Spending my $, New shop start Up


Curtis

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48 minutes ago, tomsteve said:

add an air filter along with the dust collection

Marc posted a video on his FaceBook page that shows some interesting result using an air filter & it's effect on airborne dust.

Airborne dust

He uses a particle counter to show just is going on when the filter is running & it can actually increase airborne dust while it is running. His suggestion is to run it after leaving the shop for the day.

Personally, I'd put that money into a better dust collection system,

 

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1 hour ago, drzaius said:

Marc posted a video on his FaceBook page that shows some interesting result using an air filter & it's effect on airborne dust.

Airborne dust

He uses a particle counter to show just is going on when the filter is running & it can actually increase airborne dust while it is running. His suggestion is to run it after leaving the shop for the day.

Personally, I'd put that money into a better dust collection system,

 

I don't want to go against the big guy on this one, but I have a JDS airtech, and swear by the thing. In fact, I probably wouldn't woodwork without it, because im in a basement like the OP is. I have a 3hp cyclone with 7" spiral duct, and the JDS performs cleanup duty on what the cyclone doesn't get at the source. I don't need a particle counter to know the thing is working, because I can use my nose. Run the drum sander/table saw and while I cant see dust, I can smell it. Smelling it means something is suspended in the air. Ten mins of letting the JDS do its thing leaves the air smelling--well, smelling like nothing. Now, I wear a 3M respirator most of the time(suggest the OP spend the $30 on one), but you don't want polluted air hanging about in your shop and migrating to your living space. I have all the vents in the basement sealed off, but it is still a shared airspace, so I know some of the air is mixing in some fashion. I will search for the magazine article, but they tested a handful of models and they all reduced the airborne dust substantially.  My empirical observations show the ambient filters do a bang up job. I wash my electrostatic filter once a month, and I know its catching dust. I replaced the internal filter with a high quality one from Wynn.

 

If I wasn't in a shared living space situation, then I could get behind the argument that they aren't necessary, but you need something to go at the air for an hour after you are done using the tools in a basement situation. Bill Pentz suggests an air cleaner--does that make my post credible or did it just blow up this guy's thread with pro/anti Pentz comments?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/4/2016 at 4:54 PM, drzaius said:

If it's in a shared space then using and air cleaner & exhausting it into the basement outside the shop will negatively pressurize the shop. That'll really keep the dust out of the rest of the house.

Hmm.  I just ordered a rikon 3 speed, 400 cfm air cleaner.  Im building a wall in the basement which seals off the shop area from the laundry area.  I could make a cutout for this thing to mount in and allow it to exhaust into the shared space like you said.  So does it work that when I open the door to shop air wants to "return" into the shop as opposed to blowing out into the shared space?  

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23 minutes ago, Curtis said:

Hmm.  I just ordered a rikon 3 speed, 400 cfm air cleaner.  Im building a wall in the basement which seals off the shop area from the laundry area.  I could make a cutout for this thing to mount in and allow it to exhaust into the shared space like you said.  So does it work that when I open the door to shop air wants to "return" into the shop as opposed to blowing out into the shared space?  

Even with the door closed there will be enough leakage to provide some return air to the shop. The main thing is to keep the air pressure in the shop lower than the rest of the house. That way dust will not escape. Best to leave the door closed or just open a crack.

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The mula has been spent!   Plus a little extra :)  I sold off a few of my nice old cameras to upgrade my table saw.  Things will start to trickle in for the next month, as some items are not currently in stock.  And while I wait, I now obsess over layout that will probably change anyway once I get everything going.  Anyone see major flaws in my logic on layout.  The rooms are basement and the exterior walls where the table saw/workbench exist are the ones that I added in the basement so I can actually hang cabs and stuff like that on them.  Rest of walls are foundation and I could add furring to at some point. All items will be on mobile bases.  Thanks for the help everyone

 

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Looks like you might run into stock length issues with the jointer, bandsaw and drill press. I would put the jointer parallel to the end of the tablesaw outfeed table with the feed going the opposite direction. I'd move the bandsaw where the jointer currently is and put the drill press centered against the short wall.

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7 minutes ago, Pwk5017 said:

Screw the layout, what did you buy?!?

:)
 

Delta 14" Bandsaw - Craigslist

Shopfox 1.5hp DC - Craigslist

Dewalt 735

Grizzly 8" Jointer (Non Helical, for now, I realized it would be the same price to buy a helical head later if needed)

Sawstop PCS 1.75hp, 36" w/ Mob base

Jessem Router Lift (Im thinking to put in the wing of SS)

500$ worth of clamps

And a 3 speed Air cleaner  

Still looking for a drill press on C-List

 

Pretty excited to be able to work in a shop that doesn't kick me out at 10 every night :) !!!

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, Curtis said:

Sawstop PCS 1.75hp, 36" w/ Mob base

Jessem Router Lift (Im thinking to put in the wing of SS)

Curtis, Contact SawStop about putting the lift in the right side wing of the saw.  They can be pretty helpful with modifications.  I called them a couple of times and they seemed eager to help with engineering.

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40 minutes ago, jmaichel said:

Looks like I am a little late to the party. Congrats on the new tools. I would have suggested you go with a TS55 based off the list of items you are looking to build. 

I definitely wrestled with that decision too. In the end I felt the table saw just offered a little more flexibility as my needs/wants change through the years. I also build many large hardwood frames which I am just have always done on table saws. But with that in mind, I am starting to save some $ for a nice track saw and a dominio. 

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20 hours ago, jmaichel said:

Looks like I am a little late to the party. Congrats on the new tools. I would have suggested you go with a TS55 based off the list of items you are looking to build. 

Are you advocating the track saw instead of his saw stop? I've only had my ts75 2ish months, but boy it makes me wonder why guys would choose that system over a table saw. I think my unisaw cost me about the same as my track saw with track and clamps($400-$500 each) and unisaw me would run circles around track saw me. It does things that my unisaw could only do with my jessem sliding table, but dammmmmnnnnn the system is slow. Dunno, I'm not arguing with the effectiveness of the track saw, but it shouldn't replace a traditional table saw. The best example is to watch the one guy on YouTube who owns every festool tool under the sun. He doesn't own a table saw, just the track saw. Anyways, watching him build a set of cabinets for his mom really makes you question not owning a table saw. The guy is using the parallel guide system with a track to rip 2.75" rails and stiles and it leaves you wondering, "why???", as you run to your shop to rip the same pieces in 1/10 the time. 

 

you have a pretty good setup out of the gate. Definitely a lineup to be proud of and do solid work with. 

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1 hour ago, Pwk5017 said:

Are you advocating the track saw instead of his saw stop? I've only had my ts75 2ish months, but boy it makes me wonder why guys would choose that system over a table saw. I think my unisaw cost me about the same as my track saw with track and clamps($400-$500 each) and unisaw me would run circles around track saw me. It does things that my unisaw could only do with my jessem sliding table, but dammmmmnnnnn the system is slow. Dunno, I'm not arguing with the effectiveness of the track saw, but it shouldn't replace a traditional table saw. The best example is to watch the one guy on YouTube who owns every festool tool under the sun. He doesn't own a table saw, just the track saw. Anyways, watching him build a set of cabinets for his mom really makes you question not owning a table saw. The guy is using the parallel guide system with a track to rip 2.75" rails and stiles and it leaves you wondering, "why???", as you run to your shop to rip the same pieces in 1/10 the time. 

 

you have a pretty good setup out of the gate. Definitely a lineup to be proud of and do solid work with. 

I agree with you. I love my tracksaw, but I would never give up my table saw! On-site here and there for one off weird cuts I can make do with the track saw... anything more than that I want the Table saw!. The Tracksaw is amazing for breaking down sheet goods accurately,  I love it for cabinet carcasses, and with an MFT it's awesome! But there are so many operations a table saw just kicks it's butt at!  I've seen the guys who ditch the table saw for it, and while I admire their  creativity, I personally end up with some sketchy setups, slower, workflow, and probably less accurate when trying to rip small stuff.  That's why I think you should have both! hahaha. 

 

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3 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

Are you advocating the track saw instead of his saw stop? I've only had my ts75 2ish months, but boy it makes me wonder why guys would choose that system over a table saw. I think my unisaw cost me about the same as my track saw with track and clamps($400-$500 each) and unisaw me would run circles around track saw me. It does things that my unisaw could only do with my jessem sliding table, but dammmmmnnnnn the system is slow. Dunno, I'm not arguing with the effectiveness of the track saw, but it shouldn't replace a traditional table saw. The best example is to watch the one guy on YouTube who owns every festool tool under the sun. He doesn't own a table saw, just the track saw. Anyways, watching him build a set of cabinets for his mom really makes you question not owning a table saw. The guy is using the parallel guide system with a track to rip 2.75" rails and stiles and it leaves you wondering, "why???", as you run to your shop to rip the same pieces in 1/10 the time. 

 

you have a pretty good setup out of the gate. Definitely a lineup to be proud of and do solid work with. 

No not at all. I would still go with the Saw Stop, but the TS 55 would take priority over some of the other tools on his list. Honestly if you intend to build cabinets and built ins, then a bandsaw might not make as much sense as a TS55 initially. I should have been a little more clear, I don't think that a track saw can (or should) replace a table saw. I was just trying to suggest tools that would match the type of woodworking he was wanting to accomplish with said budget. In all reality a table saw and track saw complement one another quite nicely. I agree with you, there is no way I would want to rip thin strips using a track saw but I would also not want to break down a full sheet of plywood using just my table saw. 

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