chrisphr

Table saw extension router cabinet

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Nice. Will the table still be located in the extension wing? One of my next shop projects will be to build a table & cabinet that will take the place of the old extension wing

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Nice. Will the table still be located in the extension wing? One of my next shop projects will be to build a table & cabinet that will take the place of the old extension wing

Yes, that is the intended design. Right now I am thinking the top will fasten between table saw rails and the cabinet will be fitted to the top from below, micro adjusted using the cabinet levelers, but not actually attached to the top. We'll see how it goes.

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Been an intense few weeks at work, but did manage some time in the shop. The top is held in place by gravity with the help of some guide blocks that I champhered the edges to help locate the top easier. Installed these with some glue and brad nails with the cabinet upside down.

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Trimmed out the plywood edges with cherry scrap and prepared some new laminate MDF, this time in red, for the drawer fronts and on/off switch trim. Used an extra deep old work plastic box which worked but had to modify slightly so the faceplate would install flush.

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The kreg levelers didn't match up to the fastening holes on the bench dog router plate so jimmy rigged some more mdf to solve the problem, worked remarkably well.

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Added some finish to the cherry trim and inside of the cabinet. Used the levelers to position the top flush with the table saw and fastened in place with the help of a Vix bit to keep the fastener centered and the top flush. Set the router lift in place to check the fit... like a glove.

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Looking great!  

Those heavy duty old work electrical boxes are my favorite.  I have used them in both old and new work for as long as they have been available.  When I was building new houses, I ran the wires and didn't put them in boxes for rough-in.  Whatever went on the wall had the box installed, and the wires pulled into the box as the wall covering went up.  I broke out the little wire keeping fingers with needle nose pliers, and caulked the hole around the wire with fireproof caulking.  The back of the box was sealed around the edge with construction adhesive.  On exterior walls that gave an airtight seal.  On interior walls, it just gave a stronger structure than the little flop-out holders.  I never met an Inspector that didn't like my system.  Wires were pulled in a groove in the top center of the wall bottom plate, to keep it out of the way of insulation.

I like the way you left the holes for the levelers.  It's worthy of copying for a cabinet I need to make for a sink that will get moved around some for sharpening, and regular sink use stuff.

Edited to add:  I just ordered these.  I don't know if you have to manually tighten the locknut after the height is adjusted, but if requires that, I'll just TIG weld a spot on the side of a nylock nut to replace whatever their loose nut is, so I don't have to do that.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Wide-Foot/dp/B0037MK8XC/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5FZKVJNYG95B41SZG4GB

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Coming along great.  My router table has been an extension of my tablesaw work surface since the first version that was just a wing.  I have become very used to having that extra surface for both machines.  My table is to the left of the saw blade and the router table's miter slot is the same distance from the bit as the saw's miter slot is from the blade.  This makes using the same jig on both machines pretty straight forward. 

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I use threaded inserts in the mating edge of the router table top and tablesaw wing to bolt the machines together and align the surfaces. Your table is looking good.  It is always fun to finally build "version 2" incorporating all the things you learned from "version 1".

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Really looking nice. Debating whether to do this for my space or just build a separate unit. I like the storage that you have in there also!

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Looking great!  

Those heavy duty old work electrical boxes are my favorite.  

 

.

Edited to add:  I just ordered these.  I don't know if you have to manually tighten the locknut after the height is adjusted, but if requires that, I'll just TIG weld a spot on the side of a nylock nut to replace whatever their loose nut is, so I don't have to do that.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Wide-Foot/dp/B0037MK8XC/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5FZKVJNYG95B41SZG4GB

 

Cool system with the old work boxes, never seen it done that way. I don't recall the need to tighten down a locknut, I just adjusted to height. I'll let you know if the move on me, but I suspect they'll stick where they are at.

 

 

 

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Coming along great.  My router table has been an extension of my tablesaw work surface since the first version that was just a wing.  I have become very used to having that extra surface for both machines.  My table is to the left of the saw blade and the router table's miter slot is the same distance from the bit as the saw's miter slot is from the blade.  This makes using the same jig on both machines pretty straight forward. 

5702c0f5292df_TS-Outfeed(34).jpg.0485c41f8e732718a7b3faa9311e564d.jpg

I use threaded inserts in the mating edge of the router table top and tablesaw wing to bolt the machines together and align the surfaces. Your table is looking good.  It is always fun to finally build "version 2" incorporating all the things you learned from "version 1".

Always love seeing pictures from your shop! I had ruled out putting the extension on the left because of the motor shroud, but I see you just extended from the extension... a creative solution that didn't occur to me. Oh well, there is always version 3!

 

 

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Really looking nice. Debating whether to do this for my space or just build a separate unit. I like the storage that you have in there also!

Since it has four legs with the levels, it could be used independently of the table saw. In fact, I thought if I ever get a bigger shop, I'd separate the router cabinet with maybe the only modification of remaking the top bigger.

 

 

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Alrighty, was able to get some quality woodworking time to finally hammer this out. Down to making doors and drawers. Starting with the router access door.

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Used the new router table for the first time to rabbit the inside of the door frame.

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But no dust collection... yet.

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Ok fit. Used standard butt hinges from Lowes and plexiglass for the panel. Really not sure how to estimate how many/big the the necessary air flow holes needed to be, just ran with 3 at 1".

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Installed a stop and used magnets as the latch.c971710ef0b655064211e3462e30f035.jpg

Used mdf for the bit drawers cause that is what I had.

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To make the drawers quick and easy I squared them up, tacked them together with some brad nails then plowed a domino in from the outside. Flush trim the dominos and I've got four drawers done in about an hour. Ain't pretty by good enough for shop furniture...

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Installed the drawer slides, now it is time for drawer fronts. Went with red laminate. Added a small chamfer (about the thickness of the laminate) to the fronts and a roughly 1/8th inch chamfer to the back. This second use of the new router table was with the dust collection connected. It worked like a dream.03ebe5993e53e3bed06d8340c9221f44.jpg

 

Attached the drawer fronts and calling this project complete!

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...and the sexy open drawer pic:

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