Closing kerf on Tablesaw


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The hole for the two tabs on the MJ splitter are the same size but the rear all plastic part has an adapter designed to allow the splitter to get pinched and ride with the board. All the necessary hardware and drill bits are included and have on board storage. The guide even has storage for the extra splitters that you may not be using.

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I received mine today. Way more than I expected! Drilling template, and even a drill bit. I haven't installed it yet but I can tell it's well worth the $$$$$. Sorry to be doubtful. 

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Sometimes you just can't win. I went to rip a 2" wide piece of Wenge on the TS the other day, perfectly acceptable, right? Well... The darn piece spread apart at the kerf 5/16" extra (of course, on the fence side, bowing the middle of the cut inwards towards the blade) over 10" of rip length. I gave up at the 10" mark and just went for another piece of stock.

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55 minutes ago, PlaneAndDestroy said:

Sometimes you just can't win. I went to rip a 2" wide piece of Wenge on the TS the other day, perfectly acceptable, right? Well... The darn piece spread apart at the kerf 5/16" extra (of course, on the fence side, bowing the middle of the cut inwards towards the blade) over 10" of rip length. I gave up at the 10" mark and just went for another piece of stock.

You hear about the wood closing and pinching the blade but not so about your problem, which to me, is just as dangerous. Glad you didn't try to continue the push thru!

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5 hours ago, PlaneAndDestroy said:

Sometimes you just can't win. I went to rip a 2" wide piece of Wenge on the TS the other day, perfectly acceptable, right? Well... The darn piece spread apart at the kerf 5/16" extra (of course, on the fence side, bowing the middle of the cut inwards towards the blade) over 10" of rip length. I gave up at the 10" mark and just went for another piece of stock.

Easy fix there,  don't use wenge.  It's hateful to begin with. B)

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