Zen

Warped Door on a Wardrobe

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I'm new here and need some help.  My wife and I bought a reproduction--although old--of a French wardrobe.  We believe it was made in the Philippines.  One of the doors is twisted.  Does anyone have a recommendation on how to correct the twist in the door so it closes equally?

Thanks for helping.

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Pictures would help. You could try shimming one leg at a time and see if that has an affect. You could also check all the hinge screws, a loose hinge could be the problem. If it was stored in a damp basement moisture can contribute to wood warping and twisting.

I have used some powerful magnets to hold a warped door shut. You have to be careful with high power magnets and they aren't cheap either.

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Thanks wdwerker!  Here is a pic of the offending door on the wardrobe.  I am going to try the shimming but I'm afraid the door is just twisted.  I will let you know but if you have any more ideas on a permanent fix, let me know.

Wardrobe.JPG

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You could try some cleats on the back side of the door. Draw slowly over time or weigh the door down flat before installing. That is a beautiful piece worthy of some effort. 

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As C said, that piece needs to be saved it's beautiful!  Sometimes, a little moisture and weight, and a warm space will straighten a warp, but care must be taken. You want this piece to line back up almost perfectly!

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C:  When you say "try some cleats," what do you mean?  Thank you all for the advise.  It is nice, isn't it?  All hand carved.

Zen

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https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/TabletopsFlat.pdf

Rather than describe, I will start with this link. It shows a bit of what you are asking with graphics. Don't be afraid to ask about what is unclear. Cleats in wide boards need elongated holes. I see that addressed in the breadboard ends but don't see it elsewhere with a quick scan. I am not saying cleats are a guarantee. You are not dealing with a cup as much as a twist. You have a sticky situation. 

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It does look like a nice piece.Im thinking the fix is going to be out of your reach.Your time will be better spent looking In your area for a craftsman that is willing to offer his or her services.

Good luck

 

Aj

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Please read the safety info on K & J Magnetics website and handle any powerful magnets with care. 

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BX082CS-P&cat=173

The link is to a pair of countersunk magnets. Pilot your screw holes carefully and don't drive the screws with a cordless drill. Hand tighten the screws carefully, over tightening the screws can crack the magnet. Broken or cracked magnet pieces are razor sharp !

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4 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Please read the safety info on K & J Magnetics website and handle any powerful magnets with care. 

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BX082CS-P&cat=173

The link is to a pair of countersunk magnets. Pilot your screw holes carefully and don't drive the screws with a cordless drill. Hand tighten the screws carefully, over tightening the screws can crack the magnet. Broken or cracked magnet pieces are razor sharp !

A few years ago I got some rare earth magnets from Lee Valley & within a half hour of getting them home, my 2 sons & I all had blood blisters on our fingers from getting pinched by them. They can snap together with a LOT of force.

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I have one large & very powerful magnet with a pull force well over 100 lbs. You have to read  and sign an agreement that you understand the dangers before they will ship it to you. Pinched fingers and possibly broken bones can happen so you have to use precautions.

Ball shaped magnets are very useful for a woodworker. They can find the nails or screws beneath plaster or drywall.  You can use them to find the nails in a hardwood floor by rolling the magnet along each crack. If you are using a brad nailer that will still fire after it runs out of nails it's easy to find the last nail so you can fix the missing spots. I keep a couple 3/8" dia ball magnets with me most of the time.

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Thanks Steve and everyone else.  I wondered about using a magnet and was concerned that I wouldn't be able to open the door if it was strong enough to take care of the twist.  I do need to check the hinges.  I have new ones on this side of the wardrobe.  The hinges are the kind that are slipped into a slot in the wardrobe frame and door frame.

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I would put a latch on the inside of the upper part of the warped door to hold it closed. You would open the other door first and then reach inside and unlatch it to open the warped door.

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12 hours ago, Firehawk said:

I would put a latch on the inside of the upper part of the warped door to hold it closed. You would open the other door first and then reach inside and unlatch it to open the warped door.

Great idea...except the warped door holds the other door closed.  I sure wish I could do this.  Going to take a look at the hinges.  They are reproduction hinges where a tab is inserted into the frame and the door.  I haven't seen this before.  They may be binding.

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How thick are the doors? I was thinking you might be able to put euro hinges on the warped door to adjust it to improve how it closes.  You could leave the current hinges on and disconnect them from the cabinet.

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