rkrueger

X-base "rustic" dining table design help

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Overlapping tenons would probably work. Not sure how you'd drawn bore them with the angled legs, though. Once the tenons are glued in you, should have plenty of strength to pull the whole thing together with the wedges on the ends.

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Don't mean to keep putting this table on so much but it's looks just like what your doing. This was long grained pine from a hardwood dealer in NC. I paid 2.50 a bf and it was about 350 dollars all together. I have the Sketchup for it if you need it or have any questions about it. The top is just under 2" thick and 8' by 40"

Walnut would be astronomical at about 4 times the price where I am at and that's not including the waste from removing the sapwood.

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23 hours ago, Dknapp34 said:

Overlapping tenons would probably work. Not sure how you'd drawn bore them with the angled legs, though. Once the tenons are glued in you, should have plenty of strength to pull the whole thing together with the wedges on the ends.

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Yes, but if I glued it, I wouldn't be able to take it apart which means it would never leave this house if we move. With the last design I posted, it could be knocked down which is what I would need to 1) get it into the house, 2) get it out if we moved.

 

4 hours ago, Jason Hotze said:

Don't mean to keep putting this table on so much but it's looks just like what your doing. This was long grained pine from a hardwood dealer in NC. I paid 2.50 a bf and it was about 350 dollars all together. I have the Sketchup for it if you need it or have any questions about it. The top is just under 2" thick and 8' by 40"

Walnut would be astronomical at about 4 times the price where I am at and that's not including the waste from removing the sapwood.

 

Sure, I'd love to take a look at the sktechup file.  So your table is 8' long and you're only using two bases. It looks pretty sturdy with only two. Would I be able to get away with only 2 bases for 9' long if I'm using 2" thick boards for the top?  If I could then that would solve my problem of how to get the trestle joined and through the center base.

How did you join those cross beams in the bases?

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I think 9 ft would be fine with two bases and much simpler. I had 14 inches of hangover on the ends to accommodate a person sitting on the ends. If you did 17 ish of over hang you'd basically make up the difference in the middle.

The cross beams are simple screwed in to the main post with a dowel plug covering them up. They weren't structural at all and cutting 16 angled tenons and 16 mortise's did not sound like fun to me.

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I can't put the Sketchup on this forum from my phone so if you have an email I can send it to you. Also have a bunch of pictures from the build process if your interested.

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I too was in your shoes with the wife and waiting a new dining room table once we moved into our new house.  I never made any kind of furniture but always wanted to try.  My wife too wanted the rustic look and the pictures below is what she got.  The top is 3/4" walnut with 1-1/2" edge all knots and imperfections epoxied and sanded smooth.image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegthe base is 2-1/2" x3-1/2" poplar.image.jpegimage.jpegTop was finished with Waterlox and the base is just satin lacquer.  All the wood was bought for $110.  It didn't turn out bad for never building any furniture.  

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52 minutes ago, DAROTZ said:

 It did turn out bad for never building any furniture.  

I disagree, I think it turned out rather nice. Thanks for sharing

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