Purchasing a Jet 20" Planer


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7 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

seen, but not used. Without the paint, i would be really hard pressed to identify the difference between the two machines

I wouldn't be surprised if the 2 companies used the exact same designs and parts for most machines. But...The difference is always in the quality control.

That said, I have had a cheaper planer and I think planers are a pretty simple design, and even the cheap ones tend to work really well.  I personally probably won't upgrade my planer until I've upgraded a few other things first, namely the jointer. Lots more to go wrong there.

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14 hours ago, Mike. said:

sounds like you need a drum sander, not a planer.  

Could be.....I want to do some glue ups using 3/4 stock and end up with  1/2" pizza peels. I could plane the 3/4 down to 5/8 or less, glue up, and then go through a drum sander?

Also, I'm making cutting boards. Glue up 6/4 and I want to end up with around 5/4. It seems to me that a planer would make that final pass nice leveling everything.  I have a Dewalt 735 but I'm game if a drum sander would work for what I'm after. Weigh in.

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Is both an option? I prefer my planer over my DS whenever possible. At a certain point the DS is a necessary evil. 20"+ panels, tearout prone grain, thin stuff, end grain, cross grain, etc. My ideal method is 1/16" pass through the planer to level/flatten and then take the lightest cut at 150grit on the DS to get it ready for ROS and finish. Drum sanders are painfully slow, and small ones have to be even more painful. 1/16" is asking a lot of a DS, or a lot of your time in the form of 3-4 passes per face. My glueups without dominoes are almost always out a 1/16", so that is a 1/16 on top and the same on the bottom. 

 

It is a good point, however, a drum sander probably would serve you better than stepping up to a big planer. The supermax and powermatic sanders are a heck of a lot less than a good 20" byrd too!

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4 hours ago, tim0625 said:

Also, I'm making cutting boards. Glue up 6/4 and I want to end up with around 5/4. It seems to me that a planer would make that final pass nice leveling everything. 

You really don't want to send end grain through the planer.  A few people say they have had success doing it but in general it  is a disaster waiting to happen and the drum sander does a great job of leveling.  It is also better if you have had to epoxy and cracks or gaps in your work.

And something like the SuperMax 19-38 drum sander is almost half the price of some of the planers mentioned here.

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  • 1 month later...
On 1/5/2017 at 5:32 PM, andrew-in-austin said:

Comparison chart with country of origin:

067.jpg

Not sure I get why the G0454Z which is made in Taiwan is $2200 while the G0454ZW which is supposedly made in China is more at $2600.  The G0454Z is "not available for immediate shipment" but it does not indicate they will no longer make or sell them.  $2200 for a 20" spiral cutterhead planer is a steal.

Seems even Grizzly doesn't know for sure. lol  I have been looking at the 454Z, 454ZW, and 1033X and the spec sheets on both of the 454s say China.  Tech support did tell me that the W was from a different manufacturer.  No idea which is better or worse though.  The knurled outfeed roller on the W has me concerned about the finish off of the machine however. Seems like the 454Z might be the better path.

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i have my smaller planers on regular 3 and 4 inch casters with urethane wheels.  They all swivel, and each has a lock.  Since the planer grabs the piece and pulls it through, it doesn't make much difference that it's not 100% fixed in place.

That way, it's way easier to move around, including on and off the trailer.  Mobile bases don't move around anything like as easily.

When we run a stack of pieces that need multiple passes, rather than moving all the pieces back and forth, we just spin the planer around between passes.  It's little trouble to change the 10' flexible 6" DC hose from one position to the other.

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