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I don't think my Senco cost that much, but I don't remember.

Since I do/did everything, when building new houses,my goal was to get finished as quickly as possible, while doing the best job possible.

I painted walls before putting up any trim.  For door casings, I used back band molding.  All trim was also prefinished.  If you nail the casing where it will be under the backband, that's half the nail holes you don't have to deal with.  23 Ga. pins hold the backband on into the edges of the casing.  The backband was fitted before finishing. And finished before being put up. This ended with a perfect transition between the wall and casing with no cutting in of paint.

A similar thing was done for the baseboard by using a cap molding.  Baseboard was nailed low enough to be behind the shoe molding, and toenailed at the top that would be hid by the cap.  The cap, and shoe, was held on, after being fitted, and prefinished, with 23 ga. pins.  

Use stainless pins, and wet the hole behind the pin.  The wood will swell enough to cover the hole good enough for a tiny brush, or cloth, to do any touch up necessary.

I've had two different Architects tell me that I was the best finish carpenter that they've ever seen.  They didn't understand that there was more to it than simply the finish carpentry.  I also framed the house to make the finish work easier to get to perfection.

When using subcontractors to build a house, any one will want to get their job done as quickly as possible, and always leave extra work than absolutely necessary for the next guy.  I planned from the start, all the way through.

i never used a prehung door, and always made the trim too, so the whole process made a difference.  I could make a nice base cap for a lot less than 90 cents a foot, which is what it cost back then.

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4 minutes ago, Woodenskye said:

Might have been Tom C.  Who says there tools are overpriced, you obviously get 2 tools in 1.

Apparently they’re one step above his other tools;)

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Either "Shaneymack " or "Tom C " ...those are the only 2 with that many systainers that I can think of.  I do remember there was no ladder involved, just an incredibly tall stack of proof that serious money was spent. 

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I don't think it was shane because he generally kept his tools in the systainer. It might have been marc in the dream shop. I do remember the ladder not being involved but i don't have that many so i had to use the ladder. This worked really well and it was quite stable for the 5 min i needed it those systainers don't do much but collect dust for me.

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10 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Been told this should be required "reading".

 

Definitely!  Thanks for posting this "again".

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2 hours ago, estesbubba said:

I’ve been wanting to make these grill scrapers for a year and had some red oak scraps that were perfect. No more wire in my burgers!

D1206F11-7D59-41DC-8098-4B7275638366.thumb.jpeg.932e45b0f9f2f8011b2a5b62b67cac96.jpeg

I completely don't understand. 

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4 hours ago, estesbubba said:

I’ve been wanting to make these grill scrapers

Christmas Gifts?

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11 hours ago, Chet said:

Christmas Gifts?

Not Christmas gifts but I’m going to give some away. The short ones are for camping buddies. 

8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Careful ... they have a patent! :o

There are only 100 copies on Amazon, Etsy, etc... I actually got the idea from seeing them at a craft show my wife dragged me too...:wacko:

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2 hours ago, estesbubba said:

my wife dragged me too

Sometimes we need to do what they want so we can be allowed to do what we want... Sometimes.

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I realize I’ve done this bass ackwards but has anyone ever used a signature branding iron after applying ARS and if so, what were the results? 

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47 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

I realize I’ve done this bass ackwards but has anyone ever used a signature branding iron after applying ARS and if so, what were the results? 

I"ve done that Coop, mostly when i forget to do it on the unfinished wood, it works but you get some burning around the edges of the brand, even on unfinished wood i get burning on the edges sometimes, easily comes off with a light sanding with a sanding block, the same works for finished pieces, light sanding then i wipe on a light coat of ARS.

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Thanks Dave. Usually I’ll burn it, then sand the unwanted part off, then put on a finish. These are toys for my bosses boys, and will be signed/stamped on the bottom, obviously, and I’m sure it doesn’t matter to them, but wanted it to look nice. I may just go Steve’s route with a real signature and date with a sharpie. 

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