brianb Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Hi All, I have a twofold question. First is how to describe a butcher block style counter-top, and the second is advice on how to construct it. I’m talking about the style where boards are cut to various lengths then ripped and glued up with edge grain sticking up. (Pictured below) Boos and some of the other manufacturers refer to this a “Blended” grain, but I can’t seem to find any info on this in the woodworking world. My second questions is that I’ve made a few cutting boards this way with some success. Now I want to glue up a tabletop using this method, but was wondering about using a finish nailer, instead of clamping a few strips togther at a time. Is this a bad idea for any reason? I’ll need to make sure I avoid any areas that will be cut, and the outside strips will need to be clamped, but is there any reason to think I can’t put 2-3 finish nails in each strip to speed up the process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 welcome to the forum brian, first, how big is the countertop going to be, width, length? and how thick are you planning to make it? you will want to assemble it on something that is flat and the length and width of your countertop, unless you have access to a wide planer or sander you will want to keep the pieces as flat as possible to reduce your sanding time and effort. you could nail them i suppose but i think biscuits or a domino would be a better option as long as you keep track of where they are so none are exposed when you cut it. you're going to want to use clamps and cauls to keep it flat and to pull the pieces together , i don't think finish nails will do that for you. do it in sections as that would be a large glue up to handle all at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianb Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Hey Tree SLayer, Thansk for the response! The table top is about 32"x46" and will be 1.75"-2" thick. My plan is to build it in 3 to 4 sections 8 to10" wide. Plane those separately. then glue them all together to form the final piece. As for the assembly, I do have a table that is pretty flat, but needs to be reinforced before doing this. My thoughts with the finish nails was to clamp each piece into position with glue, then put 2-3 finish nails to hold the piece remove the clamp and move to the next piece. My hope is that this will hold it tight enough to not move, once it's cauled/clamped into position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 sounds like it might work, pre-drill for the nails, countersink them, move to the next piece, do whatever size section you can handle and clamp it all up, as the glue dries it could expand the joints and remember most glues have anywhere from 10 minutes to a half hour before they begin to set, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianb Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I think we have a disconnect here By finish nails, I meant a finish nail gun. As for the glue, I learned my lesson when I did my first block and use the extended set Titebond, which has worked so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 It sounds like a challenging project, but my concern would be the end to end joints in your random length pieces. All of the commercial butcher block counters/tables that I have seen cut a finger joint to join end to end to create a strong joint. While I am sure a commercial shop has an easier way to cut those joints, I have tried to do it on my router table and failed miserably. I used a bit similar to this. (borrowed from the web) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I wouldn't like the nails in the finished project and really, you should be able to glue up a panel 10"x46" fairly quickly using the techniques Marc shows in his cutting board video. Cauls will keep you close to flat. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianb Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Hey Barron, Thanks for the input. Curious if your concern with the nails is structural or aesthetic? I ask because my plan would be to clamp and glue the outermost rows which would cover up the nail holes on the inner pieces. Just Bob, I'm not as worried about the strength of the end to end joint seeing as it will be sandwiched between two face grain to face grain joints 12"-18" long. I'm more concerned about making that joint fit as well as possible. Also, my table-saw doesn't hold a perfectly straight edge for very long after tuning (difference is only visible when two pieces are laid end to end, thus doubling the error). I've found that I can flip flop the pieces and they match perfectly and are too small to see that the angle is off slightly. I included an image outlining this, but the angle in it is exaggerated. In terms of workflow, I'm thinking trying to cut, fingerjoint then glue up these pieces wouldn't be worth the added strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 2 hours ago, brianb said: I'm not as worried about the strength of the end to end joint seeing as it will be sandwiched between two face grain to face grain joints 12"-18" long. I get that, and maybe strength is the wrong term. Titebond will be sucked into the end grain and the bond itself will be weak at those places. Whether that affects the overall strength I don't know. It would concern me. Plus you are a better man than me, if my table saw continually failed to maintain square I would bury it in the back yard with extreme malice 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 For better end grain gluing, you can apply a generous layer to each end & let it absorb for several minutes, even drying a little. Then apply more glue & clamp. Makes it a little stronger, but still nowhere near as strong as a long grain glue up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 @drzaius is right on, i use a wash of thinned Titebond 2 on all the picture frame mitered ends and on end grain where necessary, it dries in minutes and seals the pores, oak, especially red really soakes it in, not so much for other woods like cherry and denser woods but it does soak in some. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianb Posted January 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Hey All, Thanks everyone for the advice. @treeslayer I wound up doing the wash coat and it's worked so far for the end grain, thanks! I did elect to avoid the finish nails, instead i'm just gluing 3 strips at a time so I can watch the joints closely. I'm about 1/2 way done and included a pic below. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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