Woodworking design - opinions required please

[StuffiMade]

Ok, so i am thinking about making a shooting board, for the Veritas shooting plane. I have done some research and found the features i like on shooting boards, i want to combine all of these features into one board, rather than two (if can).

The shooting board would have one side for 90 degree edges and an add-on for mitres. The bench hook could be used in the vice or against the edge of the bench, as the direction of planing would suit this.

The other side of the shooting board would be for 45 degree edges and compound mitres. The plane would shoot in the opposite direction and the bench hook would be held in the vice allowing for use at one end of my bench.

Here are some plans i have drawn up, do you see an issues in my designs? I only plan to use this for stock up to 30 mm thick (1 1/4 inches).

 

thanks Geoff!

[h3nry]

One problem I can see with it, is that you have to be careful that the supports for your mitre shoot on the left don't limit the maximum width of board you want to shoot with the 45° attachment on the right ...

excuse my crude diagram....

p.s. I expect you will end up regretting not making it big enough to shoot 8/4 stock.

[gee-dub]

Agree with h3nry; I would have clearance for the maximum the blade will cut.  I will add that the ramping feature adds little to no value for this plane.  If you plan to also shoot with another plane, carry on ;-)

[shaneymack]

You could build one like Tico Vogts super chute. He has an optional 45° block for mitres and a donkey's ear for long mitres. I got the Veritas shooting plane for fathers day and I will be making a new multi function shooting board as well.

http://www.ticovogt.com/?page_id=1605

Shannon Rodgers did a review on it.

http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/super-chute/

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

[TerryMcK]

+1 on H3nry's comment.

I also think that the walnut guide edge is not necessary. It may expand slightly (think humidity) and cause the plane to jam. Also it limits you to only using that one particular plane. I use several different planes on my shooting board (whatever is close by including block planes) .

The shooting board design may also be over engineered. Three boards, a bit of scrap for a right angle stop and a cleat underneath to clamp in the vice has worked fine for me for years. A right angle drafting triangle works great on this rig for doing mitres too. I can't see the other end getting much use in planing long mitres but that is me. Of course it maybe suits your workflow and that's why you've designed it in.

The other thing you can consider is putting a rubber door stop at the opposite end to limit plane travel before the blade shoots over the edge of the board to be planed. It may take a little bit of setting up to get the perfect position. That will stop the inevitable break out when the blade goes over the unsupported end. Plane to hit the stop then flip the board over, do it again to remove the little nib and you end up with a perfect line without any breakout. You can always remove the rubber stop quickly with a screwdriver too.

[StuffiMade]

Thank you chaps!, great advice and insight, you have all made me rethink! It certainly shows what experience you all have, and my lack of it, but i really appreciate your time in saving me some mistakes here! I hadn't even thought about the point h3nry made, so obvious now you have pointed it out :). Some other great advice too. I do love the Tico Vogts super chute, had not seen that before. Don't think i can stretch to afford that, but certainly great inspiration!

Many thanks! Geoff 

 

[sonaj48736]

On 7/6/2016 at 7:10 PM, TerryMcK said:

+1 on H3nry's comment.

I also think that the walnut guide edge is not necessary. It may expand slightly (think humidity) and cause the plane to jam. Also it limits you to only using that one particular plane. I use several different planes on my shooting board (whatever is close by including block planes) .

The shooting board design may also be over engineered. Three boards, a bit of scrap for a right angle stop and a cleat underneath to clamp in the vice has worked fine for me for years. A right angle drafting triangle works great on this rig for doing mitres too. I can't see the other end getting much use in planing long mitres but that is me. Of course it maybe suits your workflow and that's why you've designed it in.

The other thing you can consider is putting a rubber door stop at the opposite end to limit plane travel before the blade shoots over the edge of the board to be planed. It may take a little bit of setting up to get the perfect position. That will stop the inevitable break out when the blade goes over the unsupported end. Plane to hit the stop then flip the board over, do it again to remove the little nib and you end up with a perfect line without any breakout. You can always remove the rubber stop quickly with a screwdriver too. 

The other thing you can consider is putting a rubber door stop at the opposite end to limit plane travel before the blade shoots over the edge of the board to be planed. It may take a little bit of setting up to get the perfect position. That will stop the inevitable break out when the blade goes over the unsupported end. Plane to hit the stop then flip the board over, do it again to remove the little nib and you end up with a perfect line without any breakout. You can always remove the rubber stop quickly with a screwdriver too. Hydrogen Executor

Thanks For That