Cliff

In before price increase - barely!

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Anyone else picking up their needed stuff? I almost waited because if I played my cards right I could pick up a drum sander in the next few weeks, but the price increase and the fact that I'll use this thing on virtually everything I touch sold me.

Also picked up the bosch shop vac/35mm hose thing since I don't have a Festool extractor, and packs of 80, 120, 180, 220, 320 paper. I think it's the price per box of sandpaper sheets that hurt the most, except the 320, it's only $14 for a 10 pack.

priceincrease.png

 

EDIT - Just looked at their price increases again and saw that this thing isn't even going up anyway. So I didn't exactly win here, but I got my sander, so who cares.

Edited by Cliff
No price increase for 150/3
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@Cliff Why are you going with Brilliant? Are you sanding paint and varnish off of things? At 120 grit for "fine wood sanding" I wouldn't go Brilliant. You're better off with Granat if you're looking to use it on wood. 

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11 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

@Cliff Why are you going with Brilliant? Are you sanding paint and varnish off of things? At 120 grit for "fine wood sanding" I wouldn't go Brilliant. You're better off with Granat if you're looking to use it on wood. 

Well that's the sort of info I needed beforehand sir. Should I be focused on Granat for 80-180?

I think I ended up Brilliant because of an article I read online weeks ago that said to use it. Added it to my wishlist and then just went with what was on my wishlist. As a first time Festool sander buyer - I find the sandpaper selection extremely confusing.


This is currently what is in my order:

Brilliant 2 320

Brilliant 2 220

Rubin 80

Brilliant 2 120

Brilliant 2 180

I can cancel items and get different ones if I act fast enough. Would appreciate any advice.

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Just now, Cliff said:

Well that's the sort of info I needed beforehand sir. Should I be focused on Granat for 80-180?

I think I ended up Brilliant because of an article I read online weeks ago that said to use it. Added it to my wishlist and then just went with what was on my wishlist. As a first time Festool sander buyer - I find the sandpaper selection extremely confusing.

 

 

http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/Abrasives_brochure.pdf

Granat lasts an exceptionally long time. The sander comes with 1 piece of 80 grit. For bare wood I use either Rubin or Granat. My sanding schedule is usually 80-120-180-220 for most pieces. Depending on the type of wood I might break out some 100 and 150 in between. I never really go higher than 220 unless it's a piece I turned, then I go to 600 or 1000.

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6 minutes ago, Cliff said:

Well that's the sort of info I needed beforehand sir. Should I be focused on Granat for 80-180?

I think I ended up Brilliant because of an article I read online weeks ago that said to use it. Added it to my wishlist and then just went with what was on my wishlist. As a first time Festool sander buyer - I find the sandpaper selection extremely confusing.

 

 

It is confusing cliff.  Granat is good all around, Rubin is good on bare wood and Brilliant is good on finishes.  They are user guides out there but I found it easier just to memorize those 3 situations.   I have a mix of granat and rubin for under 220 grit and brilliant for 220 and above.   Amazon's selection can be spotty and it is not always clear in the description if it is 6" or 5" paper.   I started buying from bob marino's festool store because it is better indexed and he offers free and quick shipping. 

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Thanks guys for the input. I was able to cancel out the sandpaper.. Then I reordered Granat. Then I read Mike's message about the confusion between 5 and 6" and checked my order to see that the reorder was all 5" and cancelled those too. I see what you mean, one I couldn't even find any indication. I think I will hit up Bob Marino's.

Again, thanks a ton to both of you. You probably just saved me a ton of headache and money.

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3 minutes ago, Mike. said:

 

I'm glad I'm not alone in my confusion. I'm just two years late to the party. I had $200+ in sandpaper ordered, thinking I was set for years.

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I'm going today to pick up a second edge guide for my OF1400 but, that's about it for me.  I just don't see much more FT in my future as I have everything that I want/need.  Obviously the consumables will always be on the list.

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I did buy the CT acessory kit for vacuuming floors.  I used it to vacuum the wood floors in my home and now I want to get another CT strictly for household use. It did so much better than our upright vacuum (also expensive German kit, it is made by Miele). 

I'd like a tracksaw and MFT but that is a 2017 purchase.  

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Tracksaw is on my list for April purchase as well but I'm hard pressed to justify a Festool on that when I can get the dewalt with the 102" and 59" track for $613. And I think it will do me just fine. I'd prefer the Festool but the real killer is the big track price. $328 for 106".

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I was eyeballing the ETS EC 150/3 since it came out and I just finally picked it up. Also not going up on price... But glad I got it now anyway. It's a very nice piece of kit.   As much as I love my Festool stuff, I also just couldn't see the additional $ for the tracksaw so I got the Makita instead. I've been very happy with it. Tracks are compatible too which is handy.  Comes in a Systainer too which is handy for stacking when on the go.  The power cord is annoyingly short though. I keep saying I'm going to mod it with a Plug-It, but haven't had the free time to figure it out. 

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Track saw is my next pickup and I've flipped flopped between Festool and Makita so many times it makes my head spin. I've currently settled on the ts55. But buying day is at least 2 weeks away so I can't be sure how many more times I will change my mind. I think the major deciding factors were:

-already have 2 festool, if I get a vac, I'll have three items that get the most out of it.
-I think it has a couple of safety features that the Makita doesn't.

I already picked up the Freud rip and general purpose blades, since it fits both.
 

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Cliff, whichever way you go, I'm sure you'll be happy - I love having a tracksaw.  I don't know much about the Makita, but one other thing to consider in favor of the Festool, though, is the MFT worktable.  It works really well with the tracksaw.

 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, -MattK- said:

Cliff, whichever way you go, I'm sure you'll be happy - I love having a tracksaw.  I don't know much about the Makita, but one other thing to consider in favor of the Festool, though, is the MFT worktable.  It works really well with the tracksaw.

 

 

 

Yes! That was another consideration. I may not have any use for the MFT now, but maybe I will later.

Honestly I'm tossing around the idea of attempting to do everything via track saw that my table would do (cept dado) and see if I can remove my table saw from my shop until I can get a Sawstop. MFT would help with that if I understand it's functionality.

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2 hours ago, Cliff said:

Yes! That was another consideration. I may not have any use for the MFT now, but maybe I will later.

Honestly I'm tossing around the idea of attempting to do everything via track saw that my table would do (cept dado) and see if I can remove my table saw from my shop until I can get a Sawstop. MFT would help with that if I understand it's functionality.

You'll be happy either way. But FWIW I use the Makita with an MFT and a Festool CT36 almost daily. The same functionality is there regardless of saw. The Makita will run on the Festool Rails just fine. You just loose the anti-tip lock since Festool doesn't have that on their saw.  On the FOG it seems most guys ditch the MFT's included miter guide setup and just use dogs anyway. Knowing that was 50% of the reason I bought a replacement MFT top and made my own table with it. Dust extraction port is the also the same.   It will run Festool blades, but they're a few MM smaller so the scoring feature won't work, and you'll obviously loose a little plunge depth.  But I've still used them no problem. The Makita blade gives quite nice results on it's own anyway, though I just picked up the new Infinity track master blade, so I'm looking forward to giving that a test ASAP.  

Just some info for those debating between the saws.  Really the only thing that is a minor annoyance is the lack of Plug-it since I'm so Festool invested. But I'll remedy that soon. ;)  I think any of the better track saws will leave a user happy with their purchase.  As for ditching the table saw..... nope. No way. Not happening.  They compliment each other well, but There are some things that a table saw is better and/or more efficient at.   

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34 minutes ago, kbj said:

 As for ditching the table saw..... nope. No way. Not happening.  They compliment each other well, but There are some things that a table saw is better and/or more efficient at.   

There are plenty of people who have done just that. Removing the table saw doesn't mean you are doing it more efficiently or the same with the track saw, but that you accept the loss in efficiency to gain the room of not having the table saw.

Besides, it would be temporary. It would be selling my current saw then saving for a Sawstop. Since I'm a hobbyist, efficiency isn't my top goal. But quality is pretty up there and I'm displeased with my table saw at the moment.

Another option for me is to start upgrading the saw but I'll never upgrade the motor to be more powerful so that solution has it's limits.

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9 minutes ago, Cliff said:

There are plenty of people who have done just that. Removing the table saw doesn't mean you are doing it more efficiently or the same with the track saw, but that you accept the loss in efficiency to gain the room of not having the table saw.

Besides, it would be temporary. It would be selling my current saw then saving for a Sawstop. Since I'm a hobbyist, efficiency isn't my top goal. But quality is pretty up there and I'm displeased with my table saw at the moment.

Another option for me is to start upgrading the saw but I'll never upgrade the motor to be more powerful so that solution has it's limits.

Was just offering my opinion since I do a lot of work with both. Everyone has their own work style, projects, and timelines. Most of the videos I've seen where people replace the table saw, it seems like they're doing it more to prove it can be done. Absolutely fine. More power to them. I can tell you though from experience, if you ever have to rip down a few hundred feet of face from material and some of that is form 2 1/2" to 2", you'll want a table saw. well at least I did last week when I was doing some built ins an just brought the tracksaw. After admitting how slow it was, I took the wood home, ripped it nice and quick the next am, and went back with a bunch of proper sized wood.  Like I said It's just my opinion, projects, and work style. Always thought that was the reason for a Forum was to share opinions. 

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8 minutes ago, kbj said:

Was just offering my opinion since I do a lot of work with both. Everyone has their own work style, projects, and timelines. Most of the videos I've seen where people replace the table saw, it seems like they're doing it more to prove it can be done. Absolutely fine. More power to them. I can tell you though from experience, if you ever have to rip down a few hundred feet of face from material and some of that is form 2 1/2" to 2", you'll want a table saw. well at least I did last week when I was doing some built ins an just brought the tracksaw. After admitting how slow it was, I took the wood home, ripped it nice and quick the next am, and went back with a bunch of proper sized wood.  Like I said It's just my opinion, projects, and work style. Always thought that was the reason for a Forum was to share opinions. 

I wasn't insulting you man. Or saying you are wrong. Just that people do it. I don't feel like it's the choice for me in the long run. And also.. I'm not like heavily leaning towards this either. It was a thought that I had.

I am the type that seems to get annoyed if the machine isn't up to my standards, and that is what is happening with the table saw at the moment. It bogs down on 8/4, The fence is not perfectly straight, the steel wings have bent down on the right side. The fence doesn't glide as smooth as it should on the rails, and when it locks down it tends to push to the right a bit. So I definitely want a new one. If selling mine will get me say.. $400 that is $400 closer to the Sawstop solution. Possibly I could go that long without it. Maybe. Idle speculation, as I said.

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