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Seth Clayton

Bench dog holes

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Perfectly drilled holes are important for square and alignment.

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For what application? I understand the concept in theory, but I've never used something like this so I'm struggling to picture their use

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We're talking round holes here . . . If you use your dog holes like the holes in Festool's MFT they become a reference point / edge for you.  Depending on the work you do this can be quite handy. 

MFT Top.JPG

If you are using them like more traditional dog holes, vertical alignment is more important than linear alignment.  You want your dogs standing perpendicular to your benchtop.  This way any angle added to the dog or any gizmos that use dog holes will be in the position you planned on.

I know people who simply drill the hole wherever they find they need one.  I use a pattern that minimizes my vise jaw movement. 

TNNW (65).jpg

For planing long stock a row across the front edge of the top is often all that is used. 

Traditional Top.JPG

The spacing depends on what you do with them.

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If you're building a Paulk bench, I guess a strict pattern of well drilled holes is important, since you will be using a lot of dog hole mounted hardware to clamp and align your workpiece.

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I used this set up when I did my dog holes.  I used the drill bit not the forstner bit.  I think with the forstner bit there is still a chance of going at some what of an angle once the business end gets past the bushing.  This set up gives you nice drill press type perpendicular holes with a hand held drill motor

Dog Hole Bit & Bushing

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18 minutes ago, Chet K said:

I used this set up when I did my dog holes.  I used the drill bit not the forstner bit.  I think with the forstner bit there is still a chance of going at some what of an angle once the business end gets past the bushing.  This set up gives you nice drill press type perpendicular holes with a hand held drill motor

Dog Hole Bit & Bushing

I used this kit as well. Not the cheapest route but after all the time and money invested in my bench it was well worth it to me. Made the process super easy and great results.

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I bought a 3/4" spiral router bit.  At the time I bought it they are about $35.  I notice they are $47 now so the kit isn't that out of line.  The router bit can be used for other things but, how often you need a 3/4" upcut spiral will determine the value of that.  I have never used it for anything else (???).

The plunge router allows you to make very vertical holes but, my top is 3" thick so I had to finish them with something else anyway.  On thinner tops they make quick work of it.

 

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35 minutes ago, gee-dub said:

I bought a 3/4" spiral router bit.  At the time I bought it they are about $35.  I notice they are $47 now so the kit isn't that out of line.  The router bit can be used for other things but, how often you need a 3/4" upcut spiral will determine the value of that.  I have never used it for anything else (???).

The plunge router allows you to make very vertical holes but, my top is 3" thick so I had to finish them with something else anyway.  On thinner tops they make quick work of it.

 

I definitely would have used a plunge router but at the time I didn't even own one. :blink:  So at the time this was the cost effective solution.  Now I would go gee-dub's route

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Going to ask one of those proverbial stupid questions...

Assuming I could even get a 3/4" forstner to safely mount in the router, would that work, or would I be asking for trouble?

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Going to ask one of those proverbial stupid questions...

Assuming I could even get a 3/4" forstner to safely mount in the router, would that work, or would I be asking for trouble?

Most likely no, they have maximum speed ratings. You can probably look that up for your forstner bit online to compare with your router RPMs to be sure.

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Reading this thread, I was thinking about doing what Steve just said. Although I was going to to use a guide bushing and a template with multiple hole to speed the process. But I think Steve's way might produce more accurate spacing.

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Reading this thread, I was thinking about doing what Steve just said. Although I was going to to use a guide bushing and a template with multiple hole to speed the process. But I think Steve's way might produce more accurate spacing.

Sorry, but who's Steve?

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14 minutes ago, Seth Clayton said:

Sorry, but who's Steve?

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I don't know either but, it is handy when people refer to people by the names they have chosen here.

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Guest SuckMySmile
On 2/8/2017 at 11:57 AM, pkinneb said:

I used this kit as well. Not the cheapest route but after all the time and money invested in my bench it was well worth it to me. Made the process super easy and great results.

When I hit that link it takes me to a 10$ bushing. What else did you use considering you said it wasn’t the “cheapest.” Is there more to the jig than the bushing? I’m trying to do some dog holes currently and was looking to find a jig. 
Thanks!

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14 minutes ago, Guest SuckMySmile said:

When I hit that link it takes me to a 10$ bushing. What else did you use considering you said it wasn’t the “cheapest.” Is there more to the jig than the bushing? I’m trying to do some dog holes currently and was looking to find a jig. 
Thanks!

Keep scrolling. The bit is under the bushing in the page. 

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Yea, you have to scroll down for the bits.  Make sure you are ordering the bit for the bushing you want, they come in inch and millimeter.

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You can take a scrap of 2x material, joint and plane both sides, then cut two pieces to about 12” and glue one on top of the other. Take this to your drill press and drill a hole in the middle, the size of your dog hole and use this as a guide. 

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