Chestnut

Floor and Mallet

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Not sure about the true, thru tenon, but a lot of the ones I've seen, and the one I made, are laminated, with the handle extending thru the head (?), giving the appearance of a thru tenon. The one you made should last till the cows come home!

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nice looking mallet chestnut, definitely an upgrade from the old one, i know for myself if i wasn't getting better at woodworking as i go along i might quit. I've only made one myself, hard maple, laminated like Coop but i wedged the top of the handle with hickory, think axe handle

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18 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

nice looking mallet chestnut, definitely an upgrade from the old one, i know for myself if i wasn't getting better at woodworking as i go along i might quit. I've only made one myself, hard maple, laminated like Coop but i wedged the top of the handle with hickory, think axe handle

I only made the old one a year ago. It's intimidating but nice being at the beginning stage you progress fast but there is always so much more to learn.

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Nice looking mallet.  I have a question. I Never used wood mallet. I have a small mallet with 2 striking surfaces made of some kind of composite plastic - tough as hell but not must heft to it.  What are the advantages of a good wooden mallet and how much should it weigh?  How long should it be?

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24 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

Nice looking mallet.  I have a question. I Never used wood mallet. I have a small mallet with 2 striking surfaces made of some kind of composite plastic - tough as hell but not must heft to it.  What are the advantages of a good wooden mallet and how much should it weigh?  How long should it be?

Having those large faces, for a clumsy guy like me, makes it so much more enjoyable to use. Missing the chisel is just 1 less thing to worry about.

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8 hours ago, Ronn W said:

Nice looking mallet.  I have a question. I Never used wood mallet. I have a small mallet with 2 striking surfaces made of some kind of composite plastic - tough as hell but not must heft to it.  What are the advantages of a good wooden mallet and how much should it weigh?  How long should it be?

I think the point for a joinery mallet is being able to smack a chisel pretty hard when your hogging out mortises while still being some what agile for finesse work.

I made mine roughly off of what G S Haydon made in a video not that long ago and Paul Sellers Joinery mallet. 14" handle with the head being 16/4 measuring 6" x 4". I just grabbed scraps for mine.

1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

Plus, swinging one makes you feel like Thor!

Not going to lie that thought came up a few times making this. My Norwegian ancestors might be somewhat proud ... or embarrassed that it's so puny.

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Hammer was a hit with my friends most of them were appalled that i was going to actually use it to smash chisels. I got a coat of ARS on it but i needed to use it so i could only get 1. First time using ARS and that stuff is interesting, jury is still out though needs further deliberation.

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Well most thought it'd be better to redo the floors than to lay new. Turned out ok there are some area's where there was damage to the flooring that just can't be fixed. The patches turned out ok. They will be very obvious because the wood is 90 years apart in age.

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Congrats on the new mallet and the floor looks great. The one on the right, is that what bay windows looked like 90 years ago?

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57 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Congrats on the new mallet and the floor looks great. The one on the right, is that what bay windows looked like 90 years ago?

All the windows are new circa 1980. But the old windows were like 60" tall the new ones they put in are half the original height.

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2 hours ago, drzaius said:

I love me some site finished hardwood floor. Looks great!

After living with pre-finished at my parents house and site finished at my house there are advantages to both but you can't beat how smooth and flat site finished floors are.

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Got 3 coats on moving to trim. Does any one have advice on lumber for trim? I'm going to copy what was there which was 3/4" x 4-1/4". What do you pro's use? I was thinking pine but fighting bows and warps doesn't sound appealing. Next thought was poplar but i don't want to sink a ton of money in this (I'm not staying in this house long). Would MDF be stupid?

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Avoid the MDF. Any water and you're screwed. I'd stick with poplar or alder or something similar. I can't remember if I ever saw much alder when I lived in Fargo. God knows Minnesota has enough poplar to last a thousand lifetimes. I'd think you could get it fairly cheap.

And honestly, if you're not planning to stay there long, why not just buy some pre-made from Lumber Liquidators or HD or something? Its pretty cheap and you can get it unfinished so that you can finish it how you want.

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+1 on avoiding MDF trim. There are different qualities of MDF available, but any MDF trim I've seen is made of the very worst quality. It soaks up water like a sponge & you can pick it apart with your fingernails. It's about 6 levels below cardboard.

On the other hand, for my house, I made all the painted trim from MDF. But it's a lot harder, stronger & somewhat water resistant. It's held up very well.

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I guess i should have clarified I'd be buying sheet MDF and cutting the trim from it. One thing i researched was that MDF changes size with humidity a lot with one wall being 13 feet that worries me. @drzaius Did you just use box store sheets? Did you notice gaps forming on your trim?

Poplar and alder are too expensive out here ... oak is cheaper.

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Mdf is standard for trim here. It comes primed and holds up very well. If you are making the baseboards than poplar will be easier on your tools and takes paint really well. If you are buying it- mdf all the way.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, mkrusen said:

And honestly, if you're not planning to stay there long, why not just buy some pre-made from Lumber Liquidators or HD or something? Its pretty cheap and you can get it unfinished so that you can finish it how you want.

I agree with this.  If you are going to move ---KISS. Keep it simple...

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I guess i should have clarified I'd be buying sheet MDF and cutting the trim from it. One thing i researched was that MDF changes size with humidity a lot with one wall being 13 feet that worries me. @drzaius Did you just use box store sheets? Did you notice gaps forming on your trim?

Poplar and alder are too expensive out here ... oak is cheaper.

I got it from a real lumber yard, but that was almost 25 years ago, so I don't remember the brand. The water resistant MDF is usually quite a bit better quality. It's a good idea to prime on all sides with oil based paint for added moisture protection. I've had no issues with humidity changes.

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