C Nelson Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I intend to install some inexpensive paneling in my dry basement. It is in an area I use for my workshop so I'm not real fussy about how it will look. My primary objective si to cover the studs and insulation. My intention is to install the paneling directly over the studs and nail or glue them. But I've read information online that unless the paneling is over ¼" it should be installed over sheetrock. I have no intention of also installing sheet rock. Why the requirement for sheetrock? Does it have something to do with buckling? Is there anything I can do to mitigate that? Is there a difference between cheap 4x8 ($12/each) paneling and more expensive ($20/each) paneling in terms of buckling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I've heard from people that build theater sets that 1/4" Luan plywood over studs works fine. It just won't be very durable. As long as your not hitting it with anything i don't see why 1/4" won't work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I remember my dad doing this years back in the basement and like you he was just trying to cover the studs, nothing fancy. The only thing I recall was a slight waviness to the paneling when you looked down the wall because of a lack of support for the paneling between the studs. It didn't look bad, it just didn't look perfect. you might even have better luck because you should get some support from the insulation if it is thick enough, the walls my dad did where interior and not insulated. I think you will be fine. The thing that will cut down on the buckling or waviness is the thickness of the paneling not the cost. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I think you would be better served if you put up the sheetrock, especially if you intend to insulate. Just don't worry about the tape and float part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfowler Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 no matter what you do put up you will need to put a moisture barrier, even the most dry basement will have moisture, The price from cheap panel and sheet rock is minimal, rock will be just as easy if not easier, since you not worry about looks, I was a photographer in a studio for a long time and all our sets were built with 1/4" Luan plywood very durable, also sub flooring will have a built in barrier, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Lots of cheap paneling is 1/8 or particleboard and 1/4 . Both of those need some sort of backing . 1/4 ply type paneling will do OK , not perfect or great but OK. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Woodenskye Posted February 2, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I would use 1/2 OSB and paint it, that way you can at least use the wall space better than you could with paneling or 1/4 luan. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 OSB gets my vote also. Good sheathing will be ok with humidity also. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFatBaron Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Also, I have a suspicion the 'minimum 1/4" thickness' is assuming insulated walls, to make sure your extremely flammable insulation is sufficiently protected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I'd guess the insulation would be fiberglass batts and not very flammable. I'm also guessing the minimum suggested thickness would be due to wavyness in the finished product. My house has about 1/8-3/16" paneling on the walls in the bedrooms, you can tell there is no gyp. bd. behind it as it flexes pretty easy. If you are just looking to cover the insulation I think it would be fine to use the cheap stuff. If you ever want to hang heavy stuff find a stud, easy because the walls flex. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Fiberglass bats...not very flammable...here it requires fire taped drywall between fiberglass and ignition sources. I know electrical boxes often have holes in them, but for some reason they want a true barrier over fiberglass. I would guess that is because it behaves in some unbeneficial way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 My vote would be exterior wood siding. It has a more finished look than OSB, is designed for moisture, and is stiffer than interior paneling. Paint or stain it and it will look good for a utility grade basement. You can pick thickness, but they have 11/32 thick at Lowes in our area for $22 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 My entire shop is covered in 3/4" OSB including the ceiling. And I didn't even bother to paint it! I like it because you can drive a nail or a screw in it and then if you remove the nail, you can hardly see the hole. It is there but the real evidence is the lighter color where the shelf or cabinet was. IMO, the only way to fly for a shop where things get moved around from time to time. Rog 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 The recommendation for installing thin panel over drywall may be related to fire codes. Where I live, I would have to cover the wall between my garage and house with 1/2" or thicker drywall as a fire barrier, no matter what the final covering is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFatBaron Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 2 hours ago, xxdabroxx said: I'd guess the insulation would be fiberglass batts and not very flammable. 2 hours ago, C Shaffer said: Fiberglass bats...not very flammable...here it requires fire taped drywall between fiberglass and ignition sources. I know electrical boxes often have holes in them, but for some reason they want a true barrier over fiberglass. I would guess that is because it behaves in some unbeneficial way. 34 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: The recommendation for installing thin panel over drywall may be related to fire codes. Where I live, I would have to cover the wall between my garage and house with 1/2" or thicker drywall as a fire barrier, no matter what the final covering is. Yes. The fiberglass itself is not flammable but the vapor barrier is will go up instantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I still fail to see how adding only a thin layer of plywood will make him less safe... 14 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: The recommendation for installing thin panel over drywall may be related to fire codes. Where I live, I would have to cover the wall between my garage and house with 1/2" or thicker drywall as a fire barrier, no matter what the final covering is. That is in a garage, where presumably combustibles will be stored. There is also generally a requirement to add additional fireproofing anytime the garage walls are supporting living space above. Usually 2 layers of rock. You also have to raise a gas water heater 18" off of the ground in a garage to, but it doesn't mean you have to elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 10 minutes ago, xxdabroxx said: I still fail to see how adding only a thin layer of plywood will make him less safe... That is in a garage, where presumably combustibles will be stored. There is also generally a requirement to add additional fireproofing anytime the garage walls are supporting living space above. Usually 2 layers of rock. You also have to raise a gas water heater 18" off of the ground in a garage to, but it doesn't mean you have to elsewhere. You are up against local codes. Here, the water heater must be up in a basement as well since they can flood with a burst pipe. You are better off not improving the space rather than bucking code and having your insurance fail to pay a claim. Drywall is so cheap if you are going to cover it and not need it as a show surface. The T-111 is not a bad route but it tends to smell forever. Just thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWRFULZ3R0 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I don't think you want to put up a moisture barrier. You want the walls to breath outward. If you trap any moisture behind the barrier it will breath upward to your joists and rot them out and/or create a place for mold to grow. http://m.finehomebuilding.com/design/departments/engert-smart-details/basement-insulation-retrofits.aspx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Nelson Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Thanks for all the advice. I am the originator of this thread. I did speak to my building inspector and I do not need to install sheetrock or a vapor barrier over my studs (that already have insulation tucked in between). So at this stage I am trying to decide what to install. I'm scared off by the prospect of the thin paneling buckling or curling. I'm surprised to hear that it would do that. I wonder if I nailed the paneling every 16" on the studs whether it would still buckle? I did see some a few other options at my home center today. Any comments on the plusses and minuses of these? ¼" medium density fiberboard ¼" hardboard with white laminate ¼" birch plywood (a little pricey) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Nailing makes no difference. Studs move. The thin panelings will move with the studs and deform. Thicker paneling controls some of the stud movement and resists deformation. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisDraper Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Any 1/4" material will struggle to stay flat on the wall without some additional support behind it. Most of what they are selling as 1/4" is even thinner than advertised. Even R13 insulation in a 2 x 4 stud pocket will need some force on the interior sheeting to get it to lay flat on the studs. 1/4" material may make that more difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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