and not having plans makes me a little nervous especially given its intended application. I'd love some help with mocking up a design to work out the cuts and such. I've got reference pictures and a closeup video. Sorry if this is offensive to anyone considering I'm trying to rip off someone's design but it'll just be for my boy coming in the summer. I'd, of course, like to work out compensation. Help!

 

Here's what I know of the original:

30”D 53.5”W 36”H, 150 lbs
Sides are 1" walnut
Base and platform birch construction. 
End panels are Eco-MDF
The acrylic slats measure 3” across and the spacing between is 1”

[JosephThomas]

Not sure I understand...do you have a photo of what you're trying to mimic so we can understand what you're aiming for?

Also ... I could be wrong, but I don't think it's illegal to borrow ideas from, or be inspired by, someone else's design if you are just building something for personal use. If you are trying to build a bunch of these to sell, different story.

[mike12ophone]

Yeah I have photos but I'm being intentionally a little vague because I'm not totally sure of the legal issues and forum rules around this issue. In any case it's just for me and my coming son. I don't want to infringe in the maker's IP nor would I feel comfortable selling cribs just because of the liability involved.  

 

 

[JosephThomas]

Nothing wrong with posting pics of other people's stuff. Selling them is the problem, so no worries.

Seems like the build wouldn't be too complex. Have you used sketchup before?  A lot of us use that, it works pretty well for woodworking... I'd suggest downloading that and watching a couple youtube tutorials to get familiar with the program.  Unless you were asking to pay someone to do that work... in that case, I'd think a little more info about what tools you have access to would help in designing a build you could accomplish easily.

[wdwerker]

Even if you can draw in Sketchup or some other program I,find,that drawing full size on a sheet of 1/4" MDF lets you see how much space is available for joinery. How the curves on the ends look, spacing of the slats etc.

[wtnhighlander]

So, what part do you need help with? The visible part is a very basic box structure, just made with different materials. If the supports for holding the mattress are in question, check out Matt Cremona on Youtube, as he recently built a very nice crib and described the support system pretty well.

[cody]

Knowing the damage my infant caused to his solid wood crib by chewing on it I would be very hesitant to use MDF in this design. The child more than likely will end up ingesting some of the MDF.  

If you do go with MDF be careful where you source it from.  I used MDF (from a major box store) for wainscot paneling in the nursery and the air tests in the room after the construction were 5x normal limits of formaldehyde. Ripped the MDF out and level went back to normal.  Rebuilt it again using radiata pine. 

[JosephThomas]

1 hour ago, cody said:

air tests

Hate to hijack, but what did you use to test?

[mike12ophone]

Lots of good info.. I'm starting from basically nothing so all the tools for this are going to be purchased or rented. The closest thing to wood working I've done is whittleing a stick while camping. This looks to be pretty simple to my inexperoenced eyesand I'm generally handy and careful so I think I can tackle this. The lack of any plan or cut list makes me nervous. Especially the structure of the bottom where I have no photos of. I'm sure there are standard ways to do a box like this and it would save me lots of time with experimentation. 

[wtnhighlander]

Do you have access to a tablesaw? I mean a full sized one, not a job site saw you can lift and carry by your self.

[mike12ophone]

No I dont. Everything I read says get that first.. I plan on getting a used benchtop one. I have a tiny 1 car garage so Im going set up a modular shop with everything on casters. 

Why a full sized one? 

[wtnhighlander]

Too many operations are difficult or unsafe on a small saw. Some folks manage by building a work surface around the saw table, but there are still issues with cut quality, fence alignment, and non-standard accessories. If at all possible, I recommend going for what used to be called a "contractor" saw, which has a larger cast iron table, belt drive motor, better fence, standard sized slots, etc... The Rigid models from Home Depot are popular, and still move around the shop easily on casters.

Anyway, I can describe how to make those panels with a tablesaw and drill, but the pieces are large enough that I would bw concerned about handling them on a tiny job site saw.

[mike12ophone]

That would be awesome! I'm planning, at a minimum, to buy or rent a table saw, router, and palm or orbital sander. I've got a dewalt cordless driver. Hopefully with these three tools (plus glue, screws, finish stuff) I'll have what I need.

This is a video with some closeup shots. Video 

Oh also any tips for constructing it so it can be taken apart for long term storage if possible. If this makes the build exponentially more difficult then maybe not but I like the idea of cross dowels but again I've got no idea what is typically used. I saw Matt Cremona used brass pins which is cool but id ideally not like to see the hardware.

wtnhighlander, if you could help you'd be my hero haha. My wife is, surprisingly, being supportive but that could go away and jeopardize my new hobby if this doesn't go well haha. 

[cody]

Joseph - we used Home Air Check http://www.homeaircheck.com/

Mike - You might also want to see if there is a Maker community in your town. I know where I live for $45/month you get access to their facility and all of their power tools (higher quality tools than I can afford). Don't get me wrong, I'm a fan of any excuse to buy a tool but I've also learned the hard way that you should try to buy the tool that will last and cry once at checkout vs replacing the tool in a few years

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lee Bussy]

+1 on checking what's local.  I have a woodworking guild here that's awesome and they have classes on a regular basis.

I applaud your drive and determination to do this.  9 months will go quick however so there's no time to waste since you also need to lean HOW to do this in that time.  I hope you don't get discouraged through this as learning + design + build is quite a bit to bite off.

As an alternative:  I know you have your heart set on THAT crib, but maybe look and see what plans are already available?  A quick Google search for "woodworking crib plans" turned up a lot of hits.  If you can buy a set of plans your chance of success goes up exponentially.

Some have mentioned Sketchup - I love this tool.  Here is a crib model available free for Sketchup:

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?redirect=1&mid=e387bbcd927a22a4c2374e32890edde1&id=e387bbcd927a22a4c2374e32890edde1

It's not exactly "buildable" as-is, but it's a starting place.

ETA:  If you are doing this to have an heirloom piece that YOU made then you are on the right track.  If you are doing this to save money I want to caution you that this rarely happens.

[mike12ophone]

That's a great tip about a maker space. I'll look into that.

I tried to find existing plans but the design committee has her heart set on that walnut/acrylic one. I thought about getting several plans to pick up ideas and techniques to use and modifying them for this application. I thought trying to ping the forums to draw on the expertise here. I mean other than cutting and sanding the acrylic, this should be a straight-forward box right? Am I underestimating the difficulty involved? It looks like all butt joints with dado grooves for the acrylic panels. 

Also seeing how much the walnut and acrylic cost set my expectations. If I can accomplish this for around $300 - $400 I'll be happy

[Lee Bussy]

No it doesn't look all that difficult.  You might try making some larger boxes with cheap plywood to get your plan down.  It's surprisingly difficult your first few times to get 4 panels to line up correctly when they are that big.  Even MFD to test it out - cheap and you can use the pieces later for jigs and whatnot.

If it were me I might look to use a barrel nut and bolt rather than a screw.   It fits with your knockdown desire, and won't be damaged by repeated assembly/disassembly.  It's also likely a lot stronger than end-grain screws.  I'd explain that further but it seems like you are Googling it as you go along (and that's awesome by the way - not making fun) and I'm betting that one is pretty easy to find.

Whatever clear plastic you end up using, be sure it's not going to break and leave sharp edges.  I believe acrylic is a good material but don't quote me on it.  A glass place can guide you right.

[wtnhighlander]

I think you are right, the construction looks like tongue & groove between the slats and the top rail and bottom panel. Inserting filler strips between the slats gives it the appearance of mortise and tenon. For sure, barrel bolts are used to attach the ends to the sides. The acrylic looks to be at least 3/8", maybe 1/2". If you want the cutouts as shown, prepare for a LOT of awkward polishing. Maybe someone else has tips for working the acrylic.

Did you plan to do all walnut & acrylic, or just one side walnut with the other painted like the photo?

[mike12ophone]

Yeah those acrylic cutouts worry me a bit. A router and a spindle sander seem like they'd do the trick but I have to find one or maybe a Dremel would work. I read that a torch will give that glassy finished look. Still need more research. Wish there was an acrylic talk forum haha.

Im planning on replicating those pictures as close as possible. Acrylic, framed in walnut for the sides, MDF (or anything that paints well really) for the end pieces, and the same for the floor. Honestly I'd rather not use walnut due to the cost. All I want is a really dark stained/dyed finished with visible grain.

[wtnhighlander]

If the cost of walnut is an issue, consider poplar as an alternative. You will have to dye it for the color you want, but it is usually much cheaper, and works easily. Just a bit softer than walnut, not much.

Personally, I would avoid MDF. Not just because kiddies chew their furniture, but also because I think the barrel-bolt (aka bed bolts or bench bolts) joints will be stronger in solid wood. MDF is for ... well, I dunno, I hardly ever use the stuff. Anyway, Rockler or Woodcraft sell the bolts. I'm sure plenty of other hardware places do also, possibly under different names.

Beware, making this yourself is HIGHLY unlikely to save any money over just buying it. If that is your goal, better take time for a reality check.

As for the acrylic, while it is possible to melt the cut edge to achieve the clarity seen in the photo, it is pretty tricky. Use sharp cutting tools, proper tool speed and feed rate to avoid melting, and sand / polish as far as possible before attempting it. A very light touch with the flame is important, otherwise the surface may deform and go bubbly. I've only worked the stuff a few times, but those are my "lessons learned".

If you still want to proceed, and can nail down your tool options, I and the others will certainly offer advice and try to answer any questions you have.

Good luck!